06 regular cab on 24s

That’s what I’m hoping! And I actually just got done installing 14 rock lights and a set of wheel lights. The pic is just the rock lights. I have vids of the wheel lights but can’t post them for some reason

 

... and I'm outta here with a garbage unnecessary comment.

 

Hate to break it to you but you're gonna need UCA's. Any lift above 3" it's recommended that you use aftermarket UCA's. I'm running SPC's on mine. Are those the front shocks that came with the kit?

 

I know everybody’s not read every comment but the upper control arms I ordered should be here today.

they are the mevotech ones from rock auto— which supposedly are SPC

and yea they’re the rough country n3 struts

 

Nice truck! I'm on a RC 6", with the Vertex coilover option, and SPC uppers. 22x14 AF 33x12.50 Toyo's. I just had the wheel bearings replaced when the coilovers went on a couple of months ago. Also had the cv boots replaced while it was up and apart. Can't wait to see yours all done.

 

Your rig looks great dude! Wish I had the extra for the vertex setup but I guess I’ll just figure out a plan b to fix my cv/UCA angles. My UCA’s should be here any day now. I’ll continue to update the thread as I get things put together.

you didn’t run into any of the issues with angles like I’m having did you? And if so did the UCA’s help a good bit?

 

Thank you! Got my inspiration from the 808 trucks. Those guys go super wide, and super high. Not everyone's cup of tea, but works for me. I didn't have the super steep angle that I saw in your pics. I thought that pic had the stock spindles, but if those are the RC ones, it looks like something is off. The SPC arms will help mostly with the caster, so I don't see the angle decreasing too much.

In this photo, was the truck on the ground, or at full droop?

 

ok, ya I'm wondering if somethings wrong as well. because that pictures with the truck on the ground lol. My struts dont seem to compress at all so im thinking maybe the n3's are just too much for the regular cabs or something. Either way we'll figure it out

 

I googled some stuff on the n3’s and found myself on a Nissan forum (ew) but there was a lad talking about how his UCA’s were contacting his coils for the first couple thousand miles but now they ride a little better. Ugh. Wish I wasn’t so broke and could just afford better stuff lol

 

I think it's unique! And that lighting is awesome. Keep it up if it makes you happy buddy!

 

Thank god the happiness overrides how broke I am lol

 

RockAuto comes through once again.

 

Full droop driver side

 

SPC’s are in. This is passenger side (was making contact with the coil w/ factory control arms).

So now we know that just by switching UCA’s you can fix that problem.

Lastly— I need to do some aligning on the rig. Idk how much it is to have a shop do it but in the meantime I’d like to try to get it somewhere in the right ballpark. Once it’s aligned I can mount the new wheels n tires.

as it is now the truck has way too much positive camber and toe in. So that’s next on the list

 

There should be some pretty good instructions in the box on how to get the alignment close, at least at the upper arm

 

Also, don't overlook the step to grease those new ball joints. You should be able to loosen that bolt on top of the ball joint, and slide it inward (towards shock mount). that should get you less camber, until you can get it zeroed in.

 

@theaestheticgreek It looks like you don't have your upper ball joint in an officially sanctioned SPC location, but 180° out. Your driver and passenger sides look like they're the opposite of position E. Be sure to flip them around so they're correctly supported. The SPC logo should be facing out at position D and will be visible from the front, outside or back at all positions. Shouldn't be pointing into the truck.

Listen to this advice by MarianasTaco - SPC calls out specific greases, make sure you get one with moly.

Alignments around here usually run $60-80. I've heard Firestone offers a lifetime alignment deal, you might want to look into that. I prefer to go to one of the small local shops where I know the guy who'll be working on it. Generally techs will completely blank when you show up with another adjustment point, I've had some refuse to try and work on it.

Make sure you save the instructions and bring them with you, go back to the rack with the tech so you can explain how you want it done. Tell them to get it close with the lower cams and not to worry about hitting camber immediately because your upper slide will usually be able to zero it out.

 

I’ll take a peek later today or tomorrow. Have to be at school all day today. But I got em at the “E” setting. Spc has YouTube vid stating if you want to increase wheel clearance at the back of the tire from the body mount to use that one. I did mount one on the “D” setting yesterday though. These are super easy to adjust though.

 

Check your left and right on the instructions - the radiused part of the ball joint needs to be towards the engine with the logo visible from the outside. Yours are backwards. Here's my passenger side on position D.