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1995 v6 4x4 alternator question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by guinness, Jun 7, 2016.

  1. Jun 7, 2016 at 8:20 PM
    #1
    guinness

    guinness [OP] Member

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    1995 dlx v6 4x4, No issues/running fine until a couple days ago when I got rear ended. battery light is on and I know that my alternator is running weak, but would it make sense that certain things are not working because of that? no power windows, no oil temp gauge, no idle tachometer, no front driver turn signal. no AC/heat. All these things worked before I got rear ended, and it was not that hard of a hit (10/15 mph) checked all the fuses/battery.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2016
  2. Jun 7, 2016 at 10:21 PM
    #2
    Digiratus

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    Get it checked man. Make sure the alt output is close to 14 volts when the engine is running. I'm guessing it not and the accident is not directly related.
     
  3. Jun 7, 2016 at 11:27 PM
    #3
    CodeSeven

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    very possible it was just a coincidence. the bump jogged the battery which broke a cell. and the alternator was weak to begin with.

    but also check and make sure the terminals didnt break a little loose.
     
  4. Jun 8, 2016 at 5:18 AM
    #4
    guinness

    guinness [OP] Member

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    I had the battery checked at a shop and they told me it was fine, no broken cells. my alternator is charging at 12.5 volts so I know that needs to get replaced. Im wondering if a weak alternator and a not fully charged battery would cause all the electrical issues that I'm having?
     
  5. Jun 8, 2016 at 10:25 AM
    #5
    Digiratus

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    Yes. I suspect all those other electrical symptoms will go away when you replace the alternator.
     
  6. Jun 9, 2016 at 6:00 AM
    #6
    guinness

    guinness [OP] Member

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    So I replaced the alternator and it was driving fine for 25 miles, electrical problems didn't go away but the battery light went off. Then It started breaking down on me. Started, drove, and when I made it to around 40/50 it starts to cut out and wants to die. If I pull over it'll still idle and not completely die but when i drive its sputtering and has barely any power. Could a new alternator kill an old battery? or should I be worried that I got a faulty new alternator?
     
  7. Jun 9, 2016 at 3:05 PM
    #7
    Digiratus

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    Check the voltage output man.
     
  8. Jun 9, 2016 at 4:15 PM
    #8
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    Everything but ac/heat should just run off battery power. You have problems
     
  9. Jun 9, 2016 at 6:15 PM
    #9
    CodeSeven

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    your truck starts, right? if it starts and your battery is showing 12.6v disconnected, it's fine. I think there's a short somewhere that is only active when the vehicle is turned on.

    maybe some wiring got pinched in the "Accident"? ive seen something like that before. grounding out 1 power wire saps all of the power from every other neighboring circuit from a certain point like the main power relay, where the engine and cab wiring would be partitioned.
     
  10. Jun 10, 2016 at 1:00 AM
    #10
    Wyoming09

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    I wonder if the fuel pump might have got knocked loose from being rear ended .

    Or all the sediment in the tank got sucked onto the fuel pump sock

    Might even be rust knocked loose clogging the filter .

    strange things do happen fuses loose in the sockets can be a issue at times
     
  11. Jun 10, 2016 at 6:58 AM
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    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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    A new alt can be bad. I just put one in my mustang, 14.4v, 5 minutes later and 0v. So put in another new one....

    It happens.
     
  12. Jun 10, 2016 at 7:09 AM
    #12
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Betting damaged wiring from the accident.

    Look for a broken ground.
     
  13. Jun 11, 2016 at 3:18 PM
    #13
    ashleyroachclip

    ashleyroachclip Well-Known Member

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    Betting bad NEW alternator.
     
  14. Jun 16, 2016 at 11:51 AM
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    guinness

    guinness [OP] Member

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    First alternator was bad, second alternator is only charging at 12.48v.... gonna try a remanufactured from the dealership and see if that's any better.
     
  15. Jun 16, 2016 at 11:57 AM
    #15
    Bxnanaz

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    If the new one isn't better, you can put your money on a short. Shorts can certainly draw the voltage down. Check for pinched wires where the damage was done if the new alternator doesn't work.
     
  16. Jun 16, 2016 at 12:13 PM
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    ashleyroachclip

    ashleyroachclip Well-Known Member

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    12.4 is less than battery voltage.
     
    Bxnanaz likes this.
  17. Jun 16, 2016 at 12:38 PM
    #17
    NvrSyNvr

    NvrSyNvr Well-Known Member

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    The voltage on mine is usually 14.1 to 14.2 with the vehicle running. I liked this article for some of the common sense approach to troubleshooting battery and alternator issues.
     
  18. Jun 16, 2016 at 3:09 PM
    #18
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    Depending on battery it could be lower.
     
  19. Jun 16, 2016 at 4:01 PM
    #19
    ashleyroachclip

    ashleyroachclip Well-Known Member

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    Agreed,
    A fully charged battery is usually 12.5 volts.
    And while i do have my 95 .5 in the drive way, i have had more than enough to drink.
    I do not remember if the toyota had an integral voltage reguator.
    The wiring tho is impossible to screw up, but if you have bad connections, or burnt wires , it will not charge .
     
  20. Jun 16, 2016 at 6:27 PM
    #20
    CodeSeven

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    yes, they are integral. but they can be changed separately if you want to go that far and know that is the issue. otherwise you cant return an installed part.
     

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