01997 Tacoma SX v6 5sp TVS1320 supercharged 300 HP! Haltech ECU, Reg Cab 800,000 Build

Thought you might be interested to see this.

The new TVS rotors are very similar to a twin screw system in that they don’t make heat like a roots does. Despite that fact the mp62 actually has a better curve than a TVS for what we want. More HP and more TQ where you want it. It only makes more power above 5500 RPM. I’d much rather have the MP62 seeing this.


Considering all the hate that the roots gets, especially from Ken Bell and Whipple, it doesnt do half bad. Interesting. I guess TRD really do a pretty good job. However I’d really like to know how a MP90 would do fitted to the 3.4.

Maybe one day someone will do that to compare it. I’d really be interested to see what would happen. You’d think that the higher CFM and cooler charge would help. But the question is how much. Doing all the calculations is one thing but a real world comparison is the only way to really know.

Here’s the link from, god forbid, a Miata forum. Neither one was aftercooled.

http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/forum/forum/miata-performance/tvs-900/2707-tvs-900-vs-mp62

 

John, just curious about your routine (if any) with the ball joints in your trucks life so far?
I had another TW member tell me I wouldn't feel anything abnormal with steering if they went, just catastrophic failure headfirst into a ditch
thanks, J
is the snow starting to melt out your way yet?

 

yes snow is finally melting,

Ball joints I replace every 100k miles regardless
Thanks

 

For those wondering the gates s/c belt #


Decided to try it , alternator was goin out so found a excuse to try it

 

I decided to check my nozzle since I have probably have 15k miles too or so.

You have to take the nozzle apart.

The screen was clean and the nozzle hole was clean,

But the rotating plunger inside the nozzle had a bunch of gummy dirt

Took a brass wire brush and cleaned the gunk off and back together.

That’s why I would inspect it every 15k miles even if everything is working fine.

 

Definitely worth doing it at least once a year i see

 

do you recall the 1st time you needed to replace the clutch, what the beginning symptoms were?
... wasn't sure of the approximate lifespan of this with a guesstimated 70% highway miles on the OEM (if that even matters)
two other vehicles I have had (bot used) needed a clutch job at around 80k miles a long time ago, those were slipping in the 5th gear, I have almost 50% more miles than that on the truck

I don't have any slippage in the higher gears (yet) just some mild stickiness in the 1st and 2nd
there is also a wee amount of lurching before everything is fully warmed up and having to come to a stop at the sign down the street in 2nd gear (seems to be worse lurching if in first and need to stop say in a parking lot at very minimal speed)

 

Typically 250k is what I get out of my clutch.
1st clutch job the clutch disc failed at 250k
2nd clutch job the clutch disc failed at 250k
3nd clutch job the throw out bearing and pilot bearing failed at 80k
Those are rounded off numbers.

Make sure you use the best quality parts for a clutch job

 

have you ever had any peculiar things going on with your A/C system?
I am trying to diagnose what might be up with mine, weird rattling on passenger side after having A/C on then turning it off
it only rattles (inside cab as far as I can tell) when I accelerate, doesn't rattle if the A/C has not been on
the ToyoTech mechanic I asked has not encountered this issue as far as he can recall
very strange!

 

Possibly the idle bearing or bracket,
I just replace mine 2 months ago

 

did the dash have to be removed?

 

No I'm talking about the belts idler tensioner in the front of the motor without you posting the sound it's hard to know what the sound you're talking about is

 

how is the conversion to power windows coming along?
any pics with the paneling off? i don't know what it looks like behind there lol
especially that door stop limiter

 

It’s on the back burner for now, ideally I want the mirrors and locks and windows all done at the same time if I decide. Maybe later but not now.

 

power mirrors as well?

 

Yes, I have 2004 power windows, just not wired up, I love the larger size and that they break away.
I will deal with those items later getting them wired up, for now once they are adjusted they stay fitted anyways

I got the new master brake cylinder and booster installed and replaced the steering column because of 1/2” play in the tilt mechanism. So that’s all good,

Next I need to get the AFR - BOOST combo guage installed (welded) this month that has been sitting on my desk for the last 6 months.

 

With the methanol, do you use high octane gas or do you use regular (around87)?

 

My engine starts to ping at about 4 pounds of boost with a 2” pulley and that’s when the methonal starts to spray.

If I ran 87 octane the motor would ping sooner so yes you still need to run 91 octane.

You don’t want the methonal spraying all the time

 

Well I’ve done a few more things to the truck So I probably need to update here.

Added new nerf bars, the chrome ones were shot,
They don’t make any reg cab nerf bars that are 52” long, So bought a set of extended cab bars
and had a welder modify the mounts to make them fit.

 

Finally got the combo boost gauge + AFR innovate psb-1 Gauge installed.

Apparently the failsafe option doesn’t work on the TRD type superchargers, but that’s ok.
It’s nice to have the combo info on tap in one gauge and being able to toggle the lead gauge info and have the secondary info on tap.