07 Frame rust (pics). What is the best way to fix?

That sucks! I realize mine is not horrible, especially compared to some of the eastern states, but at the same time, something needs to be done if I want to have a nice reliable high mileage Tacoma 10 years from now. If I was trading trucks every 5 years I would not touch it.

 

Edit: Oops, sorry about the double post.

 

Doesnt look bad at all. POR15 is the best stuff to use id say when put on correctly. But i dont think you really need that stuff, However i would still use it.

 

my truck looks some what similar. I plan on Using a wire wheel and wire brush. They sell the underbody coating primer.

 

I have the actual quart in hand, but haven't applied it yet. I'm in a rush to prepare a part of my house for the mason to come and do his magic.

I also am preparing the basement bulkhead door by stripping it first and hitting all the rust with the Rust Bullet while I do the truck, that way I feel like I am using up as much of this stuff as possible.

I'm going to brush it on, that way I can work it into the "pores" of the rust. I only got a quart because it says coverage is 200 sq. feet per gallon. I didn't do the calculations but I'd say our frames (where rusted) are significantly less than 200 sq. feet. At what they are charging for this paint, I don't want alot of leftover product.

 

I would be careful. I have an '06 Reg cab, and I live in NE. I used some Rust Neutralizer from Autozone since I just had minor surface rust then covered that all with like 4 coats of paint then this stuff:

$21 BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001447PEK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is working great so far, but what you should be careful on is using Rust inhibitor / Neutralizer on bare metal. The instructions on the can of stuff I was using said "there must be SOME rust left for it to work, and may CAUSE rust on bare metal if not treated properly".

So if you wirewheel the frame to bear metal I would just prime it, paint it, and FF it. If you just get the heavy rust of with a scraper and hammer then use the rust inhibitor, then paint. The rust inhibitor should act as a primer by itself.

That is just my $0.02 but definitely read the instructions carefully with any product you are using to treat your frame. I would follow those instructions first then if you have any questions follow instructions on this site.

 

i live in a damp climate (alaska) and it rains a lot here. I recently sprayed parts of my frame with WD40. I have a 2012

Is this a good and cheap choice to prevent rust?

 

I have been researching the "Frame Rust" problem because I have lost my 1999 Tacoma to it and have recently bought a 2001 Tacoma Limited.

First off I would not put WD40 on anything! There have been lots of tests relative to rusting using a lot of oils/inhibitors and WD40 (on guns) usually comes in at the bottom of the list. It's just no dam good!

From my understanding the people in the know in Canada use motor oil treatment, by just spraying down the frame/undercarriage with new/used motor oil ! They seem to have found it works about as good as anything.
Supposedly there are places in Canada that do basically just that! I haven't been able to authenticate that, but it is food for thought, for you! However I strongly suggest you forget the WD40, that sounds like company BS!

Another thing, everyone that sells/talks about there product has never in my findings shown a factual situation of a vehicle with some rust being treated with there product for some extended period of time, like 3/5/10 years so.
So, one has no reason to believe them! NO, track record!
Show me some actual on the road long life results as above and Hell, I'll endorse the product, "IF, IT REALLY WORKS".
Companies willing to take this challenge, should do it in the "RUST BELT", they know exactly what/where I'm talking about.

 

Currently working on the frame of the truck and prepping it for application of Rust Bullet, but Fluid Film is going on next.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/295097-fluid-film.html

I would do some reading and researching on that stuff. A good alternative to Fluid Film seems to be Krown.

 

Rust Bullet & Rust Check Rust Paint as top coat.

Did not get a chance to brush on Rust Bullet BlackShell as top coat, but instead sprayed a few coats of Rust Check Rust paint. I needed a quick solution as the weather was deteriorating and BlackShell required 8-10 hours of drying time per coat. Fluid Film is going on next.

 

Nice job kryten! You went whole hog on that frame, that must have taken quite a while. I sprayed on my FF and I finally feel I can take a sigh of relief that this job is finally put to rest.

