'15 SR5 DCSB Wind Noise (SOLVED!!!!)

Something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977

 

What does it do at the clips where the rubber seal clips to the door? Did they just cut the tubing and start again on other side of it?>

 

Went to dealer a few weeks ago and they cut a small hole in my door seal and ran soft fuel line down the center (inside) of it to make it thicker. Truck is very quiet now with no wind noise at any speed.

 

They did that to the same door seal pictured above?

 

Looks like 3M outdoor mounting tape ... something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Outdoor-Mounting-Tape-411DC-SF/100575385

 

Did you use 1/4" or 1/2" OD drip tubing?
Did you notice any creases (caused by the additional pressure) on the rubber gasket on the cab frame after you tried that solution?
Did it work?

 

Yep. The seal opens up and they slide the fuel line down it from top of the window all the way down. Took 20 mins. The old 4Runners ha a door seal that looked like it was tuned just like this.

 

Here is a bad picture. Dark outside right now

 

wow! thanks for posting pictures and the fix for the community!!

 

1/4" and it's only been a day since I did it. This one section of freeway on my way home from work is notorious for creating the sound and it didn't do it today on my home but I wouldn't consider that conclusive evidence. I'll report back after a few more days of driving. Oh and no creases that I can tell so far.

 

Quick summary:

Jerimys2000: Added 7/16" rubber tubing between door frame and "outside" of the door gasket. Tubing held in place with something like 3M exterior mounting tape. Results: quiet.

gkomo: Added 1/4" drip tubing between the flaps or lips of the door gasket. Results: Seems OK after short test, but TBD.

rottenpixies: Beefed up the seal on the cab gasket. Now considering using one of the door suggestions.

RedRed: Inserted tubing into the hollow portion of the door gasket itself. Results: "no wind noise at any speed".

So, although there are differences in the placement of the tubing, all methods increase the thickness of the weatherstripping / gasket at or near the top of the door. One major difference is the time it takes to apply the "fix" for each method. Gkomo's may be the quickest, and Jerimy's may take the longest, with RedRed's somewhere in between.

My thanks to all who have made these suggestions and reports! Hopefully Toyota will have an "official" fix soon (but, since it will cost them a few $$ per truck, we may not see it unless lots of drivers complain).

 

Awesome! Thanks for trying these different methods and reporting back. Very excited to try beefing up the DOOR gasket like I did to the cab gasket. After the cab gasket didn't fully alleviate wind coming into the cab noise I suspected I'd have to try the door gasket next.

Anyone who applies these different methods please report back on what has worked for you!

 

Thanks for this bud

 

Another good idea man

 

I didn't come up with mine, toyota engineering did. So really you're the one with the good idea

 

My '15 has started doing this as well. Glad I found this thread. It is quite annoying.

 

Test Status & Progress

Since my DCSB Tacoma seemed to have objectionable wind noise from both the driver's side window and the equivalent window behind the driver, I tried several of the abovementioned methods to eliminate the noise.

First, I put some sticky foam weather seal tape along the insides of the front and rear door gaskets, above the windows. Noticed some noise reduction.

Then, Jeremy's comments suggested the wind noise could be eliminated, by putting a 7/16 rubber tube between the door metal and the door gasket. I tried doing this on the driver's side door, without using as much double-sided tape as was used in his example. There was significant noise reduction, but the results of my kludge were not pretty. I was a bit concerned about both the appearance and the possibility of water leaks from the area above the tubing. I also was reticent to remove the door gasket, and "do it right" per Jeremy's description. So, I looked at some of the other suggestions here.

Next, moved the tubing to "between the flaps", as gkomo illustrated. This morning's drive was encouraging, in that the driver's window noise was indeed reduced from the "original" level. It was tolerable! Noticed some increase in noise with wind gusts, but that was expected. But, the tubing did not want to consistently stay in place with repeated door openings (I did not use glue, because I did not want any solvent on the existing door gasket).

Since all the above experiments had at least a somewhat positive (and encouraging) result, I used RedRed's suggestion next. Lubricated some 1/4 inch drip tubing with Armor All (or similar, slippery protectant), made a tiny incision in the top left (as seen from inside) corner of the door gasket, and shoved the tubing through the tunnel until it ended up at or below the side view mirror level. The result is a "stiffer" seal in that area, that cannot collapse as much as it did previously. It is difficult to see the "fix", since it is hidden inside the existing seal, so cosmetics are excellent, and there is no need for adhesives or sticky tape. Inserting the tubing took a bit of pushing, but worked quite well ... much less work than Jeremy's example.

I also replaced the foam WX tape on the back door seal with tubing, per gkomo's technique, and will modify that later, if it works too!

So far, so good, but have not tested the most recent mod ... am keeping fingers crossed.

Materials used:

• 5/16" clear, vinyl tubing for initial experiments.
• 3M Outdoor Mounting Tape for initial experiments
• (Forgot brand name) adhesive foam weather stripping tape for large openings, for initial experiments
• 1/4" drip irrigation hose for most recent tests. (This stuff is around $5 - $7 for 50 feet, at your local Wally World)

 

Glad you found a method that worked for you! Like you said, I did not use any adhesive but i'm not having as much of an issue with the drip line popping out of place.

 

Same here!

Took about 30 mins start to finish.