04 Tacoma cab swap, no start after swap

I have a 2004 Tacoma xtracab 2.7 5 speed that I started a cab swap on. It ran and drove before the swap. The donor cab was an automatic. After swapping the cabs I have a no crank no start problem. I can hear the relay clicking in the engine bay fuse box. I’ve tested the whole starting system and it seems to be fine. I put a jumper wire from 3 to 5 on the starter relay and it cranks. I swapped my lock cylinder from my old cab to the new one as the new one didn’t come with a key.

I’m wondering if this is a grounding problem or is the cab with the automatic harness not wanting to start my manual Tacoma (plugged in 5spd pcm too). I can’t find a place on the auto to plug in the clutch switch. Could this be the problem? I’d really like to not have to swap harnesses. I plugged in the automatic shifter just to see if that would make it think it’s in park and that didn’t work either.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

Manual and automatic harness are different

 

Would I have to swap the harnesses?

 

No

https://charm.li/Toyota Truck/2004/...Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Starting System/

Look at the 7.5 STA fuse and follow it down to where it splits, one side is for an auto trans the other for a manual. You will need to find that connector and bypass whichever wiring you have, If everything else is correct, It should crank start and run after that.

 

I found wire 5 and 21 in j/b 3 and connected them. Still nothing

 

You should have +12v with the key in the crank position on JB3 connector E3, wire 21, yellow green wire. If you do pull the starter relay. One connector will be hot all the time and one would light up when the key is in the crank position.

 

I’m getting 12v in E3 21 with the key off and also with it on in the crank position.

 

Yes, you are correct... looking at too small of a diagram and litterly got my wires crossed. There should be +12v at all times.

If you were to bypass the starter relay, will the starter crank the motor?

 

Yes when I put a wire from 3-5 on the starter relay it cranks

 

OK were are geting somewhere. The PCM grounds that relay. I looking at the wiring look at the IF1 connector and find the W-B wire and with your test light hook the clip up to battery posaitive and see if the light lights when you turn the key to the crank position. You are checking to see if the PCM is grounding the control side of the relay... ONLY use an automotive test light or DVOM or you will smoke your PCM.

 

I’m getting 12v with the key on and off.

 

I noticed when I put my leads in slot 1 and 2 on the relay I’m not getting any voltage. It seems like I should be.