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'03 Prerunner 4WU 3link up-date

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Ritchie, Dec 24, 2015.

  1. Aug 6, 2016 at 5:07 AM
    #201
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    I didn't receive the drive shaft yesterday so that plan is out for tomorrow.

    I did speak to Stan @ AP yesterday. He apologized about the wrong bolts being shipped. He is sending replacements and back ordered 3/8" spacers along with a return shipping label so I can send the wrong parts back.

    2nd weekend in a row that I have not worked on my truck.

    Killing me.
     
  2. Aug 6, 2016 at 11:55 AM
    #202
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    good to know the shackle issue is been resolved.

    Sorry to hear about the d-shaft. At this point you must have evolved into the most patient man in the world :D
     
  3. Aug 7, 2016 at 3:27 PM
    #203
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    I was able to seal the Yota Masters firewall plate today. Much trimming and silicone. I did drill the holes larger to allow it to slide towards the PS of the firewall giving just a bit more clearance for the steering shaft to pass through and not touch the edge of the seal/ plate... this caused a creaking sound at idle some of the time.

    For those using this plate and for all plates for that matter, retain the OEM plastic piece bolted to the firewall to use as a template. Mine was discarded months ago. If I did it again, I'd position that piece over the aftermarket piece and verify fit prior, or, make one from sheet metal myself.

    I no longer have hot air getting into the cab.

    More to follow.
     
  4. Aug 26, 2016 at 5:12 PM
    #204
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    3-link SAS
    Any updates?

    Well, my firewall plate ended up not being an exact fit. WTF? Oh well, nothing that a few extra holes and a good bead if silicone couldn't fix. But jeez, youbwould think that such a simple product could be manufactured with more precision.
     
  5. Aug 26, 2016 at 6:03 PM
    #205
    Jimmynolife

    Jimmynolife Actually has a life

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    Lol I was supposed to use silicone on that firewall plate? Maybe that's why my legs are on fire after long drives haha
     
    Ritchie[OP] and malburg114 like this.
  6. Aug 27, 2016 at 7:02 AM
    #206
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    I have to load pics from my phone but yes, there are finally some updates.

    I did install the front drive shaft... it only fit one way which put the CV at the diff. I did ask around, received some advice and checked with the drive line shop. The CV must be installed at the TC.

    Of course, mine didn't work that way in that the Inch Worm TC flange has smaller bolt holes than the front diff flange.
    The CV end of the shaft had the larger holes to bolt up to the diff and the non-CV end had the smaller holes to bolt to the TC flange.
    You can see what I need to do this weekend.

    As a heads up, I asked about drilling larger bolt holes in the smaller flange on the non-CV end. I was concerned because it is much smaller than the other and I didn't want to diminish the structural integrity but was told it will be OK... so that's what I'll do.

    I'll get pics up tomorrow.
     
  7. Aug 27, 2016 at 7:07 AM
    #207
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    Been there too! I'm going to make a new plate template from the OEM piece. My buddy has one to work with. I'll cut out the seal from the crappy one and weld it in.
    As it is now, the shaft slightly rubs it to where I get a squeaking and rattling noise at idle.

    More to follow.
     
  8. Aug 28, 2016 at 8:58 AM
    #208
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I would just get a triple drilled flange from marlin. F messing around with drilling out the holes.
     
    Jimmynolife likes this.
  9. Aug 28, 2016 at 1:39 PM
    #209
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    Slander,
    Are they a PITA and do you need a puller for them?

    I still need to drill out the non-CV end of the shaft regardless.
     
  10. Aug 28, 2016 at 3:12 PM
    #210
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    Good idea on the tripple drilled flange. Just get it from TG or poly performance. Marlin might make u wait a year for theirs lol

    About the silicone bead around the firewall plate...it's just a small bead to prevent heat from coming trough the uneven spots :D
     
  11. Aug 29, 2016 at 6:26 AM
    #211
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Hammer and the appropriate socket to get the pinion or input shaft nut off.
     
  12. Sep 3, 2016 at 3:33 PM
    #212
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    A few years ago I did the 231mm Tundra brake conversion while IFS. This a heads up/ tech kind of post if anyone has had the same issue. I hope it helps somebody going forward.

