12 tx pro build

Had some help today tearing the truck apart. Lower control arm mounts cut off but have a bunch of grinding left to do. Hopefully all my JD fab parts get here this week. Thanks to @81Trekker for getting everything shipped out.

 

Well I have most of the lower control arm mounts welded up and one side of the upper braces then I did this(see pic). Any ideas on what type of wire. Seems like it’s a “shielded” wire ( outer insulation, conductor, inner insulation, conductor) it runs out of a larger loom on top of the motor, down the driver side behind the upper coil bucket then back into a smaller loom that splits in 2 directions. Any help is appreciated as to what this wire is for? And how the repair needs to be made.

 

Wire is spliced and parts are going back on to measure how much needs cut. These old 36s I had sitting around should be a good baseline for measuring

 

Now trying to find a tire that will fit. With my current wheels all of the metric 35” tires rub. So I have to buy wheels with different backspacing or go to a swamper since they are the only ones who make a tall skinnier tire.

 

Where are you rubbing?

 

Tried a few tires one rubbed the Aarm and spindle gusset. And the all terrain rubbed the gusset only. Measuring from back of the wheel hub to inside bead of wheel these are 4.5” BS

 

Hm what size wheel?

I’m running 16s right now, 3.5 back space. With a 315/75 this is how close I’m getting with KM3s. This is without the rotor installed too. Can’t remember how thick the mounting space is, but with it the tire is kicked out a little bit more off the spindle.

 

16x7.5 with 4.5 bs. I don’t think it would effect it a ton but still running stock arms. I know rubbing on the spindle gusset wouldn’t change.

 

Wheel spacers or different offset wheels will be your answer.

 

That’s what I figured. My current lugs aren’t long enough for spacers and if I’m going to buy wheels I would like to find some bead locks. I found some accelera bogger knockoffs that come in a 35x10.5 that I might try until I can save for wheels.

 

Can’t do anything until an alignment so I decided to get rid of some low hanging parts

 

@WormSquirts @RonRon23 @ovrlndkull @81Trekker @EatSleepTacos what are you guys doing for front skid plate bracing once you cut off the low hanging front crossmember? I have an idea in my head but maybe you guys have something cleaner/easier

 

I'm doing a one off deal. I haven't done it gotta schedule it to be done along with the bumper.

Edit: as far as bracing goes I'll be making cross tubes running from the new raised front crossmember on the frame to the crossmember at the LCA.

 

I’d say new 1/4” wall brace between the frame and then throw a few pieces of tubing between that and the lca pivot thingy. Maybe use tube connectors so they are removable

 

Ok thanks. I have an idea to run 2 square tube supports welded from the JD cross brace up to the new crossmember bolted so the front bar can still be removed. But just thought I might be over thinking it

 

Sounds nice and simple to me. I’d run it

 

Made one up quick. Welded on the bottom and was thinking bolted maybe with a rivnut on top

 

I'm going to attach behind the new frame cross bar and then to the OE lower crossmember. I'll be modifying the JD front cross bar or deleting it.

 

My thought was with it under the crossbar all the weight(any thing I hit) will push into the bolted end at the crossmember rather than “pulling” on the attachment point if I mounted it behind.

 

I'm not too concerned with that if I hit something that hard to damage or rip some tube off the frame and crossmembers I've got more to worry about.