08 taco needs a mechanic recommendation

The one that's an odd color. The plugs have been on my bench for a week or so, so they have accumulated a bit of grit laying there. I pulled each connector on the coils when running and all affected the idle. So maybe it is the injectors? Can that be discovered with a scope?

 

It's possible that it's an injector, check the wiring to the injectors first. If there's even the slightest damage on the wiring it could cause an intermittent miss. But, it's weird that you're not getting a code. Usually even if it's a random miss you'll get a P03xx code (on ford's it's a 316) random miss. That one plug looks a little like there's been some oil intrusion in your number six cylinder possibly.

 

You're right, it does look like it. It's pretty crusty. I'll recheck the wiring tomorrow. I guess the only way to test w a scope is it'll tell me a weak cylinder.
Thanks for your help

 

Well, oil intrusion (if that's what it is) doesn't always mean a weak cylinder. It could simply be a bad seal on the valve cover around the spark plug cylinder. I see this a lot on our pursuit vehicles. I'm not as familiar with the Toyota engine as I'm sure I will be soon, but the principle applies. Sorry I can't recommend a mechanic in your area. That's one spot on the map I've been trying to get to and have not accomplished yet. Keep us posted on what else you find. Hopefully we can figure this out and save you some money.

 

I got a good recommendation for a shop that's close to me in Milwaukie Oregon.
Kempton's Vehicle Maintenance
9800 SE McBrod Ave. STE 16
Milwaukie, OR 97222-7352
(503) 653-3976

 

The only thing I'll say, as a mechanic myself, if they can't duplicate your concern and you have no fault codes you may pay for nothing. If you know how to duplicate the concern yourself see if you can get a tech to ride along with you and show him what your issue is. That way they can't just give you the old "we couldn't find anything wrong with it" and charge you a couple hundo for hooking up their scanner.

 

Okay, good to know. I know a guy here who used to have a tune up shop and retired. He still does carburetor restorations and has an old Sunn scope in his garage. I reached out to him...

 

I've heard of people having problems with iridium plugs. If you went back in with them again you could try swapping to copper. Then again many use iridium and love them.

 

Good idea, I'm gonna do that. Certainly can't hurt.

 

Changing from iridium didn't affect at all.

 

Check the PCV valve if you haven't already. I didn't have any hesitation but when I swapped it for a new one at 150k miles I had noticebly less engine vibration and a smoother idle. Cheap and easy to swap out.

 

Do another compression test, this time with all the spark plugs removed and the fuel pump disabled

 

If you do this, try the dry and wet test. Do the test as usual, dry. Then use a pistol oil squirter, squirt into the plug hole the exact same amount, one cylinder at a time, say 2 or 3 squirts. Then compare the readings. That'll give you a better picture of what going on in the cylinder. If any of the low reading cylinders now read high, you know it's the rings to cylinder seal. If it didn't change much, it's the valves. You could also do a cylinder leak down test if you have a tester, if not maybe one can be rented.

Just remember after wet testing it's gonna smoke like mad for a bit when you start it.

 

Thanks Waasheem. I guess I'll do that next. Replaced the injectors today, didn't help.
I've replaced the plugs twice
Cleaned the MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
New PCV valve
Injectors
Nothing has changed. My compression tests showed 4 at 90psi and 2 at 145.
It's been 100 all week in the PNW and I've done all I know to do. Guess it's going to a shop. So frustrating
Ray

 

Hopefully the shop you chose is good. I'm fortunate to have one, was a neighbor who moved but I still use his shop for stuff I don't want to do myself. Best of luck, let us all know the results.

 

So they hooked up their scanner and then took it for a test drive. Engine is fine but they think it's a vibration from the transmission or driveline. Said there'd be a fault code from the transmission so its probably driveline. All their lifts were full so I drove it home. There is a line of grease where the 1st u joint hooks to the transmission but I couldn't feel any slack in any joints. I've replaced several ujoints before in my 64 F100 but that was long ago. Is seeing the grease line from the rotation enough to say it's shot without feeling any slack? The carrier housing seemed a bit sloppy. Not sure how tight that should be. Any input greatly appreciated
Ray

 

My u-joints were dry and it caused more of a rumble strip vibration coming to a stop. I greased them and the vibration dissapeared. A hesitation or stumble would indicate a fueling issue to me. The fuel pump doesn’t throw any codes. Can you check your fuel pressure?

 

And when they are freshly greased the old grease that is forced out gets slung in a line across the underbody.

 

There are no zert fittings on the oem driveline. Can't be greased. I can't rotate the wheels and feel for grinding at the same time. 190k on truck. It'll be on a lift tomorrow, I'll check then

 

There are zert fittings, just looked. Took several pumps, like 10 each. Too late now but how tight should the carrier bearing be. I can lift it a bit