1 Bored Clerk's Garage Built Camper

I liked the one we had, but it was made like 10 years ago, so probably made a little sturdier than todays stuff.

 

Haha, probably.

 

Just looked up the double wide one from Ozark Trail, holy crap, $80? Guess I won't replace it. The single wides seem to all be around $60 too. I'm cheap!

 

Yeah, everything is pricey nowadays. The double width was on my radar but it's packed size doesn't work well for me. Plus I can always toss in my roll a table if I need a second one. For just me, one table is fine as I'm a caveman and can eat standing up or off a plate on my lap if I'm sitting down. Or just the other side of the table from the stove. It's just not that hard.

 

True! I gotta plan for my wife to sometimes be with me on my trips (read as most of the time) so extra space is nice.

 

Didja finish installing the furnace yet?

If not, a couple of recommendations:

You *may* have issues with the 3d printed elbow. I was curious how hot the furnace would get if for some reason it got stuck "on" for any reason.



You might melt your plastic

Also, here's what the exhaust pipe measured when the above temp was taken:



I drilled a hole much larger than the exhaust, passed the exhaust through, then sealed with foam. You probably won't have an issue with yours. Propex also recommends running the exhaust and intake out the same side of the vehicle. I ran mine out two sides (passenger and back) and haven't had any issues yet. I've got the 2211, which is the 2200 with some internal changes that allow it to be mounted on edge or outside of the vehicle.

Another thing that I recommend looking at is the quiet ducting. The furnace isn't loud, but most of the noise seems to be from the air passing through the duct before coming out the vent. The stock duct is aluminum on the inside and it imparted a sort of whistling metallic sound when the furnace ran. You can get acoustical ducting which I feel makes a big difference in the sound: https://www.vancafe.com/2986112-p/2986112.htm

The other place that the furnace makes noise is outside. This may or may not be an issue for you. I recall seeing somewhere that a certain moped exhaust muffler will fit on the stainless exhaust line and cut down on the noise outside of the vehicle. I just realized that vancafe also sells it as part of a silencing kit: https://www.vancafe.com/2986113-p/2986113.htm

 

You know, you could always build one!

 

I got the whole stealth kit from van cafe. Intake and exhaust mufflers and the quiet ducting. I was planning to route the exhaust and intake to very separate areas of the camper.

Thanks for the temp readings! Heater stuck on is certainly not great. I would hope I notice before I melt my elbows. Who knows. Ill keep an eye on it and consider updating my elbows. I may have found all the pieces I need scattered throughout the internet.

 

NO! And shame on you for even typing that.

 

What about 2 supports on the side of the camper that attach to O-track with an adjustable angle for leveling if the truck isn’t. Sort of like ladder jacks but for your roll-a-table.

 

Yeah, it's a good idea. I've thought about options for that. I can still go there in the future but I just want to get up to a functional system quickly and this is it...for now. I know I don't like the roll a table for my current setup. And many of the reasons why can be solved with this new table. Super quick deploy is still the elusive unicorn but I'm sure I'll get there with what I learn with this new table and the setup required. It's a process.

 

We've got a little roll up table that looks very similar. I don't even know the brand. We bought it on clearance to use as parts for another project but the dang little table turned out to be so versatile for so many things. Not too big in storage but still big enough as a food prep station, dining table, or workbench. All very important functions in the wilderness......

 

Picked up new foam panels for my camper walls. Will be covering the front wall and both side walls (mostly).



The machines to cut this stuff and the process used is not super consistent. But I have two thicker panels for the front and three thinner panels for the sides so it'll look good. I asked for 5 panels at 1"thick. I knew this going in so Im good with it. I'm just sharing it so you know!



I also picked up 6 yards of this sunbrella fabric. I think the mellow green color goes well with the green/yellow interior paint. If I was smart, I would have ordered enough to do insulated window covers. But I'm going to consider this an opportunity to have some fun with contrast for those. Now I just need to pick up a few sheets of 1/4" plywood for the backer.

I'm still waiting for my new slider frame plates to be ready (should be any day), and my propane tank (next week), and my steel for new sliders (only takes a day, usually during these covid times) before I can really get my heater dealt with. Maybe my water tank too. I want all of that done before I make my padded wall panels because modifying them after they're made is much harder than making them correctly the first time.

 

I just got a quote for the 2x2x.120 wall steel tubing needed to build new sliders and the "shelves" from my rear bumper to the frame behind the rear wheels. $602!! That's just insane. I really want to get my sliders done so I can get my heater set up this year but I'm not sure I want to pay that price on principle alone.

I may see if I can use a smaller propane tank and just adapt it to my current sliders somehow and see if costs come down next year.

 

At least you don't have the materials already but have been sitting on them for 3.5 years now.
I bought weld on sliders and steel to fix the mounting points that got torched off the previous owner's truck and its just been sitting on a pallet in my garage for that long....

 

No but I do appreciate that timeline.

 

Well, if it makes you feel any better, I bought my sliders before I bought my 2015 DCSB and then sat on them (and the @1 Bored Clerk frame plates) from 2014 to 2019, so you still have time

 

Niiiice

 

I'm not sure if this idea would work, but I used lift off hinges and a hinged telescoping leg for my teardrop. Takes about 30 seconds to deploy if I don't have to fiddle with the leg length. I did get fancy with it, the table folds in half and is held shut with latches. I had to do this to make it easier to store in the teardrop since I didn't have a lot of space to work with. If I had the space, I'd just make it a regular table without the hinge down the middle.

You can see the leg and the seam down the middle of the table in this picture. The seam makes it so that the table surface isn't completely flat. I'm probably going to put a draw latch or toggle slide on the end to support it and stop the one half from sagging.


You can see the lift off hinge on the trailer and another view of the folding leg. The leg was pretty short so I glued and riveted a piece of dowel to the end to make it longer. It's got several inches of adjustment.


Here's where it sits in the galley when it's stored. It doesn't interfere with the hatch and sits wedged between the two chuck boxes and the cupholder/spice rack. It's not the best picture since I've got the dish towel sorta draped over it.

 

That's nice! I could probably so something like that if the heights work out well. I'll look into it. I really want to get the kitchen box sorted before winter.