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07 Taco - New Rear Wheel Bearing won't Rotate

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Dowstjh, Oct 4, 2023.

  1. Oct 4, 2023 at 7:29 PM
    #1
    Dowstjh

    Dowstjh [OP] Member

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    So I replaced the leaking right rear axle seal on my 2007 4WD 2.7L Tacoma (amongst other things) and decided to replace the wheel bearing while I was at it because the bearing didn't feel great and people have said gear oil is bad for the bearing.

    Lacking the tools to replace the bearing myself, I brought the rear axle half, hub and drum backing plate to toyota (see picture) to have the retainer ring pressed out, the wheel bearing pressed out, and new ones pressed in.

    When I got the axle assembly back from the dealership, there was a space between the retainer ring and the snap ring that holds the retainer ring in place. ODD, the retainer ring previously stopped right at the snap ring groove. I.e., the retainer ring is now approximately 1/16-inch closer to the wheel bearing than it was previously.

    Additionally, I cannot rotate the wheel bearing by hand. I know new wheel bearings can be tight, but this seems very tight. For example, with the axle installed I can rotate the wheel bearing by putting most of my 180lbs on a wheel stud with my foot, and maybe with all my force rotate it by hand, but I don't ever remember new wheel bearing requiring more than light hand pressure to rotate. If I put the wheel on the added leverage allows me to rotate it, but again it's very tight.

    So, I am thinking the wheel bearing was over compressed by the retainer ring, squeezing the wheel bearing and not allow the bearing to rotate easily.

    Does everyone agree? I have everything back together (drums too), but am leaning towards pulling it back out and bringing it to the dealer because I won't even be able to adjust the rear drums. I dont want to bite the bullet because it's been a never ending project, but it seems smart.

    Resized_20230920_212716.jpg
     
    E3g likes this.
  2. Oct 6, 2023 at 4:22 PM
    #2
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    Something is wrong. Bring it back. There should be almost no space between the retaining ring and the press spacer. It sounds like maybe they left off the "belleville" washer that is supposed to take up any tolerances. I don't have a good picture, but I'll provide you a bump and maybe someone can post a pic from the FSM.

    You should certainly be able to spin the axle by hand. Easily
     
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  3. Oct 6, 2023 at 4:35 PM
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    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    The problem is that if they left off the "belleville" washer, they will have to do it all over again with a new bearing.

    From what I understand you're saying, there is a ~.06" gap between the press collar and the retaining ring. If so, this is about the thickness of the washer.
     
  4. Oct 6, 2023 at 4:43 PM
    #4
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] Here's a pic. Lets see if this works

    Damnit, I must've forgotten how to post a pic here!

    In any event, leaving off the washer wouldn't affect the bearing as far as being able to easily rotate. It sounds like you have multiple errors and they need to redo it.

    Edit: the belleville washer is between the press spacer and the bearing. In order to remove the spacer, this ruins the bearing and it will need to be replaced. This is not on you, but you will need a new bearing if this is the case.
     
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  5. Oct 6, 2023 at 5:59 PM
    #5
    Steve-O

    Steve-O Well-Known Member

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    Steve_P is right on the money - do not proceed. The bearing will get ruined when they pull it off, so someone will have to pony up for a new one (it should be them).

    I just did this job within the last two months - something went awry when I went to press on the first axle bearing (I replaced both sides), and I had to pull it back off. I was hoping I could get it off in one piece, but it pulled apart just like the originals. I was not happy, but was able to source a new bearing the next day from Napa, and that bearing went on just fine. I still have no idea what happened to that first bearing - everything bound up, and I felt like I was going to really mess something up with how much pressure I was putting on axle with the 20-ton press. I invented a few new cuss words that weekend.

    When done correctly, you'll be able to turn the bearing by hand with it pressed in place. Yes, it won't spin freely like a fidget spinner (nor should it), but you shouldn't feel any grinding/binding either. I'd guesstimate that it takes about 10-15 pounds of force to get it to turn.

    This is not the type of job you want to have to redo. Now that I've done it, I could probably do it in half the time, but I'd be okay if I never had to do it again.

    Best of luck...

