0W-20 in Tacoma 2010 and up

Anyone running 0W-20 in their 2010 and up per the chart released by Toyota? Any issues, more noise etc?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/toyotaoilchart-capture-jpg.145799/

 

If I read this correctly I'm now supposed to be using 0W20 in my '14 V6, is that correct?

I wonder if it's still a 5K OCI or if it's been changed to a 10K one like the 4Runner.

 

Yes thats what I read too, I have the same 14' V6 too

 

0w-20? my oil filler cap says 5w-30

 

So here is that chart 1 year later with completely different info. Whats going on?

 

I run 5w20 in my 4 cyl but the oil cap says 0w20 or 5w20

 

My 2015 4.0 owners manual and even oil filler cap says 5W-30 and thas what I run. Mobil 1 5W-30.

 

This can't be right

 

When I had my Jeep JK, Jeep wouldn't put anything in it besides 0W20.

Talking with folks at the dealership and forums, this was due to Jeep looking to increase their overall MPG rating across their entire lineup. 0W20 nets a barely measurable MPG increase over, say, 5W30. When applied to an entire brand, the entire brands overall MPG average raises 0.5-1% and that's what they aimed to achieve.

Maybe Toyota was/is trying that too? Though it seems odd they'd apply that to existing models, but could just be for consistency.

I'd stay away from 0W20 in these trucks. My Jeep, with less than 70K on it, ticked and burned oil like a 400,000 mile Kia, such a joke. 0W20 has it's applications, but it isn't most vehicles like a Wrangler or Tacoma.

Once you understand why they recommend it (presuming it the same reason Jeep did), it's easy to make the decision on which weight to run.

 

thats exactly why toyota did 0w20 is for fuel economy.

Stick with what your manual for your truck recommends. I run 0w-30 in my truck, as it offers better startup and cold running protection vs 5w-30 and offers the same operating temperature protection as 5w-30.

0w-30 is NOT to thin for use in hotter ambient climates. 0w-30 can be used anywhere 5w-30 or 10w-30 is required.

 

My girlfriends 15 civic calls for 0w20..

 

I've always run 0W20. It really depends on climate. I live in Tahoe and the average year temp is 41. So 0W20 works best for me. Check this video out its really good at explaining viscosity and the difference between oils. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8

 

Nice charts. So apparently, you can run w20 in any tacoma v6 that is *not newer than* 2010.
FYI: If you can run a 5w20, then you can also run a 0w20. The 0 or 5 just means that the one with the lower temperature flows better at *low temperatures*.

 

run 0w-30, if your motor calls for 5w-30 (v6). When your motor reaches operating temp (which even in very cold climates happens pretty quick), the 20wt will be too thin to properly protect a the motor as its designed for a 30wt at operating temp

 

+1 to ALL of this.

 

Um, well... yes and no.
Multi-grade oil is created by adding special polymers to a lower viscosity "base" oil. Over time, these polymers begin to break down, which causes that multi-viscosity oil to lose viscosity.

So for example, you start off with an SAE20 oil, and add some polymers to it to make it into, for example, 10w30. As the polymers wear out, that oil returns to the original SAE20. For a 5w30, you start off with a lighter oil, like SAE15 and add more or longer polymers. For a 0w30, you start off with a still lighter base oil, like an SAE10.

The higher the temperatures, the faster the polymers break down.

So while yes, you are correct in that the Xw30's will all have about the same "hot" properties, this only really holds true when the oil is still new, so the reality is that you may be forced into a lower OCI by picking a multi-viscosity oil with a wider spread. It is generally best to pick the oil with the *smallest* spread that you can get by with.

Your next point might be something to the effect of the operating temperature being a function of the engine more so than the climate, which isn't entirely true. A number of important things to keep in mind;
1) The oil temperature is not necessarily the same as the *water* temperature and the water cooling doesn't go everywhere that the oil happens to be. The engine's water cooling is really limited to the upper cylinders and heads. The oil sits in the oil pan at the bottom of the engine.
2) The oil pan is a pretty big surface for cooling the oil, and is especially effective when the ambient temperatures are particularly low.
3) In cold climates, even the water temperature may not get up as high. When it is particularly cold out, I have a hard time getting my water temperature above the mid-80's. When it is particularly hot out, it easily climbs up into the mid-low 90's. I'm talking degrees C.
4) When it is particularly cold, it is not only harder to get it up to a high temperature, it also takes considerably longer to get to wherever it eventually gets.

In other words, in cold places, the oil is not subjected to as high of temperatures for as long of a duration, which means that the polymers don't break down nearly as quickly.

 

So what should I run here in Las Vegas where the summer is a hot 115 plus,and the winter is 30 ?

 

You change your oil more than once a year?
10w30 in the summer, maybe even 15w40, and 0w30 in the winter.

EDIT: I thought your numbers sounded a bit off, so I looked it up.
Vegas average winter highs are in the low 60's.
You never need or want to go less than a 10w30.

 

I change it in the spring and fall,Mobile 1,I have been using 5w30