02 Tacoma doublecab 3-Link on FJ80 axles

will do. I dont know how old my cases are I bought them a couple years ago off a guy. They looked new, what does the oiling setup look like?

yeah my crawler and the rear case are both 2.28, with an auto I didn't feel like having to put it in neutral every time I want to stop. If I'm right that my first gear is 2.804 according to marlin I'm at 71:1 which im not going to complain about

 

You can stop the truck with a 4.7 crawler. Most of the times you'll just use the crawler anyway. It's only when your in super technical situations that you would use both case's

 

If after awhile I decide that its not low enough then I could always clearance the case and run 4.7's, I'm so used to a single chain drive case that the duals will be a vast improvement. Moms BF and my buddy both have 4.7's in their 85's the torque is hilarious. There's been some times in steep declines where I would have loved to have it as an engine brake

 

No ive been to red lake twice and coyote once, because my uncle broke a cv on the gatekeeper to coyote on the second trip, he thought i brought a spare cv and I thought he did haha. But i hiked to coyote the second night (which was a bad idea for many reasons)

 

no just looked it up though seems fun probably rather run a longer trail

 

Wyatt's right. Most of the time you won't be in double-low - though it is nice to have.

I think you'll be fine with the standard gearing in the cases...especially true with an auto.

BTW, if you want "real" twin sticks, you should go with a Dana300 or Atlas eventually. Being able to run front/rear independently is awesome You'll be surprised how useful the "front digs" option is when trying to turn in a tight corner. Just disengage the rear drive line - so that the rear tires stop pushing the truck forward while you try to turn - and allow the front tires to to both pull & turn. Pretty cool stuff.

 

Ordered the rad designs triple sticks today, should be here in 10 days, also bought mandataco's(from ttora) old driveshaft thats 8.5" inches shorter so hopefully I'll have the crawler in before christmas. Today I separated the cases and got the rear case set up for the twin sticks, by removing the interlink pin. Pics to follow still working on it.

 

Been lurking on this thread for a bit and thought I'd pipe up and give you props on just going for it. Nice man!

A couple years ago, I had a big pile of parts getting ready to do similar on my 2002 Tacoma, but was scheming a way to utilize as much of the 80 series front suspension as possible: radius arms, standard coils and shocks, etc etc, (thepinktaco on pirate did similar to this and I've seen a couple 3rd Gen runners done this way over the years) and then use the 3.4 T-100 auto chain case (yes it bolts right up with the corresponding T100 tail housing) off the back of my stock auto--because I am a Toyota purist, but also for ease of parts replacement and my truck was not going to be a rock-crawler, just a moderate off-roader and I want to keep it low with 33s or max 35s. I had nearly everything stock piled like you and just hadn't worked up the balls to make a move on it. (I'm also not a pro-fabricator, but a helluva wrencher so I also feel ya on the debate of whether or not to pay somebody to do it, while also wanting to help out as much as possible). I then bought a BJ74 Land Cruiser imported from Japan (I'm a cruiser guy so I'm also with ya on your dream truck you posted on the first page... ) and so I thought to hell with the Tacoma and sold it off along with a ton of the parts. Fast-forward 2.5 years or so and the BJ74 was not working out for what I needed in a daily driver and weekend warrior so I sold it off and bought a 2003 Tacoma....and this shitty IFS front end...every bushing wearing out...cv boots tearing....things clunking around non-stop--I am *this* close to starting the parts gathering up again for the 80 series axle project... LOL! I never could get rid of *all* the parts I stock piled so I already have a few things ready to go... haha I guess good (or bad) thing for me right this moment is I dont have a ton of money to splurge on it right now...but that will all change in the spring with tax return and annual bonus... but I also can't stand this weak little 3.4L V6... lol I am going to need a supercharger at the very least... perhaps a 1UZ or 2UZ swap even though...

Anyway, stoked on your build and looking forward to seeing what you do and how it turns out!

 

Thanks for the nice words, I saw pinktacos build on pirate several years ago when I had searched for guys that had run the full floater in the back. Yeah the 3.slow is going to be an issue after I get done with the build, a guy in Canada put a D4D out of a hilux in his double cab with cruiser axles. Im only running 295/75/16's right now, but when I go to 35's eventually im sure its going to suck.

