05 Tacoma Hard Thump on acceleration and decceleration

Oh jeez.... Definitely needs parts!!

 

The engine mounts are fine, engine mounts are not known to fail on these trucks, especially in the fashion which is being described. The spots on where the engine mounts on the frame were known to collapse affected 05-06 models and were only known to fail when heavily abused. This is not the case on your truck as your fan is not striking the shroud. Carrier bearing it is.

/ thread



Lol. Sorry, I had to.

 

Ive been reading some on these posts the ones on the CB there are some pretty sharp tools in this shed.

Happy to have found this forum it’s got a plethora of good info. Definitely thinking about the modified bearing it looks worth the extra work?

I’m trying to get some of the jargon down lol. Mine is a double cab short bed I think is that DCSB? And is there a sticky of materials I will need for this job.

 

That click/clack you're hearing when applying the brakes and changing direction is pad shift. Very common in the Tacoma. Nothing to worry about

 

Ok thanks for the post. I had read countless posts in relation to brake noises. It’s kind of hard for me to compare sounds and vibration etc by reading. But I tried to verify when and how I heard it and compare that way.

Putting grease on the caliper pins seemed to help some.

 

I want to drop the Transmission pan and inspect/clean Inside and change the filter. Any suggestions on pan gasket brand? I see Auto Zone has 1 in stock near me it’s Duralast brand comes with a filter. I think a local Toyota dealer wanted me to use an RTV made by Toyota.

 

This, yes.

I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so I was 'learned up' to follow the book by the book as a basic CYA. So if the book calls for RTV, I'd use RTV. Now, I might not use toyota's specific brand, but I will look up the equivalent store brand and get which ever is cheaper. Paying attention to any specific additives/requirements. Not all RTV is the same. I'm at work so I don't have my shortcuts saved, maybe someone will link the FSM for your browsing pleasure.

Edit: http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html
This is for the 05-15's.

-J

 

I appreciate your service Sir, and your technical aptitude to follow Tech Data, Quality Assurance is always lurking around the corner.

I may try to use Toyota RTV, I've just had better luck with pre made/formed gaskets then attempting to construct my own in the past.

Thanks for the link buddy



DINSTAAR- Danger Is No Stranger To An AGE Ranger

 

Check your u joints for play while youre at it. May or may not be the current issue, but just did mine at 138000 with my carrier bearing.

Youre going to have the driveshaft out anyways, so if there is play, consider doing them while its out.

 

No problems bud. I did a quick google search, if you're running the 2.7l, you'll more than likely have the A340E transmission which I believe has a dip stick. The 4.0 will either have the 750E (2x4) or 750F (4x4), both are the same when it comes to draining/dropping the tran pan.

A340E:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02600810.pdf
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0260025.pdf

750E:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02700710.pdf
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0270033.pdf

I didnt include the 750F since the removal/install of the pan is the same. Same torque values, same same.

-J

 

Just add Mud, this is some quality information my friend. Its a gift to have such a large community like this for help. This truck has the A750F with a 4.0L Thanks again for those articles!

I need to do some poking around and figure out how to locate different articles by searching in the right areas. I realize the theme to reduce redundancy and prevent the same thread over and over.

I just felt like I would end up hijacking another persons thread with my own mechanical issues, if that makes sense.


- No Air Power with out Ground power

 

I used a NAPA gasket and filter on my daughter's Yaris. Zero issues 12k miles later. I would say most of the OTC gaskets and filters are all about the same.

 

Yes the Polyurethane carrier bearing is SO worth the extra work. It handles all of the power my 370HP pig throws out at it, and has been doing so for the past 4 years, so it could definitely handle whatever you got as well.

Do yourself a favor and run a secondary brake pad retention spring. This isn't discussed enough, but it should be. I have never had a clacking issue after doing that a lubricating the pins ever since my first brake pad swap out.

 

Ok thanks, I will try to check for play in them. I did notice the yoke where it splined up seems like it had a good bit slack in it when i was yanking on it to check carrier bearing it sounded dry, so taking it all apart and doing all of that while its out makes a lot of sense.

 

Ok that is awesome intel Sir, quick mod to help eliminate that annoying clacking noise. Putting the spring on both pins seems like a good idea.

 

I wouldn't really say that you'd be hijacking someones thread. I've witnessed thread resurrections from threads older than 5 years before, so not only do you get to see what users did in the past but you'd get input from newer users now. If you don't want to use the search feature up in the upper rh corner of this page, you can do a little google-fu, in google type "site:www.tacomaworld.com [keyword] [keyword] [...]", so you can get specifics if you narrow it down for example "site:www.tacomaworld.com/forums/2nd-gen-tacomas-2005-2015.5/ carrier bearing poly" so google will only look in this sub-forum for those 3 words. I'm sure theres a post somewhere about forum rules, it basically comes down to don't be a dick and don't talk about politics and risk the ban hammer. And lastly, attempt to post factually correct information to the best of your knowledge, but sometimes its easier to state misinformation and let someone else correct you. -Mark Twain, circa 1787.

-J

 

Be careful of NAPA center bearings they have two one is Chinese junk the other one is good quality. The cheap one has no indents to keep the bearing from spinning in the rubber housing the other has two visible inserts and a metal flange to hold it up on the framework so you can use both hands to reassemble it. I did all the u joints and a bearing for a friend about a month ago the bearing made it about a mile before it spun and you have never felt any thing make such a vibration.

 

I wanted to share my Trans pan drain plug torque experience. I have a harbor freight Pittsburgh in pound torque wrench. So I found wet torque should be around 15ft lb from reading all the stories with torquing drain plugs on these particular pans. I set the torque wrench to 180 in and i think its stripped it got soft and i quit turning. No leaks, but when i drop the pan i want to inspect the damage.

Let me give some of my back story to give perspective, i was a mechanic on ground equipment for 20 years. I had never torqued a drain plug in my life to my recollection. However this was my first experience with an AT, so i wanted to follow tech data and do it "right".

I think the torque wrench just failed to click and the whole time in my head I'm thinking this is too tight lol.. and i kept saying to myself just a smidge more and it'll click. It never did but got that dreaded soft vibe. Any thoughts on this blunder

 

Yeah, I had a similar experience working on my tranny pan. I got an in lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight and I tried to make it click on something with a higher torque spec. I wanted to make sure I could trust it. It wouldnt click on a workbench bolt. It wouldnt even click on a lug nut! Took it back and got one from Amazon. I think it was a fluke. Some stuff from HF works well, but that one didnt.

With light torques and a new torque wrench, try it on something else to make sure it clicks first.

 

Without having access to a PMEL shop to verify torque wrench calibration, there is a backwoods way to check the calibration of your torque wrench. If you have access to a bench vice and free weights, either dumbbells or plates that you can verify the weight on a scale. Rig your torque wrench parallel to the ground and secure the ratchet into the bench vise so you can hang the weights from the handle and hear it click. If you set the torque wrench to, say 15 ft lbs and you hang 15 lbs worth of weight from the handle and it clicks, then 15 ft lbs is good. If you set it above 15 ft lbs and it still clicks with 15 lbs on it, then it is out of calibration. There should be a set screw in the base of the handle that you can turn to adjust the spring tension. Mark with a paint pen once you have your calibration set. Check the whole range of the wrench if possible, noting that the upper and lower 10% of the wrench isn't going to be as accurate as the middle 80%. For our use, it should be fine. There's a tool that you can buy, ill link below that's cheaper than a calibrator.

Digital Torque Adapter





-J