    As I now have 5k miles on the SAS, while tinkering underneath, I had noticed the inside PS rotor wearing oddly and my wife had complained about it pulling to the RT while stopping. The braking was good and no squeaking at all until this past mid-week.
    Today I replaced both rotors and pads with OEM Toyota parts, 1st time ever doing so for brakes. I even installed the shims.

    That said, I did the driver side 1st, bolted the wheel back on and it wouldn't turn at all. Upon investigating, noticed the rotor was not centered between the inside width of the caliper. I added a 3/32" washer between the caliper and the mounting bracket and that fixed that. The passenger side is different.

    This is the side that was pulling, which really turned out to be dragging against the inside of the caliper. The rotor was 1/8" out of center, meaning there was a 1/4" difference. The rotor was rubbing the inside of the caliper to where you could see thickness difference, like a before/ after scenario. I did the same on this side only the washers were 1/8".

    I bolted the wheel back on and all is good. The brakes are awesome once again.

    Monday, I will get the front driveshaft installed properly as I have it in backwards... the only way it would fit. This will incorporate TC flange drilling and the same for the non-CV flange on the shaft.

    Next Friday, I have the day off, I will replace TRE's on the drag link, one is shot, and replace the lower link Johnny Joint on the axle, it's shot too.

    More to follow.
     
    Nickel likes this.
  13. Sep 3, 2016 at 7:31 PM
    #213
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I have all kinds of washers being used as spacers for my taco calipers with the FROR tacoma brake kit for the solid axle. Glad im not the only one that had to do that. Man how are TREs already crapping out in 5k miles?
     
  14. Sep 3, 2016 at 11:30 PM
    #214
    ToyRyd04

    ToyRyd04 Taco Transformer

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    Same thing, had to shim the tundra 231s. Running the TG tie rod ends. Bought FrontRange ones to have as spares. May swap them out to see the difference.
     
  15. Sep 4, 2016 at 7:01 AM
    #215
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    RC Step side Pre-runner
    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    Only one is bad but I'll replace the 2nd for good measure. The TRE on the PS drag link did hit the steering linkage TRE while turning left. Right turns were considerably tighter which is why I crawled under to see what was going on. When I was adjusting the stops on the axle, I noticed the rubber boot is torn up and there is zero lubricant inside.


    I currently have the FJ80 style so I can't compare to the TG but I'll post if there is a difference when installed.

    I will have pics of the front drive line install tomorrow.

    More to follow.
     
  16. Sep 5, 2016 at 8:10 PM
    #216
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    No drive shaft install, I tried but no go... so no pics as nothing but 4 letter words flew around the shop.

    The non-CV end bolted to the diff flange but the CV of the shaft didn't match a single hole in the Inch Worm flange on the TC allowing me to bolt this beotch up. AARRGGHH!

    So, I'll get in touch with MC in hopes of them having a corrected flange in stock and ship.
     
  17. Sep 5, 2016 at 9:24 PM
    #217
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    Damn...how frustrating! Was the inchworm flange triple drilled? That sux.

    Man, don't hold your breath on Marlin's flange. Hopefully they'll have one in stock but you know how it is.
     
  18. Sep 5, 2016 at 9:38 PM
    #218
    Jimmynolife

    Jimmynolife Actually has a life

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    I've got 2 Marlin triple drilled flanges for the t case in the garage. If that's what you need let me know
     
  19. Sep 6, 2016 at 6:30 AM
    #219
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    RC Step side Pre-runner
    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    I may take you up on that... have any pics?

    The flange I have is triple drilled. The rear flange on the TC and on the axle are quadruple drilled which I need for the front of the TC.

    I did find that some of my steering slop was due to the pitman arm not being 100% tightened down. Definitely helps with that issue.

    More to follow.
     
  20. Sep 6, 2016 at 6:26 PM
    #220
    Ritchie

    Ritchie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    Slander,
    I have a triple drilled flange but turns out I need a quadruple drilled.
    I spoke to Brandon @ MC today. Turns out the triple drilled is a 27 spline and the quad is a 30 spline. So ordering the quad/ 30 spline is out, bummer.

    Brandon suggested having the drive line shop install another CV end on the shaft to make it work.
    I'll have to make time to get down there to make it so.

    More to follow.
     

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