$1000 to spend: Help a guy out...

Makes sense I just HATED putting it in, between cutting it exactly and panels being so fricken tough to put back on sometimes....

 

Yeah my panels are tough to get back on too. This is just what's between the inner door skin and the door card - neoprene, MLV, neoprene, CLD tiles from left to right. And there's more on the card itself as well as on the outer door skin. It's very effective. If I had to pick one thing to do again, just one thing, I'd probably just decouple everything as that one step made the most difference. You get thermal insulation from the neoprene as well.

 

Save it for his college.

 

Sorry I’m still a newb, by decoupler do you mean just CCF?

 

Even Don when he was running SDS suggested roughly 25% coverage...and he was in the business of selling damper. This approach has been demonstrated to be effective when using strategic placement of a good damper. Multiple layers have been demonstrated to be ineffective.

 

Yes - something like neoprene. This is the stuff I buy - nice price and it's great quality.

This is a great source for virgin MLV. Virgin = not recycled. The recycled stuff suffers from compromised integrity and can let off odors.

 

Noico sound deadening, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl for noise reduction. Dynamat alone won't do much for road noise, you need mass, hence the MLV.
Then look at a kenwood headunit and some replacement speakers. An idatalink maestro will integrate steering wheel controls and a back up cam

 

Awesome! Thank you very much, going to get some and improve coverage.

 

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Yeah, I went buck wild with butyl on the front doors ten years ago when I installed my stereo because I didn't really understand what I was doing, then got burned out and skipped the back doors. I put thick ass MLV all over the back where the sub and stuff goes though, mostly to kill rattle in all the plastic panels. Just lately I've been screwing with it again and decided to put the sticky butyl in the rear doors because it pissed me off every time I'd open/close them and hear the hollow ringing sound, only this time I half assed it and just put some strips on the outer skin. It had basically the same result as doing the fronts all the way, inner and outer panels. Got what I wanted I guess.

As far as road noise, I still have plenty. You learn through experience sometimes right? I don't think I'm going to dick with it any more, not on this truck anyway. I don't feel like doing what it really takes to address road noise, but hey, the doors are like bank vaults and I like to tell people they're bullet proof... "see?" *thud thud*

Sometimes they believe me, sometimes they don't.

I'm still not an expert on this stuff. I think Rob has a lot more experience with reducing road noise and what exactly needs to be done. I just wish they came from the factory with better treatment on all trim levels.

 

I gotta keep that one in mind. Knowing some of my knucklehead friends though they'd have to punch it to be sure.

Yeah man, it is a ton of work. Nobody should go into it thinking it will be easy, fast, or anything like that. It's cramped, tedious, difficult work. It requires piles of patience. Good thing is you can break it up. Maybe do the rear doors first - those will require the least work and are less critical than the front. You can do just one door, put it back on, then work on another door. Floors/back aren't that bad as they're less tedious, generally fewer details, etc (although removing the interior is no small feat). Roof can be done by itself too, but I haven't done mine and don't really feel like I need to. Not much noise coming from above & the 1st gen roof is surprisingly quiet.

 

it's always been a non starter for me cus i heard that dropping the headliner is best with the seats out... add that to a busy family life and it just comes back to 'forget it'. ugh. my 13TW5 is running about 15-20% due to cab resonance.

 

Yeah, that headliner thing may be true on later models. I never paid too much attention to details beyond the 1st gen. Even fully treated my SA10 shakes the snot out of stuff...like tweaks metal a bit. But my side mirrors don't budge

 

3x the PITA!

 

Update: After significant distraction and a few squirrels, I blew the budget all to 'heck' and broke the project into two phases. Everything for the audio except amp and subs are on order and arriving this week. Soundproofing for the doors is here and the project kicks off next weekend.

Phase one: Alpine head unit with 3 cameras (front, back, and bed rather than side) and the switch unit to control 8 accessories, includes a secondary fuse block for the eventual second battery. soundproofing the door as well.
Phase two: Floor, back, headliner, and rear molle behind the seat as well as the amp and sub.

Pics, product links, and thoughts/impressions to follow as I get into the project.
(I will add them to my build thread in my signature)

For the door soundproofing, I bought kill mat for the dampner and 1/4" closed cell foam for the decoupling layer.