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06 Tacoma replacement shocks, springs etc question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KaosTsoc, May 23, 2012.

  1. May 23, 2012 at 11:19 AM
    #1
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello again. I want to replace all my shocks, springs, and leaf springs for something that will be able to handle heavier loads. Basically looking to find a good brand that would be beefer than the stock. I dont want lift my truck, cause I like the standard higth as it is. I have looked at some many parts, and brands, and they all say we are the best etc etc. You know marketing works I am sure. So, I want to get some input from you guys, cause you are the ones using them, and would know better than me. I am still new at trying to my own work on my truck. In fact I dont think I have really messed with a vehicle much other than changing tires, batteries, Alternator pullys, and the actual alternator. I know how to change the oil as well, so some of the basic stuff I know, but when it comes to actually taking stuff off, and replaceing things like the suspension make me a little nervous. So, any help, and or suggestions would be just great.



    Thanks.
     
  2. May 24, 2012 at 12:32 AM
    #2
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    Stiffer springs means less spring compression. Less spring compression means higher ride. OME full suspension will give the most heavy duty suspension with minimal lift outside a coilover front. Since a heavyduty rear will sit higher you want a little lift up front anyway.
     
  3. May 24, 2012 at 12:37 PM
    #3
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah that is what I was kind of afraid of. I guess with that said, I could stand to go maybe an inch or two higher. However if I just want to replace the stock stuff with new parts that are in line with the OEM specs that would work too. I am more of an audio guy than anything. So, please excuse my lack knowledge, what are coil overs?
    Also what are some good brands that are worth buying for both an OEM replacement, or not?

    Thanks.
     
  4. May 24, 2012 at 1:01 PM
    #4
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I guess i could do the Bilstien 5100's all the way around the truck to start. From what I am reading you can 0" to 2.5" lift on the truck if I wanted. Which is good, cause who know I may want to lift my truck at some point in the future. What other brands are there out there that would be just as good. It looks like the Bilstien 5100 are really popular on here. So, with that said, I think they may be a good start, but I like to have options. Now once that is done should I go ahead and replace the springs up front too or just leave the OEM? Also what about the leaf springs in the back??


    Thanks.
     
  5. May 24, 2012 at 2:15 PM
    #5
    Hard

    Hard Well-Known Member

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    You dont have to have any lift to get stiffer springs, its just that most manufacturers make their springs aproximately the same height as stock or taller and they are also stiffer resulting in a lift. The lowest lift heavier rate springs that I know of are the Old Man Emu (OME) 883x springs for the 2nd gen Taco. These paired with the OME struts make about a 1-1.5" lift, the Eibach springs are even heavier rate with about 1.6" of lift. You can get custom spring packs for the rear that will offer NO lift and just about as high of a spring rate as you can ask for. Deaver and Alcan would be the companies to contact for the rear leaf pack. The custom rear leaf pack will be $$. There are companies who will make custom front springs but they are also $$ and not as common.

    There are lots of options out there but make sure your components are meant to work together. A really stiff spring without a correctly valved shock sucks.

    Good luck
     
  6. May 25, 2012 at 7:46 AM
    #6
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That is good point. I also saw those OME springs on a website yesterday. I think the site was down south trucking or something like that. I was thinking that I could go with the 5100's all around, then get the OME for the front as well. I dont honestly know if they would work together or not still a noob to this... As for the leaf springs I have no idea on that. They say the stock stock, springs etc should last the life time of the vehicle, but I doubt that. I mean it is a part of the truck that is used every day, and after constant use it will wear out at some point. Plus I plan on having the truck for a while, and make it my project truck too.


    Thanks.
     
  7. May 25, 2012 at 10:11 AM
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    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    5100 have inadequate valving and length for Dakars and Dakars need 200 lbs in the bed or they ride rough as shit. 884s or 885s up front would not give enough lift to screw anything up and you can keep your factory UCA. Eibachs and 5100 may make you happier with less lift. For the rear... you are gonna have a horrible ride with a stock height and extra capacity springs. This means either very limited articulation with double overloads or super thick leaves. You may be better served with Timbrens and a factory TSB if you are within warranty.
     
