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16 lug nuts torque spec

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by stephensg66, Oct 26, 2017.

  1. Oct 26, 2017 at 12:05 PM
    #1
    stephensg66

    stephensg66 [OP] Member

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    What is the torque spec for the lug nuts on a 16 tacoma with alloy wheels?
     
  2. Oct 26, 2017 at 12:05 PM
    #2
    trdNick

    trdNick Odie

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    83 ftlbs
     
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  3. Oct 26, 2017 at 12:08 PM
    #3
    tonered

    tonered tacorider

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    +1

    Noted in the Owner Manual along with a bunch of good info.
     
  4. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:12 PM
    #4
    Dirty Harry

    Dirty Harry Well-Known Member

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    Dealer over torqued mine to 95 ft/bs. Either that or my torque wrench is off.
     
  5. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:22 PM
    #5
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    torque to tighten and torque to loosen do not always match

    It takes a lot more torque to start to move a fastener at rest than a fastener that is moving. That is why when you properly torque something you have to keep the fastener slowly moving until the wrench clicks off. If it stops, you have to back off and start over. It's the difference between static and dynamic torque.


    95 sounds about right. when you need to use your feet and a hammer
    because the stock lug removal wrench bent trying ti get lugs off, then
    you know the dealer put them on too tight
     
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  6. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:23 PM
    #6
    Unchained 5150

    Unchained 5150 Well-Known Member

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  7. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:29 PM
    #7
    Dirty Harry

    Dirty Harry Well-Known Member

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    I figured +10 lbs was probably better than -10 lbs anyway. I feel like I should probably recheck everything this weekend.
     
  8. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:34 PM
    #8
    phsycle

    phsycle Well-Known Member

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    I think some of you are overthinking it. Yes, specs are 83 ft/lbs. But key is consistency. Different torque wrenches have some margin of error. Doesn't matter though--just torque everything the same. Uneven torque causes more issues than bolts tightened slightly more than spec. I just set mine to 90 ft/lbs.
     
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  9. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:38 PM
    #9
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Retire from work, but not from life.

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    Your torque wrench should only be used to tighten/torque, not used as a breaker bar/removal.
     
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  10. Oct 26, 2017 at 2:03 PM
    #10
    Dirty Harry

    Dirty Harry Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I agree. I really need to get a breaker bar, but its one of those tool's I always forget about. I'll try to remember to pick one up next time I'm at the hardware store.
     
  11. Jul 14, 2019 at 7:45 AM
    #11
    Red_Fox25

    Red_Fox25 New Member

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    Where? Been going over the owners manual for the last half hour. It's not under wheels, tires, tire rotation, or the maintenance categories.
     
  12. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:06 AM
    #12
    TailHook

    TailHook Weakness Is A Choice

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    upload_2019-7-14_8-6-19.jpg
     
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  13. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:09 AM
    #13
    Vbpiper

    Vbpiper Well-Known Member

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    Or here:
    Screenshot_20190714-080826.jpg
     
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  14. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:20 AM
    #14
    tonered

    tonered tacorider

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    Thanks for the assist! :hattip:
     
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  15. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:23 AM
    #15
    Captqc

    Captqc Well-Known Member

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    Before I retired part of my job was to get test equipment calibrated and I can tell you from experience that torque wrenches are very difficult to keep calibrated. Most people don’t read the instructions which tell you to back off the tension when storing your wrench. Also cheaper wrenches like Harbor Freight and Craftsman would usually be rejected by the first calibration cycle (1 year in our case) as not serviceable. Quality torque wrenches cost $300 or more and even some of those failed quickly. We got to the point of buying a torque checker and put in place procedures for the guys to test the wrenches before use. When they failed we trashed them as it was cheaper than repairing them and paying for recalibration.
     
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  16. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:31 AM
    #16
    tonered

    tonered tacorider

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    I just had to instruct our folks at work about backing off the torque setting. :frusty:

    That said, I have a 20yr old HF clicker that continues to agree with my digi torque adapter. Since, it has been good enough to both clear up / prevent pulsating rotors and not strip a single screw going into aluminum threads repeatedly (6,000mi Ducati services).

    Care and learning are important.
     
  17. Jul 14, 2019 at 8:34 AM
    #17
    TailHook

    TailHook Weakness Is A Choice

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    Truth. I have an old Snap-On QJR-3200 that has always been stored like that, and it's been dead nuts every time I've had it checked.
     

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