02 Double Cab V6 is overheating

So my truck started over heating recently and I'm thinking it's becuz I put some bars leak in it to stop an intake leak and I flushed it and it's still overheating and I even checked the thermostat too and it looked fine. And I almost forgot that after i checked that leak I didn't refill what coolant came out and it was running low for a week, Any suggestions?

 

Any suggestions anybody?

 

If it's not holding pressure then it's going to overheat. It could be a leaky water pump or thermostat housing under the timing cover. There are no coolant lines on the intake manifold at the front. There are is a line and line out at the throttle body and more at the rear of the engine.

 

Yeah the radiator is full and I put brand new stuff in it and it's the copper looking bars leak for the radiator and intake and it's coming from under the manifold behind the timing cover u can see it

 

Another thing is it takes time to overheat, I drive about 20 miles and then the gauge rises and when I stop I hear boiling from the coolant reservoir and at night when I'm driving home it doesn't over heat at all the gauge stays mid temp where it's suppose to b at

 

Coolant won't boil if it's holding pressure. The pressure raises the boiling temperature, so does polypropylene glycol. Fix your leaks, and you'll likely fix your overheating issue.

 

The leak never affected anything besides leaking a bit and it was until after I put that damn stop leak bars leak thing in, is where it it started overheating, maybe the thermostat isn't opening up?

I can't see it leaking but I see the coolant dried up in that area and I'll load a pic here n a bit but the water pump is pretty much brand new becuz I changed the timing belt and water pump and everything back in may.

 

Yeah it would be the intake manifold but I guess I'm more worried about the overheating becuz it's my daily driver and I need it to go everywhere

 

On the v6, the waterpump is behind that timing belt cover. It may be overheating now, but the waterpump leak is equally important. Do you know when the waterpump was last changed? At what mileage?

My guess is that leak sealer crap you added has clogged one or more smaller internal coolant passages in the engine block. The lack of good coolant flow is causing your overheating issue. FWIW, those types of fixes wont stop a waterpump coolant leak.

The pump needs to be replaced. A worn out waterpump can also cause poor coolant flow.

 

I would get this fixed ASAP, bring it to a shop tomorrow. overheating every time you drive is doing damage thats going to turn into more than just a water pump replacement, you may be looking at warped heads pretty soon, or a cracked block and thats a much more costly repair.

 

Agreed, any leak needs to be addressed pronto. If it's not leaking and it still overheats/boils replace your radiator cap and your thermostat. "Checking" or looking at the thermostat won't tell you anything. You will need to put it in a pan of water on the oven and crank the heat and see what the temp is when it opens. Or just buy one for 20 bucks or so. OEM recommended, jiggle valve down. If your radiator cap is bad it won't hold pressure and you could boil your coolant. (A liquid under pressure has a higher boiling point.) Also a cheap fix. Water pumps are 60 bucks or so plus the labor.

That stop leak crap is just that....crap, or at the very least a last ditch to get you home on the road in an emergency. It is meant for pinhole leaks in the radiator, not a leaky gasket or split hose. Take your truck to a shop and be sure you didn't clog the system with it.

 

The last time the water pump was changed was in May this year with 181,000 so it's pretty much brand new and yes I'm thinking it clogged some passages and I flushed it like 4 times thru the radiator on the top and bottom then thru the top hose to the bottom hose where the thermostat is water came thru. When I flushed it thru the radiator all that crap(stop leak) came poring out.

 

Yeah bro that's what I'm trying to do by process of elimination I flushed the radiator like 4 or 5 times and I flushed it thru the engine about the same amount, the water came out clear, I put a new thermostat in, it actually almost did the trick it didn't hit the red it rose to about 3/4 but never went up anymore. And maybe it could b the fan clutch too it's not spinning as fast as it could becuz it overheats during the day but not at night so to me it looks like it's not getting enough cool air to the engine?

 

I agree I have been but have yet to pinpoint the leak which sucks becuz I see dried coolant under the intake manifold and leaks down over the thermostat housing lower hose area and I did just replace the thermostat it did kind of help it didn't quite get as hot as it did but now just figuring out what else I could do to just have it run cool becuz it runs cool at night which means cooler air and something else isn't running right to help it cool down during the day, I told WinSlow939 it could b the fan clutch not spinning as fast as it could, it could possibly b worn out?

 

Manny, I think it awesome your trying to figure this out, don't get me wrong. I just don't want you to think you can keep driving it around waiting to see what happens, and not have bad consequences. You can flush the system a billion times, but it ain't doing shit unless thats the issue, which it isn't by the sound of it. You have to get that water pump replaced, and soon. It's not an easy job for a weekend DIY, although I'm not saying its impossible. As long as you have a cooling fan on the front of your engine, your getting enough air, regardless of clutch. the fan is crank driven, unless your engine is seized that babies working, forget that being an issue. A shop will be able to pin point the leak/leaks or rad issue you got going on in an hour or less. IMHO, at this point thats completely worth your time/money. Aluminum heads hate high stress heat. I have a gauge in my truck that measures coolant temp and replaced my stock crank-driven fan with an electric unit. When I was setting up the unit, you let the coolant temp climb to a desired temp., then lock it in to kick on at that temp. Its amazing how hot that coolant gets when it climbs beyond the middle mark on the cluster gauge. I would be shitting my pants if it ever got to the red zone!

Please please don't put snake oil "repair" shit in your truck ever..not even for emergencies, thats what AAA/ tow truck is for. GL man!

 

Ah, I missed this post. Who did the install? Was an OEM Toyota water pump put in? I doubt "all" the stop leak came out, I'm mean that shit is supposed to fill leaks and stay put, obviously they put some kinda of chemical that keeps it from being "flushed" out, otherwise it couldn't have even hit the shelves, right?

My recommendation is to have your cooling system pressure tested, that should solve wheres it's leaking. Even a brand new water pump will leak if installed incorrectly, happens all the time.

 

I did the install I did the entire timing belt, tensioners, water pump, etc. That needed to b changed and I put OEM everything in it, that damn stop leak was suppose to b minor for now I read good reviews on it and never again. But I checked the water pump like a month ago thinking that was leaking but I torqued it to the specifications and made sure no leaks around it and that's when I noticed it coming from the top under the intake manifold but I'll get a pressure check for sure and as for the stop leak crap I noticed that copper looking shit(stop leak) still creeping around like it's helping, and as for the fan I'm not saying the crank helping it spin is bad I'm saying the actual fan clutch is maybe worn to where it isn't catching anymore all the time like it's suppose to?