'03 Prerunner 4WU 3link up-date

Why not buy a blank flange and drill your holes? Way cheaper than putting a new cv head.

http://www.coreswest.com/blank-toyota-flange-fits-27-spline-pinion-and-transfer-case-trail-gear/

 

What kind of cv did they give you? Im surprised you even need one in the front being that low.

 

Thanks for the link... I'll research this option.

 

Slander,
It is the same CV that is on the rear shaft, which is bolted to a 4 pattern output flange.
Thinking as you, I asked if the CV was necessary and the builder said it was, so I have one.

With the shaft bolted up (backwards) and drooped out to the limit straps, the angle isn't bad at all.

More to follow.

 

Marlin makes, or at least used to make a 5 pattern drilled 27spline flange, i have one of the front output of my lefty that i built. However it may be quicker at this point to redrill it if you have access to a drill press.

 

OK... I did scout their site and came up with nothing that I need or could make work.

I ordered a 27 spline blank that I'll drill out then install.

 

What else is new with MC

 

Just finished installing the front drive shaft. The 27 spline blank from Core West was the ticket, thanks ToyRyd04. Drilled to match the CV end then bolted up. Tested the front locker and it functions as it should.

Also, I replaced both TRE's. Found one very loose and the rubber was wasted around the joint... after install, steering is much better.

Spoke with Brian @ 4WU, he will send me a tool to tighten the remaining Johnny Joints. Of the 5, I have 4 remaining to tighten and the tool will make it much easier to complete. Kudos to Brian.

More to follow.

 

That's great man.
Glad to see that you fixed the issue! I bet it was cheaper too.

So what is the special tool for the johnny joints?

 

For the type I have, it's a small spanner wrench.
Instead of C-clips, this version of joint has a set screw and one side of the joint can be tightened once it is removed. Inside, the joint has multiple points where steel studs @ 90 degrees apart on the wrench are inserted. The wrench is attached to a ratchet in the normal fashion.

Once I receive it, I'll post a pic.

More to follow.

 

Its called a spanner wrench.

 

I still cant believe that marlin stopped makeing the 5 pattern drilled flange, i have one on my lefty. It is pre drilled for evrey bolt pattern used in any toyota truck, crazy they would stop makeing it. Unless they only make it in 30 spline so that you upgrade that output??? Hmmmm....

 

NwiTACO,
In case this item is lost in the mail, where can I purchase one? The one I bought last month is very large, I can't use it.

Thanks.

 

Im sure you'll have to get one from the manufacturer of you joints. If they are JJ, then its currie.

 

Thanks Mark, I'll check their site.

 

After a couple of weeks doing research, I was able to find the shop that sells the type of Johnny Joints I have.
Rusty's Off Road https://www.rustysoffroad.com/ had what I needed, spanner tool as well. I now have it in my possession and will get everything tightened up this coming weekend. I will finally get to do something on my truck this weekend. GOD I need to finish this.

I'll re-work the crappy fire wall plate as well. Although they are close, they really do suck, they're not even flat when you receive them.

As a note to all, the fire wall seal that comes with these 'kits' is an actual OEM Toyota part, which is # 45292-35090.

Hope this helps someone.

EDIT: I received the spanner tool from 4WU this afternoon, now I have two.
Kudos 4WU.

 

Do you have johnny joints on both ends of the links?

I bet you are more than ready to finish this project

 

5 out of 6 joints are JJ's, the upper link at the diff is a heim.
Here is the spanner tool and some bushings for the JJ's:

 

I guess that's one of the benefits of the JJs...you can tweak/rebuild them cheaply. Heims are sealed and there's nothing you can do but to replace the entire joint. Not that they fail that easily but I think they get noisy and squeaky after a while and you just have to live with it or replace them.

 

On Sunday, I adjusted the headlights... they were way out.

I did remove all links & pan hard bar, finished painting everything that I was unable to get while together, then tightened the Johnny Joints and reassembled everything. I am now close to zero steering slop and the unwanted 'thuds' after hitting speed bumps or just bumps in the road in general are gone. It no longer wanders while driving in a straight line.

As an added note: The DS front wheel has had issues since day 1. It hopped around after hitting bumps on the freeway the night I drove it home. The front wheel would continuously hop or bounce until I slowed to a point that it went away. After everything is damn tight now, that issue too has been handled.

I didn't get to the firewall plate, that will be dialed in this Sunday. Time permitting, I will get some poser flex shots.
1st trip out is set for 10-16. I can wait.

More to follow.