08 stuck in park. Help please.

My 2008 Tacoma won’t shift out of park. The cruise control also isn’t working and just flashes when activated. I checked all my fuses but they are good. My 3rd brake light doesn’t come on so I’m assuming that’s where the problems is. I tested all 3 bulbs and they work. Not sure what else to do. I read to check the brake light switch and I removed it and cleaned it but it still won’t come on. All other brake lights work.

 

I did not. Stock taillights.

 

I'm on it. LOL

OK, 1st, pop the plug out of the console near the shifter, so you can push the button thingy to get it out of park.

Now, check and see if the back up lights work.
Reason: Fuse IG1 is important for the Shift lock control ECU. IG1 feeds a bunch of stuff, including the back up lights. If the back up lights work, then IG1 is good.

Next, you mention that the 3rd brake light doesn't work, but you make no mention of the other brake lights. (Edit: Well, you mention that brake lights work, but don't mention if they actually illuminate when you push the brake pedal) I'm gonna make the assumption that they don't work. Check the 10A stop fuse in the underhood fuse box. There have been many times when people have said they checked all the fuses, and they were checking the wrong fuse, or checking the fuse by just looking at it.

Finally, the 3rd fuse that is important for the Shift lock control ECU is the 7.5A ACC fuse in the under dash fuse box.

Now, if/when you find a blown fuse to be the culprit, you need to determine why it blew.

 

Do you have any check engine codes?

Are the brake lights on when you are not pressing the pedal?
The brake switch has two sets of contacts.

The below circuit is the Cruise Control Circuit.

I would check the Stop Fuse and the IGN Fuse with a meter or test light. Do not trust just looking at the fuse.

6. Manual Cancel Mechanism
If any of the following signals is input during cruise control travelling, the cruise control is cancelled.

∗The stop lamp SW is turned on.
∗The CANCEL SW is turned on.
∗The main SW is turned off.
∗Gear is shifted from D position to other positions than D (A/T).
∗Clutch pedal depresed (M/T).

7. Auto Cancel Function
If any of the following conditions is encountered, the cruise control is automatically cancelled.

∗The stop lamp SW wiring is faulty or short–circuited.
∗The vehicle speed signal is faulty.
∗The electronically controlled throttle malfunctions.
∗The actual vehicle speed becomes –16 km/h slower than the set speed.
∗The actual vehicle speed becomes slower than the minimum speed limit.

 

Inside the truck where the fuses are, You should see a bigger 30A fuse.
Above that fuse there should be 3 wiring harness plugs.
Make sure all those are connect and plugged in good.

 

If the other brake lights work, but the top 3rd one doesn’t, it looks like it would be in the junction box.
As the other lights get power from the same source. At least that’s what I’m seeing. If I am reading it correctly.

 

1B and 1C plugs look to be common between some of the components.
Just throwing that out there for Jimmy and Muddin.
You guys are the go to guys on this stuff.
Thanks Guys.

 

I think that it needs to be determined why it won't come out of park. yes, 1B and 1C are common to the rear brake lights, 3rd brake light and the brake wire to the shift lock ECU, but I'm still not convinced from the OP that the rear brake lights are actually illuminating when the brake pedal is pushed. We've seen it plenty of times. "I checked all the fuses" "Did you check the ___ fuse?" "Doh!"

 

Yes, Sir.
I’ll be one to admit it.
I’ve done it myself.

 

It could also be the IG1 No2 Fuse.

 

I’ll check today and report back to you guys. When I press the brake, my taillights turn on, just not the 3rd brake light.

 

isnt there a plunger switch at the brake pedal? i had to switch it out on my MIL's car when it didnt come out of park.

i bounced on the brake pedal a few times..hard and it let me get out of park, so i knew it was the switch that was the culprit. in the meantime, jam a key into that slot in the shifter for the manual release, no?

 

In case you need to know where the shift lock control ECU is, it’s S7 in this pic. This would be helpful if you exhaust all ideas and need to check voltages at the ECU.

 

Ok so I went out and bought a tester light. All fuse lights turned on except the inside cabin tail 10A. When I removed the fuse and tested the fuse it lighted. I then removed the brake light switch and noticed the wires to the connector got severed. At first it was just one but then 2 more fell off. I called Toyota and ordered the wire and connector. I asked if this might cause the truck to stay locked in park and he said no. What do you guys think? Any of you guys replaced this part before?

 

Yes.
If your foot isn’t on the brake, how are you supposed to shift from Park?
If the switch is not working the truck doesn’t see your foot is on the brake.
So it won’t shift from park.
At least this is the easiest way for me to explain it.

 

The guy that you asked if that would cause the truck to be stuck in park is an idiot or he didn't understand the question.

In order for the shift lock to disengage the brake pedal must be pressed. If the wires are cut it will not see the brake pedal pressed or not.

Now that leads me to ask what cut the brake switch wires?

 

Since the wires are cut, strip some of the insulation off the green/white and blue wires. Twist them together and see if the brake lights come on. Then push the brake with the wires twisted, start the engine, and see if you can take it out of park. Don't try to take it out of park with your head under the dash.

 

LED taillights in a truck that didn't previously have them could cause this?

 

I noticed that I don’t have the cover that covers the column going down from the steering wheel. The cable would hang lower than my buddies which we are thinking would sometimes get caught by the brake being pressed eventually severing it