1996 Tacoma Ac Problems..

So when we first got the truck the ac didnt work. After trying to recharge it several times and realizing it had a leak, me and my dad installed a new AC evaporator core. It hold pressure just fine (45psi, max recommended on can) But the air is barely cold. I could have it only full blast while driving and it isnt even cold enough to keep me from sweating. what could be the other issues?

 

Did you completely evacuate the system before refilling it with freon?

 

uhm.. no? is there a drain plug? I took out all the pressure but none of the actual liquid.

 

OK, evacuate means run a vacuum pump to remove all air and moisture from the system. The vacuum is not from vacuum cleaner, it is what is it, a vacuum (like in space) up to -28 inch of mercury. You need a special AC vacuum pump and set of hoses (with gauges) - all available at Harbor Freight Tools. If you did not do that you have a mixture of 134A, some water and oxygen and nitrogen in your AC system. Last three are not good for cooling.

 

Exactly as @RysiuM stated, you need some very specific tools to work on A/C systems. Take the truck to an A/C shop, my local shop charges about $80 to refill a closed system (no leaks). It would cost me about $50 in freon alone if I were doing this myself without the tools required. If you have to ask if there is a drain plug, you are over your head.

BTW, welcome to TW

 

Okay I understand what you are saying now =)

 

Here's a video my buddy Sean and I made for AC recharging. In this particular video, we didn't do a full recharge but topped off the system. However, we cover a lot of information in this video, including what to do for a full recharge, so I think you'll find it very informative and will help you get your AC back running well. If your system was open to the atmosphere for a decent amount of time, I would suggest replacing the receiver/dryer because the desiccants inside could have become saturated from the moisture in the air. If you do replace the receiver/dryer, the FSM recommends that you add 20cc or .7 fl oz to the system. You can just use a 20cc syringe and add the PAG oil right to the receiver/dyer before you connect it up to the lines.

I suggest you start over by having the system evacuated by a shop and then put the full weight of refrigerant recommended on the tag under the hood which is 1.54 pounds. If you don't own a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set, I'd just let a shop do the whole evacuation and recharge for you. Using those DIY recharge kits you buy at auto parts stores can work but the best way to do it is by using a manifold gauge set so you are seeing what the pressure is on the low side and high side to determine if your AC system is working right.

Here's the video and good luck:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zlRE0Zeeyrc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Oh shit dude, you're suppose to pull a vacuum to check if it holds pressure.

 

Yes, I am aware of that know =) I am pretty generally experienced with engines (few dirt bike and other types of rebuilds) but had no idea i had to evacuate the system. This is my first vehicle (Im 16 =) ) so I am still learning. When i Scrounge up enough money (My shop said 200$!??) I will bring it to em (hopefully a cheaper shop).

 

I had a cracked pipe connecting evaporator few years ago. I learned the process, bought a vacuum pump and manifold set from HF for total around 100 dollars (Sale plus coupons). Used it only once on my truck then.
My AC is still stone cold, total cost was less than what AC shop quoted me and still have pump and manifold set like new in the box (used only once). But when I will ever need to do AC work I am set for life.

 

I was going to mention something similar but the manifold gauge set and vacuum pump I bought were much more than than $100 for the set. I think I spent closer to $300. But, even at $300, the set could pay for itself in two uses. If you own multiple vehicles and like to do your own work, a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set is a solid purchase.

OP, consider this option before paying a shop to do it for you. If you own a vacuum pump, it could also let you know if you have a leak in the system. If you pull a vacuum using your pump and manifold gauge set, shut off the pump and close the valves, and then it sit for around a hour, you shouldn't see your vacuum level lower. If you pulled to 28 inches of mercury and came back an hour later and saw that it's now less than 28 inches of mercury, you have a leak somewhere in your system. Now you need to find the leak. You can add UV dye into the system either with a dye/oil injector or you can use one of those refrigerant cans that has dye already in it. With the system partially charged with refrigerant and with dye circulating, you can use a UV light and special glasses to check all your connections for leaks.

I'm assuming the price the shop quoted you includes checking if the system has a leak before they recharge it, but you might want to ask. But, if the system does have a leak, they are going to ask for even more money on top of the initial quote to address the leak. Anyway, you can easily see how this can get more expensive.

 

I went for HF A/C R134A Manifold Gauge Set (60 bucks now, I think it was close to 50 that time) and HF single stage 2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump (90 bucks now, was on sale for 70 when I got it) and I used 20% coupon for each one. But even today with no sale you take 20% coupon (buy it on two separate purchases) and you pay $120 plus tax.

I was thinking about getting 2-stage pump but I "cheap out" not being able to justify the double price, and actually brand new single stage pump pulled -28 (of course if HF gauge was accurate). Anyway "the proof is in the pudding" - AC is still stone cold and I never touched it since then. Kind of shame, as my A/C pump and gauges were used only once ever. I would play with it again, but that darn A/C doesn't want to break.

 

Wow thanks for all the help guys! Another quick question since I would rather ask it here then make a whole new thread... Recently my truck has been bogging and stuttering from about zero to half throttle, but once i get past that it flies (4 banger not really =). From everything ive read I have figured its the TPS sensor, any other thoughts before I order one?

 

Any CEL on?

 

Nope =(

 

Ordered a TPS up. Only 20 bucks so its worth a shot =)