  8. May 25, 2012 at 10:25 AM
    #8
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Another option for the rear would be aig bags. Fully adjustable load carrying ability.

    And Devl, I beleive you are mistaken about the custom leaf pack for the rear... you'll have better articulation with a custom leaf pack vs. stock with Timbrens. The Timbrens won't allow you to uptravel as much because they're so damn tall. If it's financially within your means, a custom leaf pack is a better option than a load carrying bump stop in my opinion. Also, 884's or 883's can be used with stock components, 885's should be paired with new UCA's because of the amount of lift you gain with them.

    To be honest, you might want to consider a small lift to acheive your final goal. Reason being, there is much more aftermarket support for lifted applications vs. custom made stock height applications. You can stay stock and have a beefed up suspension, you'll just more than likely spend a lot more money trying to acheive it.

    Also, why are you trying to beef up the front? Are you looking to add a plate bumper or winch?
     
  9. May 25, 2012 at 10:35 AM
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    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    I did not need UCA to get my alignment within spec with 885 and no spacer. I did have to add excessive caster due to my minimal lift and the uca added caster moving my wheel back in the wheel well. I could have used perhaps 1 degree added caster from the UCA instead of 2. Mostly because my lift is so minimal.
     
  10. May 25, 2012 at 10:51 AM
    #10
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    You can get alignment within spec, but it's usually at the outter edge of 'spec' for caster and camber. In some cases, the low caster causes the vehicle to handle like crap on the highway. With 885's, it's prudent to plan for new UCA's in my opinion.
     
  11. May 25, 2012 at 11:21 AM
    #11
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sweet. Thanks guys. You bring up very good points that I did not think of. I am not totally against lifting the truck a little bit, but I am not by any means wanting to lift the truck 3+". The truck is whimppy little 4 cycl with no nuts at all, and I fear that by lifting the truck 3+" will have a high center of gravity, and will also put more strain on the engine which is already weak as it is. I am putting the beefer suspension on to get a little more load capacity both in the front, and rear. The front is my main concern at the moment cause I am putting in a new battery. The battery itself is like 60 lbs +/-, then I am putting in a battery tray. The battery tray is a 1/2" thick steel safe door that I cut down to size. I know I know, its a safe door, and it is 1/2" thick...??? OVERKILL... Yeah I agree with that, but hell it was free, and beggers cant be choosers. Plus will all the dynamt, and speaker equipment, and towning things. A new beefer suspension is going to be well needed at some point. I dont off road all the much except to get to my fishing spots. Plus I want to do things to the truck that make it mine, and I would like to get in some wrench time, and get to a point were I can do mods etc myself. Shops now adays are not like the used to be. It all about stikcing it to the consumer so, they can get rich, and still muff your stuff then charge you again to fix it.


    Thanks.
     
  12. May 25, 2012 at 12:23 PM
    #12
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh, and my truck is out of warrenty for rear leaf TSB so, no dice there. I dont trust the dealership anyway to mess with my truck, plus all they do is try to charge me for crap I dont need. Bunch of vulchers IMO.

    The back end of the truck sits higher than the front as it is, not by much, but you can see it. I dont want to get excessive with the upgrade, just something to sink my teeth into if you will. However, if there are things that will be needed in order for this work then so be it. I have also been doing a lot of looking on here as well. Some people get new control arms both top and bottom, and some dont. I guess it all comes down to how high you want to..... Dont really want to go to air bags just yet, good idea though. So, if I set the 5100's at 0", and still put in the OME's I would get like an 1" 1 1/2" lift?? Still trying to grasp this lift calculation stuff. If I do, do this should I just get new UCA's, and LCA's, and be done with it?

    Not really looking to do real custom leafs if I can prevent it. And to be honest I dont mind at all if my rear sits a little higher that the front, I am not looking to level her out, but if it works out that way then so be it. In fact I like how the rear is higher than the front anyway, so if I could retain that, that would be awsome.

    I do plan on putting these in myself, and I have found some vids on here that show how to do it so, I think I am covered there. Worse case, I might have to ask one of you on here to come help me if you are in Dallas, Tx area.

