03 Tacoma Noobie - No power to Windows/Shift

Hello! I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma that has my shifter stuck and wont move out of park unless i use that relief button. 2nd my power windows wont work on both sides. The brake light works fine so there isnt a problem there. We already tried a new brake light switch but the old one is fine. So we ran a test light to chck for power at the driver side window connector along with the passenger and there is no power coming out of there. We checked the solenoid for power and there isnt power going into there either. So we are kinda stuck. We can start the car and drive it but just cant get the shifter to move nor the windows. All fuses are fine.


ALSO! My dad even tried to jump start the power directly from the fuse box to the window switch and he notice it shocked. What do you guys think? harness shorten?

 

OK, lets see if I can decipher your code...

Does pressing the button on the top of the shifter not release the handle?

What does the brake light working (or not) have to do with your power windows working (or not). Why do you link them together in your question?

 

fuses may be good, but you may have a bad relay. I had a similar issue on a '90 4runner.

 

The truck window all the sudden doesnt want to roll down or up.

Also the truck shifter will not shift out of park when normally applying the brakes.

Brake light switch is fine, All the brake lights come on when stepping on the pedal.

We wanted to see if the problem is in the master (driverside) window switch. So we took the switch off the tacoma and plugged i into a tundra just to double check. It works on the tundra so now we know the master switch isnt bad. We can still lock/unlock the doors with the master switch but just the window switch wont work.

We took a test light to the main plug that connects to the window switch to see if its getting power. Nothing is coming from it. Next the parking shifter. We took a test light to the solenoid and no power there either. So we dont know if there is a short somewhere or maybe a relay like you mention.

 

The ECU-IG 15 amp fuse is common to both. It feeds the Body ECU for the windows and the shift lock control relay.

 

What is all of the fuses are good? We checked the fuses under the dash and on the engine compartment. But we havent checked the shift lock relay

 

Hey so the same thing kinda Happened to me today! My windows suddenly would not go up or down from the drivers switches, but the other windows would go up if I used the switch on that doors window. Then randomly none of them would work. Then the unlock stopped working. next thing i know it wont shift from park! and my headlights normally automatically turn off, and now they stay on if i dont turn them off manually. This all happened within like 2 days. I checked all my fuses and they are good. All headlights tail lights/brake lights work. I noticed I did not have the Ecu 1g 15a fuse. I put that one in and now it will shift from park but all the other problems remain.
Any help?! :/ fuckin weird.. I'm lost.

 

The lE ground connection is common to both the windows and doorlock system. It's located on the right side of the glove box under the dash. That is the way it appears in the manual. White wire with black line. Should be screwed into the metal frame. It goes thru a connector close by then over to the drivers door. Maybe bad connection in the connector or the ground point or corrosion.

 

After replacing the ECU 1G fuse I removed my battery (needed a trickle charge) and let the computer reset. Now everything is working fine! Crazy jap trucks.

 

^^ Im glad you guys got it solved because the truck i was working on was for a customer and after tearing everything apart and not having the slightest clue we sent him to the stealership smh.

 

Please refrain from using racial insults. I have some very good friends who are Japanese. Calling them what you did is just as insulting as calling an African American person the "N" word.


As to the OP, you mentioned you checked the fuses, but how did you check them? Visually, or did you actually use a test light to CONFIRM there was power before and after the fuse? A broken wire, or a wire that has been damaged to the point of only a few strands of copper will test correctly with an ohm meter, but will fail a load test because it will not carry the current. I have seen it over a dozen times over the years.

 

^calm down it wasn't an insult I was talking to my truck. I've called her worse!