 

Had to split the cases today to get the interlink pin out in preparation for the triple sticks






hardest part was getting the shift rod out, punching out the roll pin was easy and getting the spring and detent ball out was easy.



All that work to get to this little pin



I had bought some hd springs awhile to see how they were. Moms BF's t-case popped out of gear while going down lions back of all places a couple years ago, I guess it was because of the way that Advance adapters used to cut their 4.7 gearsets. My shifters have real positive engagement to begin with, but I tried the new ones, it practically took my body weight (190lbs) to overcome the spring tension and get it to shift. so I took them right back out and put the stockers in and its fine, lesson learned.



Here it is back "together" I left the 6 14mm nuts between the rear case and the MC07 hand tight because I either need to get a new gasket or rtv it (or maybe a combination of both). I haven't drilled out the adapter yet or really planned that attack out.

 

Whys that? i have had anti seize on mine for close to 80k and they are fine. i tried grease, including some super exensive moly grease they use on turbine shafts, and it all flung off into the case, anti seize is the only thing that sticks.

Matter of fact, your the dude that told me to use antiseize way back when....

 

The ones that Mike found that were fretting were using either anti seize or nothing. When we went to use Marine grease we found it stopped all the fretting
If yours is doing fine with it don't stop using it. some people dont' have any issues at all with out using anythinng. And then there are those that use anti seize and have issues. Keep doing what your doing. It's working for you.

 

Crazy, i believe the guys at marlin confirmed to use anti sieze as well after i fretted out my last tcase input (2008). Im not changing anything, i just change my fluid evrey 6months and if it starts coming out reddish, out they come. Been fine for 8yrs now, probibly because i have a spare input and coupler in my tool box anytime the truck leaves the AAA free towing range lol!!

 

Sub'd

 

thanks for your interest

 

What do you guys think about running a gasket vs rtv, it would seem to me that the gasket blocks oil flow between the crawl box and rear case. If you look at post #190, the 3rd photo down shows the galleys in the adapter and the gasket seems to be blocking those. Rear driveshaft section from the tcase to the carrier bearing came today. Pretty sure im going to have to go to a blank rear flange and drill it out on the tcase because the triple drilled flange doesn't have a pattern for the taco driveshaft. Triple sticks should be here on friday.

 

Get permatex "the right stuff", that stuff is the shit. Gaskets always leaked on me. Dont go too crazy by the oil passages in the low range section, when i built my first crawl box i used too much and partially blocked them.

 

You'd have to make your own gasket but I've never had one leak when using ultra grey. Mine has been in and out of my truck a hundred times for R&D with Marlin and I clean it and put it back and not one leak. Plus I use the stock mounts instead of those that attach to the t case so I don't get any twisting of the case which causes leaks too.

 

Yeah im not running a front range style mount, too many drawbacks to it. Im going to keep the two stock mounts. Thought about picking up a budbuilt for a mini truck, but at 300 plus shipping and then having to modify it after the fact. I'll just build my own. Need to make a template for the bolt pattern on the mounts and put it into a dxf file so it can be laser cut.

 

Driveshaft pattern Info that I stole off the marlin board:

FJ60 FR/RR differential flange (fine spline pinion)
Dia 11.2 on a 66 x 66 pattern

FJ40 FR/RR differential flange (coarse spline pinion)
Dia 11.2 on a 60 x 68.5 pattern

'87 2WD P/U RR Diff flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern

'85 FR differential flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern

'85 FR t-case flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 68.5 pattern

Gen I/II Tacoma FR t-case flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern

Gen I/II Tacoma FR diff flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern

Gen I/II Tacoma RR diff flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern

Gen I/II Tacoma RR CV flange
Dia 11.2 on a 77 x 77 pattern

Gen III 4Runner RR CV flange
Dia 11.2 on a 77 x 77 pattern

Gen III 4Runner RR diff flange
Dia 10.2 on a 60 x 60 pattern