 

Yeah, I tried to cover as much as I could reach. Lot of it was still factory paint in great shape but I decided to just cover everything since I spent so much time under the truck already. Unfortunately, I was not only running out of time with good weather, but 1 quart and 1 pint of Rust Bullet did not seem to be quite enough. My second coat was kind of half-assed so I'm a bit disappointed there. Hopefully it will be good enough, especially since I applied top coat and fluid film is going on soon.

So in summary, I wasted $70 of BlackShell, but at least I did not open it so I could still use it in the future. Spend 10x more time doing this whole ordeal than I planned to or wanted to and as a result ran out of good weather and time. Still, I'm happy that it is mostly done now and I'm sure it is better than not doing anything and letting the rust spread.

Thanks again for your advice earlier.

Btw, I`ve noticed in another thread you got your Fluid Film kit with the Pro gun on sale. Would you recommend that one and all the extension wands or would you think the regular paint gun would be good enough?

 

I would advise against fluid film, all it does is collect shit from the road, ie salt/sand and then hold it next to the frame. What you have done is plenty, this is on my list of projects to do soon.

 

Not bad at all! Mine has rust holes through it.. If it's THAT bad, then weld a plate of steel on it... That's what I did, and it's stiff as hell! Hope that helped. lol

 

Just to add. More than half of the time working on this project was me scraping rubber undercoating from the frame rails. Previous (first owner) decided to spray that crap on at some point. They only covered the outside of the main frame rails anyway, the whole length though. I spend hours scraping it off by hand with paint scraper.

There was as much rust or even more under the rubber undercoating as on the sections it did not get applied. It must have cracked and moisture got trapped underneath. It obviously does not work and I would strongly recommend against it.

 

I went around under my truck recently to start fighting some of the rust. I used a wire wheel, Rustoleum Rust converter and Rustoleum top coat. Still have some to do. Mine looked worse than the OP. Some larger flakes came off and the inside of my rear bumper was rusty. Couldn't really do anything other than spray the converter and then a top coat. I don't think dipping the rear end in water every week helps any.

 

What are your thoughts on the Rustolem product? I'm thinking I'll use Eastwoods....

 

You're welcome.

I don't have any experience with the basic gun, so I can't tell you if the pro gun is better.

I can say that the various extensions I got came in very handy and I used them all.

I used the flexible 360* wand to coat inside the boxed portion of the frame, and it fit inside almost every hole in the boxed part. I used the rigid aluminum wand to spray the part of the frame hidden by the fuel tank and the muffler area. This also proved useful to spray the top of the frame in the engine bay, as you can do it without dousing the exhaust manifolds. The flexible wand that simply sprays at the end was useful for getting on top of the frame rails as they run under the cab. I had pre-coated this area with the FF grease (much thicker than regular FF).

Lastly, the pro gun had a nice pattern with just it's regular nozzle on. Not sure that it is any different than the base guns pattern. I used two quarts (half gallon) on my frame and I sprayed the floor of the cab as well. I could see where there were factory spot welds and body plugs that were starting to rust.

The only thing that was a hassle was I had everything prepped and ready to spray. I didn't look at the gun closely, and I don't buy enough air tools to know better, that the air connection is a threaded type. I use only quick disconnects.

The gun needs a female 1/4" quick disconnect, and all I had were male ends. So I had an hour and a half delay while I packed up all my equipment, put it away, and ran to Sears to get what I needed.

 

I used Rust Bullet Metal Blast on the section that were rusted prior to applying Rust Bullet. All those rust spots that got sprayed changed color within minutes so seems like it did its job.

 

Awesome, that helps a lot. I also have only quick disconnects, so I will be ready now. Looks like the pro kit is the way to go then since those wands are very useful. They don't mount on the standard gun. Too bad there isn't any sale here in Canada that I know of.