1911 BS thread

Anyone a trigger job expert? I know the basics but I'm having a weird issue and I can't find any other examples of it on the net.

When I press down hard on the thumb safety on my 1911 with the hammer cocked, as if shooting with a vise grip on the gun, it sometimes seems to cause the sear to move to the point where it's slightly disengaged from the hammer. The gun will not fire unless I manually push down on the hammer, which causes a faint click, which I assume is the sear re-seating in the full-cock notch. I don't recall having this issue before today, but it's been a while since I've messed with it. The only changes I made today were smoothing out the sides of the trigger bow a bit, and bending the disconnector leg of the mainspring forward a bit to increase the pressure on the disconnector and therefore the back of the trigger bow. I was having some problems with the trigger hanging on the underside of the grip safety, preventing reset. I solved that issue. I don't know if this is now a new issue or something I noticed during the hundreds of hammer cycles I went through today testing the reset issue.

I inspected the thumb safety lug and didn't see any abnormal wear or peening. The only thing I could find that looked odd was some wear on the hammer strut, at the apex of the loop. It was wearing somewhere during the firing cycle, possibly on the slide, so I stoned it down even with the hammer.

Considering the only resulting changes to the action parts today is more pressure on the disconnector, I'm confused as to what might be causing this issue. Before I buy a new thumb safety and fit it, I figured I'd ask around. I've found a similar issue where an oversize safety can kick the sear out of the hammer notch when the safety is applied, I can't find any instances where the safety in the off position causes interference. And again, it's only when I mash down on the disengaged safety and try to pull the trigger.

Thoughts?

 

My 1911 that is almost done being repaired. Had to put in a new frame since it was twisted.

 

Does the grip safety reset behind the trigger bow correctly when you release it? Often a click from the grip safety coming off is it releasing tension on the trigger.

Bigger issue is the grip safety moving the sear, those to parts shouldn't meet, the thumb safet should control the sear, the grip safety should just hit the trigger bow.

 

My carry piece and a recent build, 10 yard target.

 

My carry gun and a gift for my son.

 

Right side looks like Tru Ivory grips.

 

Yeah. Some type of fake ivory. They are around 20yrs old and I don't remember who made them. I've thought about upgrading to real ivory many times and just end up spending the money on other guns. The one on the left is giraffe bone.

 

Ivory is cool and all, but there are so many other exotic scale materials available these days that I don't think I'd ever feel the need to actually go with genuine ivory. Lot of other stuff available that isn't questionable, and is less fragile.

Tru Ivory makes some pretty decent alternatives, though.

 

I don't mind real ivory but it has just never seemed a priority on this gun. It gets treated rough at times and has lots of wear. I keep thinking I'll replace it with one of the newer 70 series commanders with better grips. I just keep spending on other stuff though. The last two guns were a Cooper and a Freedom Arms so I probably will upgrade my carry gun at some point.

 

I thinned the grip safety arm just a touch (basically just removed the KG gunkote I put on) and also shortened the arm just a bit. I have a bit more pre-travel now, but the grip safety won't bind on the trigger anymore. When I was mashing the thumb safety I think I was coming off the grip safety a bit and it was being popped up forcefully enough to interfere win the disconnector I guess. Now that the grip safety is shortened, clearanced & smoothed, I can't replicate the issue.

 

I do love this 1911. It started out as a Springfield GI. I've done some work to it, and had multiple 'smiths do more. Learned a lot along the way.

 

That is a messy stacked tolerance problem. As long as both the grip and thumb safety work your good to go.

 

Nice, new signs, what else?

 

I probably won't remember everything...

Factory Springfield GI
Hand-fit oversize barrel bushing
Front sight dovetail milled, Yost front sight
Rear sight milled for a Novak sight
Lowered & flared ejection port
3-hole trigger
Wilson beavertail grip safety installed (scariest thing I've done on it)
Wilson hammer
VZ slimline grips
Slim bushings
Flat MSH
KG Gunkote finish

 

I know nothing about the 1911. I am thinking about selling a Beretta Nano and a Tristar t100 to fund this endeavor. The only handguns I own are CZ and some copies of the CZ. Can someone help me pick out a good 1911 for 500.00 or less?

 

I know of no 1911 that retails for <$500. I would be highly suspect of any that do. Even the Springfield MilSpec is $600 or so.

 

X2
You'd likely have a difficult time finding even a used 'good' 1911 at that price range, unless you happen to stumble across an amazing deal on sale someplace.
Lately even the Taurus PT1911's I've seen sitting in the 'used' display cases have been in the $600 range.

 

Springfield GI or a Rock Island Armory,, government model (5" barrel), I wouldn't touch anything else for that money.

A good 1911 is a $2k or more gun, and you can spend 4k without trying to hard. The $800 to $1200 range is the worst value for money though.

The good news, is that if you get a good slide and frame you have a whole new hobby of tinkering and swapping parts ahead of you

 

So educate me on a good slide and frame. I don't mind tinkering.

 

Springfield, Ruger, RIA, all make a good budget gun. Kimberly series I (as opossed to series II) are good, but more money. ParaOrdinance single stack guns are okay.

Taurus, and a whole host of other low priced guns are junk.

The slide and frame should be forged or machined (not cast and welded together from halves) and should fit snugly. If there is noticeable play between the two you're going to have trouble. Stainless is more expensive, but not an issue, aluminum for the frame is alot more money, and has a shorter lifespan.

I'd check out gunbroker.com, and your local gun shop and pawn shops. Nothing wrong with buying used but read this first: http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2005/10/checking-used-1911-with-purchase-in.html?m=1