    Edit: when I did this, these threads had all the info I needed (including links to videos that walk you through the process, diagrams from the FSM, etc.):

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-rear-axle-bearing-seal-replacement.734924/

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-rear-axle-bearing-diy.246760/
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2023
  6. Oct 6, 2023 at 6:05 PM
    #6
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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    I have no idea where you're located and I know this is kinda after the fact... but do you have any hot rod shops by you? I'd personally rather a shop like that do this kinda job than a dealership. Just sayin...if you get stuck having to do it a second time. Maybe look elsewhere?
     
    wilcam47 likes this.
  7. Oct 6, 2023 at 6:46 PM
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    Dowstjh

    Dowstjh [OP] Member

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    Thanks for your feed back guys.

    Steve P, see below picture. I over estimated the gap in my original post, the ring is loose but not as loose as I previous said, a .012 shim fits.

    Good point Chris, I do have other shops around me that could do it...unfortunately I "chinced" on the shop I went to because work was demanding and the dealership was the only place open on the Saturday when I finally had time to bring it in. If the dealership isn't cooperative about doing it again on their dime I will 100% bring it elsewhere, that's for sure.

    I contemplated getting the press to do it myself Steve-o, but yeah it looked like a lot, i dont have room for a 20-ton in the agrage and yeah, I didn't want to spend the time doing it. Kind of bit me in the behind, oh well, I'm not envious of you doing it, but good on you for doing it!

    20231006_213757.jpg
     
  8. Oct 6, 2023 at 7:03 PM
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    Steve-O

    Steve-O Well-Known Member

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    I'll be frank: I spread the work over 3 days (I work SLOW) - it was 95°+ degrees in my garage that weekend, and I was miserable the entire time.

    I also don't have room for a press - ended up borrowing one from a friend just for that weekend. Seems a bit odd to be hauling the tools you need to do the job in the thing that is about to become the job, but it is what it is. Once I was done with it, I gave it back, but still have the press adapters (thanks Ebay) should the need arise. I think I came out ahead money-wise, but the whole thing probably took a good couple years off of my life. The only stock part of that differential is the housing itself at this point, and I'm still not sure how I feel about that. Truck drives pretty nice though for an '07 with 180k+ on the clock and counting.

    Regardless of my rambling, stick with it...you'll get it, and eventually you'll forget how much of a PITA it was.

    Eventually.
     
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  9. Oct 6, 2023 at 7:18 PM
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    Steve-O

    Steve-O Well-Known Member

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    One more thing - my best guess based on the pic with the feeler gauge is that they went overboard with the press. The washer is clearly there, and nothing else looks out of place to my untrained eye.

    It does take a fair amount of pressure to drive everything down the axle, but the amount required is pretty uniform until is finally seats. Once it does, there's no need to crank on it any further...it ain't moving, and forcing it to do so will only cause trouble.

    There's also no need to press everything on at the same time...you can seat the bearing first, then slide the washer on and press the bearing retainer/collar on after that. Doing it separately relieves a little bit of the stress of making sure everything is aligned properly before you start bearing down on it. So to speak.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2023
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  10. Oct 6, 2023 at 8:36 PM
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    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    It does appear that the bearing and seal retainer have been pressed on a bit too much causing your issues, that Belleville washer is flat as a pancake. It took a fair amount of pressure just to get the snap ring on so to get to that point it definitely a lot of force.

    I learned that most dealers don’t even do the press work they farm that out to local shops anyhow so I would go to your dealer and give them hell, they owe you a new bearing at a minimum.
     
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  11. Oct 7, 2023 at 8:36 AM
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    Dowstjh

    Dowstjh [OP] Member

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    So the good news is that the dealer agrees it's hosed and they're going to fix it free of charge. We will see how they do on the fixing it part once I get it back...

    Eventually, years later, we will forget about how much of a PITA it is and we can tell good stories about it on tacoma world forums, and drive around in our rust buckets with no car payments, so we got that going for us!
     
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  12. Oct 7, 2023 at 9:01 AM
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    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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    lol looking forward to the updates!
     
  13. Oct 7, 2023 at 5:32 PM
    #13
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the washer is there. But they did fuck something up if you cannot spin it easily by hand, on the bench, before it's installed. I am not sure how they did that, but flat rate, rushing.... and then pressing on the outer race instead of the inner....
     
  14. Oct 8, 2023 at 11:33 AM
    #14
    lynlan1819

    lynlan1819 Well-Known Member

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    They screwed it up,make them do it over with all new parts.
     

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