05-15 2wd to 4wd conversion guide (for dummies)

thanks to this mod I drove 164 miles in 4hi while my rear driveshaft was being rebuilt

 

Do you have a pic of that? I’m wondering if you have the 4wd frame? I didn’t see any other holes to re-mount with

 

Here is a quick picture of the frame. The support is usually riveted in.

 

Is anyone looking for a 4wd tcase? (Not the FJ case)

Im selling mine for $200. I think the actuator works. It can definitely be rebuilt. Has about 131k on it

 

Update: I took last weekend off to go to Vegas. Before the trip, I wired up a harness for the transfer case sensors and I ran it through the driverside firewall. Waiting on the connectors pins and sensor connectors from Corsa Technic to be delivered to finish the dash install and wire harness. I ran the breather vent lines for the clamshell and transfer case. I Just finished mounting the transmission, the torque converter was a PITA to seat correctly, but it's in. I made sure to line up the torque converter bolt holes on the flexplate and torque converter itself in the middle of the starter cavity before install. I had to use a wood screw to remove the RMS. The Lisle seal puller was worthless and the tip snapped.

I decided to replace the five 17mm bolts on the transmission. Two of the original bolts were questionable. The part number is 90080-111426 if anyone needs it. The bolts were cheaper at the dealer than replacement bolts at Ace Hardware. $2.44 vs $4.24. I ended up using the HF Pittsburgh motorcycle aluminum lift to install the transmission. It was on recently and it was easier to maneuver than the lift table.

Waiting on parts to rebuild the original starter. I probably should have gone with a reman, but I want to learn how to rebuild one.

Time to start working on the crossmember and practice welding with the HF Titanium 125. I've been dreading this part.

 

Thanks @pdaddy for taking the time to create this thread and for the others contributing across multiple threads. 4 years after seeing this thread posted, I started saving for the conversion. After the Christmas Holiday this past year, I pulled the trigger and started part collecting. I split the transfer case mid February and started disassembling Blue the first weekend in March.

I'm 97% done with the conversion. Took the truck out for a short drive this past Sunday and Blue drove smooth for not having the exhaust rerouted (truck ran loud). I had the exhaust completed this morning and so far, everything is good. No vibrations, no gear oil smell, and no leaks. I still need to seal the floor at the shifter. I tried using the accordion twin stick boot that came with the Front Range shifter, but it interferes with auto shifter base and twin sticks. I currently have it installed with masking tape until I order some Noico to help seal the floor. The shift boot is also temporarily installed with masking tape. I plan on working on both the weekend after Father's Day weekend. I also noticed my stock UCA's are done for the count, so I ordered some JBA's to install. The 2011 A750F transmission shifts a lot smoothly compared to my tired A750E. However, I noticed I can't shift into 2 and L. I went back to the pictures I saved from the donor 4runner and it was sequential shift. Doh! Otherwise, Blue runs fine and no check engine light. One thing I did notice is the the shifts are really smooth with the A750F. With the A750E, I was accustomed to the feedback of the shifts to intuitively know what gear I was in. At the drive-thru carwash, I had to look to verify I was in neutral. I also haven't noticed the distinctive clunk when stopping at a stop light either. I think I did a good job draining as much tranny oil as I could, I had to add 2 1/2 gallons plus the Lubegard. I replaced the filter and cleaned the pan.

Troubles I ran into....Timken wheel seal 710573 on the knuckle was a PITA. I had to shave the circumference of the seal with 600 grit sand paper and some grease to seat it into the knuckle. The hub dust cover was also a PITA. After playing whack-a-mole for 30 minutes, I just use small channel locks to bend the inner dust cover all the way around, applied some grease and it tapped right in. The front clamshell was a bitch to install solo. I had took it down once after I realized I installed the bushings incorrectly on the subframe. The second time it went up faster than the first time. I used the ratchet strap technique to balance the arms and floor jack to lift the clamshell into position. The Cardone HD CV axles slide right in after I found the right angle to tap it in. I used glidecoat on the splines. I rebuilt the starter including the 2 o-rings and the house shape gasket. I reused the worn out positive terminal cover. The one I bought on Amazon was a mirror image, so it would not fit correctly. I had to bend and shave the shifters a little. The 2wd-4wd shifter still rubs the console panel a little, but it shifts. With as much heat(MAPP) and tension I placed on the shifters, the welds held, so I think I'm good. The crossmember welds looks like crap, but it is strong. I was worried about the welds, but after having to redo the cross plate a second time, I noticed I had noticeable penetration when I had to grind out the first plate. I used a Harbor Freight Titanium 125 fluxcore welder and no welding experience. I do want to reinforce the crossmember a little more, but I'm going to keep an eye on it and see how it holds up this summer before I do so.

Edit: hit post before I could add more pics.

The pics on several thread helped me, so here is my photo dump to contribute.