130 Amp Alternator Upgrade

Yeah, but just barely

That's the warm part of Canada.

 

You’re definitely correct, I have the exact same battery and only reason why I upgraded when it was time to the 130amp is because agm batteries like out northstar td require a constant 14v to get an adequate charge. And I noticed with my stock alternator it was a little low after a 15 min drive or so. Now With the 130 amp I’m having no issues keeping it topped up, and in the winter time I get around -20 below so I have a onboard charger to keep her topped up

 

if you don’t know how to change the serpentine belt then swapping alternators out for a bigger one is probably over your head mechanically.

 

It is but in the winter time I’m up North where it’s a bit more chilly

 

Way to be positive and supportive of other members!

Everyone starts somewhere. An alternator replacement, including how to route the belt, is a good learning experience and not extremely technical. This is the sort of job that instills confidence in folks who don't have a mechanics background.

 

Try to find a part number on your existing alternator. Then you can search and see if you can find it's spec's.

 

Can someone help us unschooled heathens with finding the part numbers for the harnesses? I’ve been trying with no luck.

has anyone else actually done the upgrade on a 2nd gen 4cyl non tow pkg from 80/90 amp alternator to the 130 amp alt. from the 2nd gen tow package one? If so, did you have to change the wiring harness pigtail?

I’ve already done the big three upgrade (in addition to the stock wires) to deal with the additional power.

 

I’m planning on doing it in the next month or so so I’ll let u know, when I compared the two alternators (80 amp and 130) they look identical and look like the same connector, I have a 4cyl 4x4 manual and I’m planning on getting the 130 amp from the v6 with the tow package. I’ll let u know how it works out, they look identical and even some parts stores have it listed that the rent 12453 (130) fits the 4cyl

 

Thank you luka for the help.

I’m on an advanced timetable, as I am medically reliant on oxygen, so I need to figure this out ASAP. All of my modifications are to run my oxygen machine while driving, and I have to have it reliable. My inverter shuts down once the amperage of the charging system drops below 9. Inverter shutting down kills the oxygen system. No oxygen is obviously not acceptable.

 

Looks like I’m going to find out soon. I have one on the way.

 

I'm guessing you mean drops below .9 amps? Maybe turning on the ac will bump it up. It makes the rpms jump up slightly. Or maybe it's defrost that makes rpms jump up. Do you use the stock Toyota inverter? There's an outlet in the bed. I think there's a write up somewhere on how to add an outlet in the cab.

 

I’m sorry, below 9 volts. Aftermarket inverter (pure sine wave inverters like the one I’m using are for more delicate electronics like computers, etc that require clean power). My machine uses 880 watts peak power. My truck was not equipped with the stock inverter.

 

If you try to do it from the top it’s impossible because there’s no room. If you drop the skid plate and do it from the bottom (laying underneath the truck) there’s tons of room.

 

Has your machine cut off on you or are you planning ahead wanting to ensure it doesn’t? You want it to run while driving, voltage shouldn’t drop below 9v while driving. Even a weak alternator should.

There’s options. Low voltage alarm would alert you before your machine turns off. You could add a pair of 6v industrial batteries connected in series for 12v. If you wanna go crazy, you could go to a forklift battery company like motive or enersys to get a massive battery pack and charger, or 110v onboard charger. Either of them could get you 6v batteries.

 

It cuts off when in park or idling at a red light. Low voltage alarm sounds when it cuts off.

 

Luka, I got the 130 amp alternator in today. It’s a used unit from Amazo n

 

Denso’s website says that the plug code on both are 917. So, hopefully it fits.

 

Something is wrong then. The existing battery or alternator or both are weak. If you have a multimeter, with the engine off, hook positive to positive negative to negative. You should see more than 12.5. If the meter has peak hold, set it for peak low. Start the engine, it'll record the voltage drop at the lowest point. I've seen new batteries do 10.4. Less than 10.1, you're getting weak. Leave it running, set the meter back to dc volts, what does it say? Turn on your inverter, what does it say? Are the battery terminals and posts clean? Even if they look clean, try using a battery brush and retest.

 

I’m gonna guess that the existing lead acid battery is cooked. I need to replace it anyhow, because evidently (According to crutchfield.com) you are supposed to use two exactly same deep cycle batteries in your dual battery setup. otherwise, the batteries will overheat the cable trying to equalize the amperage.

My front battery is a 700 amp lead acid battery from 2018. My secondary battery is a 2021 yellow top optima deep cycle that tested out at 1100 amps.

I would do the tests, but the batteries are 15 feet apart. I have a plug in (cigarette lighter) amp meter that tells me the voltage of the system at all times. It is fine as long as the AC and oxygen are not on at the same time while in park for an extended period of time or at a red light. Since I’m in the south, and the oxygen system will overheat and shutdown, both have to be on most of the time.

I’m going to replace the lead acid front battery today with another yellow top optima, and see if that fixes the problem.

 

last Tacoma alternator I did I unbolted what I could reach from the top, and inside the wheel well is a rubber flap, remove that (it has a couple plastic push pins), reach in and pull out the alternator, I dont recall if I pulled the wheel or not or just cranked the wheel hard left,