130 Amp Alternator Upgrade

Maybe it's time to see how many amps your inverter is pulling to run. I just can't imagine, even if you had a single weak battery, how voltage is dropping below 9.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-figure-out-issue.734702/page-3#post-26268522

You could look at the above thread, if you rig that power steering switch to stay on for high idle always, the extra rpms may be enough to keep voltage up.

You could look to see what the 4wd guys are doing when they run a winch.

If you have another car you can borrow the battery from, you could stick it in before buying another yellow optima, then see if voltage stays high enough to keep the inverter on.

Optima isn't what it used to be. My first red top lasted 14 years. Second one was a yellow, didn't make it 3 years.

If you go with two 6v batteries, you can charge them at home, then even if the alternator can't keep up, they should get you around adequately, unless you make long trips. They make them car battery sized, and like double tall. I'll see if I can get pictures of the double tall ones.

There’s pictures of the batteries. The ones on the left are regular 12v car batteries. The ones on the right are 6v. I’ve seen bigger 6v batteries.

 

Then here’s some of the really big ones. Of course these are 48v. But you could have them custom made for 12v, if you’re willing to have the entire bed taken up by a battery. They cost thousands and are super heavy.

 

I replaced the old ford lead acid battery with a yellow top. This time they let the electrical system go cold (not using memory retaining power supply thru the obd2 port). That initiated a system relearn procedure. Between the second yellow top and the relearn procedure (not totally complete as of yet), the truck is holding its own running the entire system. It seems like the new battery was what was needed. Up to 13 amps now that the older yellow top has gotten to recharge.

Advance auto did check 80 amp alternator, and it was good.

Also, I fixed a mistake on my big 3 install. I thought it was battery to body ground that needed upgrade, instead it was battery to frame. Corrected that issue by grounding it to the A/C condenser.

 

Washeem, the issue is that the old front (Ford branded) battery was a traditional lead acid battery. Not a deep cycle one. It couldn’t recharge fast enough.

 

It sounds like you got it figured out, great news.

I recall reading something about people putting in a diode or something to keep from overcharging or undercharging their agm battery.

A few experiments you could try, for if you get the low voltage alarm again. See what brings rpms up the most while idling. Turning the steering wheel, defrost, or ac. That might bring rpms up enough boost the alternator enough to raise voltage. Or you might need to just rev the engine.

 

AGM battery + voltage booster upgrade:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

I think I would feel more comfortable changing my alternator than tricking the vehicle into high idle. Thank you for your idea, though.

 

You’d only have to upgrade one wire if anything. A properly functioning alternator isn’t going to blow coils or burn wires no matter it’s rated max output. A high amp alternator doesn’t “push” amps into the system and overload things. It produces only what the electrical systems draw, up to that max rated output

 

I'm not sure you need another alternator, or is you machine still cutting out while idling? I read through the above link, or one similar, I think the voltage boost is only .5v but necessary for agm batteries. Whatever you decide to do, it sounds like your good now, and we won't need to hear later you became ill due to lack of oxygen.

 

As for the 130A upgrade:
I have already done the big three upgrade in addition to the stock wiring being left in place. But I haven’t fused the additional 0 Awg alternator to battery wire, yet (which it seems that needs to be done just in case the alternator goes berserk). I have the 250A fuse blocks to be installed.

Today I found that the 130A alternator plug is the same, and serpentine belt width is the same. I already have the 130 amp alternator sitting in my house. I’m gonna take the 130A alternator to get bench tested at Advance Auto, since it’s a used 70k miles stock Denso unit purchased from Amazon. I don’t want to install it until it is confirmed to be functional.

 

Washeem, I see your point, I just am very cautious about modifying the stock voltage. The Amps are limited by the fuses, but what limits the voltage to the rest of the vehicle?

I’m operating with a very limited amount of knowledge of the electrical systems of vehicles. I went to school to be an auto tech, but that was a long time ago, and the electrical side was not my forte. I’ve done quite a bit of weekend wrenching, and have installed several stereo/ subwoofer systems in my and other vehicles. But, all of the calculations of what current was needed were done by other people. I was purely the installer.

I did read the article, and I did go to the website. They are back ordered on the adjustable model. Also, I’m not trying to dismiss the issue, I’m just very cautious. If I cook this truck’s electrical system, my insurance is going to tell me to buzz off, that they won’t cover it, and I’ll be up the creek without transportation. I appreciate your help.

 

The 130A alternator tested out as good. We also put it side by side with an 80A, and it’s dimensions are almost identical. I think I will be installing it on Monday.

 

Okay, I tried it. It’s a negative. The bolt holes do not line up. See photo below. The left one is the 130A, and the right is the 80A.

 

Dang it. Since it's out you can bring it to a friendly auto parts store to have it tested

 

i upgraded the alternator on my XRunner, to the 130amp and it was plug and play.

 

Have you tried just having the existing alternator overwound? Most alternator shops can take a core and rebuild with extra coils and larger or extra magnets. I took my Chevy, and Ford alternators and had them both overwound for emergency vehicle/ambulance almost doubled the output from just the one alternator. Cost about $140 for a 285 Amp overwinding on the Ford alternator. If you are looking for some extra power with minimal headaches give it a look.

 

Afternoon,
I thought I replied to this thread ( and specifically you Old Man ) but there is a factory 130A alternator for the 2tr.
its listed in this thread as well, Part is available from Rock Auto, and you can even swap out the diode to charge AGM batteries.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...grade-for-agm-batteries.701909/#post-25018517

The only thing that's holding me up is that I'm and Toyota shops round here say that the P/N for the extended bolt you need is "NFG" so until I pull out the old bolt, and see what the diameter, thread pitch length etc... it is i'm stuck as this is my Daily and I cant spend a day or tow dinking around trying to find the correct size bolt.

if you do figure that out ( or actually order the toyota one ) it would be greatly appriciated if you could reply back so I too may try it.

Best of luck with whatever decision to go with.

 

Is it possible you have the part number you used?

 

I appreciate all of the replies.

I already have had my stock alternator tested, and it was good. The local dealer acted like there was not.

I already ordered an aftermarket 200A alternator from bnrparts out of California for around 212.00 all new, built in the USA after I posted my earlier message.

I did not know there was a 130A specifically for the 2.7L.

I don’t know if I have ever seen an alternator shop. So I didn’t know you could get them overwound.

 

just realized the thread was for a 2.7.