'03 Prerunner 4WU 3link up-date

Man, all the stories about these transfer cases! What an ordeal.

 

The thing is the transfer cases themselves and the crawl box itself are easy to build. The problem is there are a lot of little "shop tricks and tribal knowledge" that people some how know, but are never communicated. Example i stripped out my stock Tacoma tcase input 1 year to the day after i installed my first crawl box, the answer i got from Marlins people and Jim at inchworm was "did you put anti seize on the splines". My answer was, with extreme sarcasm, no i must have missed that in the extensive installation manual that come's with these. Both big Mike and Jim told me that a detailed instruction manual is coming out soon.... that was in 2007. That's why i tell anyone that's going to build a crawler or rebuild a tcase that by all means do it, its fun and relatively easy, but read EVREY build thread that you can find online regardless of toyota model because there is important information and tricks in each one that will help you. Don't read the Chilton style writeup's that you typically see "step 1 remove stock case, step 2 build crawl box, step 3 cut hole in floor for shifter and install in vehicle, step 4 install modified drive-shafts and wheel...."

I will take building crawl boxes and leftys any day over the frame building I'm doing for my SAS, man this sucks.

 

No crawl box, but the TC has the 4.7 gear set. It truly is the most awesome mod one can make with the exception of a rear locker if one was a 2wd.
I did the calculations... in 4lo I am set @ 143:1. It is very slow in 1st gear and I have an auto trans. Probably better with a manual.

 

I hope you get your truck back soon... I know what you are going through.

I still have at least a month of things to repair and tinker with. Quite a bit will definitely happen this weekend. As the major issues are now away, the small fun things will begin.

I'll hit you up when my truck is presentable... or if your truck is finished 1st, let me know.

More to follow.

 

...also, the 5/16's on the cross member put the fan close to the shroud a bit closer than I like. After speaking with the drive line guy, he said that would put stress on the motor mounts too in what is described as a twisting effect. Basically, the RT mount was being pushed forward and the Lt was being pulled backwards, if that makes sense.

Dumb me... I stared at him... and then I got it.

My truck rides so smooth now so, it's onto another fix/ mod this weekend.

More to follow.

 

Here are pics of the steering linkage I will replace two weekends from now. I will remove what is here and replace with the Howe set-up. Their u-joints are smaller, stronger, shorter and have a much better operating angle.
Where you see the u-joint after the HEIM, the new will go in front of it which will properly align the shaft going through the fire wall plate and seal correctly.

The pic through the fender well shows the size of the u-joints, and there are 3 of them.



Lastly, you can see the grande' u-joint stuffed into the seal on the fire wall plate. That beotch makes awful noises while turning the wheel.

Thanks for tuning in... more to follow.

 

Here is a pic of the cross member I built. The washers were installed incrementally to find the right spot in eliminating the drive line vibes. I was close in that MIT removed one washer on each side and repaired the bearing in the back of the box.

I'll get a piece of 1/2" plate in there to replace the washers.

 

I may use Crown for the PS CO reservoir line. I need 90 degree fitting @ each end.
Do you know if they have nitrogen on site?

Thanks.

 

I don't know for sure but I would say so. If not Jason (Speed Freak) has nitro and is right up the street.

 

So I had the CO's charged with nitrogen today. Turns out the fittings were loose but now being tight, feels great on road.

I was able to electrically plumb the front locker today. Felt great to accomplish something on a day when typically nothing happens due to time constraints.

 

Just finished installing all of the steering components with the exception of the u-joints & shafts, that is coming very soon.

It steers like a new truck, so much better than with the OEM pump and accessories.
During the week, I'll dremel the inside fender well to clean up the edges and get the black crinkle wrap on everything for protection. I'll get everything up, tucked in and secured at the same time.

Next project is the steering shafts and u-joints. I'll see how the week goes.

Thanks for checking things out.

 

That's so nice having the pump on the same side of the steering box. I have 4 feet of hydro hose for my pump to box and i still don't think that's enough with the 3.4 as i have to route it around a bunch of crap. The last thing i need is to blow a belt and it takes out my steering lines.

 

Your going to have issues and starve that p/s pump with the feed line like that.
Here is some helpful pointers.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/reservoir_tips.pdf

 

You are on point. When I get to Howe this week, Jeff will come up with a solution. Might need to remove the 45 on the reservoir and replace it with a 90.

Thanks for the link.

 

^^ I enjoyed watching your build.

Here is a pic of the new fitting & hose install. ToyRyd04 nailed it... smoked the pump.

I did get the CO's adjusted and took it for a test run, even got a bit of a flex shot. Still room for more droop.

 

Nice to see it rolling...though It's beggin' for bigger meats

 

^^ I hear you on that.

The 33's are all I'll go with this drive train combo. With 5.29's and an auto trans, it struggles to do 0-60mph in 20 seconds as it is.

Nice to get something accomplished today.

More to follow.

 

I was pulling 40's at 80 on the highway with my 3rz when I was still n/a. 5.29's should pull 33's stupidly easy... And honestly you're stupid overgeared for 33's.

 

^^^ Do you have a manual trans?
With the auto trans I have, there is no way I could use this truck as a daily driver going with larger tires on the Southern CA freeways.

I turn 2750 rpm's @ 70mph with my configuration now. With the hills in my area, it's perfect.

Where I'm located, there are multiple altitude changes every 5 miles in either direction.

Basically, where I'm at, no flat land at all.