    Thanks.
     
  13. May 29, 2012 at 9:35 AM
    #13
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok. So, I have been doing alot of reading on here (search button is great... Noobs like me need to use it more often lol), and it appears that getting a new UCA is the best option to make sure everything fits. I would also think getting LCA's as well would be a good idea too, just in case I decide to go higher or what not.

    I have a good idea on how to change them which is good, and thanks to the write ups on here. Still not sure about the ride higth stuff though, still kinda foggy on that.


    Thanks.
     
  14. May 29, 2012 at 11:01 AM
    #14
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    No LCA upgrade is not useful to you in any way. If you get 885 you get 2.25" lift. If you get 285 tires you will need out of spec caster (over 3) with cab mount chopped and possibly with smaller tires if you dont have cab mount chop. You add caster by moving uca back or lca forward... the uca moving the caster back 2 degrees (as is done on uniball UCA) moves the whole wheel about 2 finger widths back closer the the rear of the wheel well. I dont know what 884s will get you because I dont have any experience there. If you are gonna get OME springs Id get OME shocks. They are valved for the OME springs and are shorter closed and longer extended. 5100 might be too short or too long collapsed in rear depending on shock length you choose. Cost increase over 5100 is super minimal if you dont get the new style front shocks. I dont see the point in 5100 if you wont use the preload feature.
     
  15. May 29, 2012 at 11:13 AM
    #15
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    The only people replacing their lower control arms are serious off roaders or long travel guys. For a lift of 3" or under, DevL is correct, new LCA's are of no benefit.

    There are several OME coils to choose for the 2nd Gens and how much lift you get depends on which coil you choose. The 4 coils that fit a 2nd Gen are 883, 884, 885 and 886 coils. 883, 884 and 885 coils all have the same spring rate, 886 coils are very heavy and should only be used if you have a lot of armor on your truck and/or a heavy plate bumper with a winch.

    Actual lift measurements depend on the model of the truck but this will get you close for a V6 Tacoma:
    883's will give you around 1.5" of lift
    884's will give you around 2" of lift
    885's will give you around 2.5" of lift

    Trim packers and top plates can be added to any of these coils to gain an extra 1/4 to 1/2" of lift.

    For a front lift under 2" of lift, you should be perfectly fine with your stock UCA's. 2 - 2.5" of lift you might be alright but it's a bit of a crapshoot as to whether you'll need new UCA's or not, 2.5" of lift or higher and it's a very good idea to get UCA's to avoid alignment issues.

    OME coils can be used with Bilstein 5100 series shocks and many people are running this combo without any issues.
     
  16. May 29, 2012 at 1:55 PM
    #16
    KaosTsoc

    KaosTsoc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DevL, and Pugga. You guys are great. Ok. I see what you are saying about the LCA being of no use. I was thinking that, but was not 100% on that. I am glad you said something, cause I sure was going to get both. I say that cause after reading the info on the Long, and Mid travel threads. It seems that everyone on the long travel, changes their UCA, LCA, Sway bar, and a few other things I can't think of right now. However with the mid travel guys, it seems to be a toss up between new LCA, or not. I know the long travel is not the direction I want to go right now. I will however get the new UCA so, I dont have to worry about any alignment issues.

    I like the idea of using the OEM 883's coupled with the 5100's, and after reading about the rear spring TSB. I will go out to my truck, and see if I have two bent leafs, with one straight (which mean no TSB was done my truck... I think... correct me if I am wrong), or have three-four bent leafs, and one straight (which means it was done....I think... correct me if I am wrong). So assuming that the rear TSB was done (which I really hope it was) then all I need to do there is put the 5100's in the back, and done, and no need to do an AAL in the back. However if the TSB was not done, then I could do the AAL in the rear similar the TSB, then put on the 5100's. The one thing I have trouble with, is the higth stuff. So, if I use the OME's 883 (which is 1.5" lift) then sent the 5100's at (for the sake of argument) at 1" that would give me a total of 2.5" of lift in the back? I take it do the same for the back right?


    Thanks.
     
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