2nd gen, Anytime-On Rear View Camera with Switch on Dash mod

I will, if it's necessary, but I see no reason to just ignore all that nice hardware and wiring that's already there. I'm not just going to slap a 3rd party system on top and ignore the stock setup... gah, it's like putting a TV in front of your TV because you couldn't figure out how to make the input channel work...

 

I have a 2012 Tacoma , did all what the pics say to do. It works but when I go into reverse my rear camera don't go on. The camera only works when I use the switch. Can't figure it out.

 

Check your circuit against the simplified diagram I made in this post

I re-hosted the image.. didn't notice until now it had expired off Tinypic.

 

Switch: http://otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VVPZCCM-5RC (Rocker: VVPZCCM-5RC)(SPDT Switch: V6D2UHNB)

Here is how it looks right now:

(The IN1 connector is the one that has the rear camera wire in it.)



Success? Suggestions?

 

That isthe way hookeed upthe wires. Ill check cc the wire that goes into the reverse postition wire. . Thanks ill try it again. Ill give back that fixs it.

 

Looks right to me.

Essentially the same as my drawing above, except you have two status LEDs. (and, by your drawing, you've cut the red wire on the other side of the IN1 connector. Electrically, no difference)

 

Sub'd...awesome

 

Just used this one today on my '12

My IMMRYO mirror bracket would have prevented me from putting the switch by the mirror and I like it here better anyway.

Thanks for the easy to follow write-up!

 

I was talking with The Traveler yesterday about this mod, and he says the camera's power supply is 6 volts. This is a head-scratching surprise to me, since it makes no sense to have everything in the truck run on 12v except for one freaking thing! Wtf??
I'll poke around a bit today and see if I can verify this. Hopefully I can find a/the 6v source so I can do the mod without the timeout.
The timeout happens, according to The Traveler, because the 12v is cooking the camera, and the thermal protection is shutting it down.

Anyone be able to point me to the thread that discusses the 6v issue? Still looking......

 

Might stick a 3-legged 5-volt regulator in there, that 5 V might be enough to run the camera. If not put a diode in the center leg to ground - that'll give you 6.3 volts out.

 

I recall seeing it when I was looking for replacement cameras, i.e. a second bed camera, not monitors. I'll look around for the thread when I get a minute.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/147202-convert-12v-6v-oem-camera.html

and maybe

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ckup-camera-extra-loom-override-question.html
my thread but has a link in p#4

hopefully one of those will get you pointed in the right direction, would love a solution to the timeout!

 

So I haven't had a chance to dive into the camera mod, but while wiring up an override switch for my reverse lights I did find a couple of wires running ~5.5v with ignition on/engine off.
Since I'm in the middle of last-minute prepping and packing for an 11-day trip to the PacNW, I'm going to be brief.....and not responding for a couple weeks.

I don't remember the threads, and my brief time re-searching for them didn't yield any results, but in a couple of the threads about wiring up an override switch for reverse lights I found that the yellow wire in the (don't know names) connector shown is for the positive side of the trailer plug reverse circuit. While poking around in the connector, two of the pins (I'll revisit this in a couple weeks to let you know which ones) read about 5.5 volts. I suspect one of these pins is for the fuel level sender, as when I unplugged the connector I lost my fuel gauge.

Anyone know if it's possible to tie into either of these wires for a 6v feed to the camera override switch?

For those about to get on my case about posting derp, you can go out and poke around with a multimeter yourself. Driver's kick panel, second or so connector from the bottom, white -- just follow the harness that goes along the door rail and ducks through the sheetmetal under the driver's seat and then goes back to the tail lights. Unplug the connector and poke around with the DC voltage probe the connector half still mounted, leave the ignition on when you probe.
I wish I had a full, detailed wiring schematic of my truck......

 

I'd guess possible, if it's a ground reading system, but maybe I'm misunderstanding the last part of the thread: It's not like finding or making 5v or 6v is the problem right?

I mean what scarce things I've dug up seem to indicate that the mirror monitor has a screen saver built in, which I take to imply solid state programming. Powering it with 5v, 6v, 12v or trying to fry it with 24v shouldn't change the time it stays on, as it ticks out after 5 minutes- not when it's physically "too hot" or something as there would be variable results on a hot vs. cold day, direct sunlight etc.

So even if you jack into your fuel system, aren't you going to either still need a switch or time out like the rest of us chumps who just slapped it into a 12v line with the much easier add-a-fuse option?

I just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious, because lower voltage is as easy as finding a radio shack, but I can't imagine it would make anything better.

 

I've wanted this feature since I've owned my truck in '09. Just found this on the forum. Great site! sub for later.

 

Will using a 12v source hurt the display?

 

No. That's the source that it gets when you shift into reverse. This mod just provides it with an alternate 12v source when you click the switch.

 

Hi Com,
I just did that mod, and checked it again and again, everything perfect except the camera turned itself off after 5 minutes..!

 

well if you read you'll find:

 

This is not even close to resolve the problem.
Still shutting off after 5 minutes.

 

There's a time out on the screen, not sure why but it was mentioned on page 6 of this thread I believe.