1996 Tacoma- Sell or Repair or ?

I've had a 1996 4x4 Extended Cab Tacoma since ~2003. It's been a great daily driver truck and I've always taken good care of it, preventive maintenace, no hard wheeling or towing or anything. Fast forward to about a year ago (305K miles on the odometer then), I start getting a little steam in the exhaust at cold starts. It goes away after a few minutes of running. After much diagnosis and experimentation, it seems the head gasket has a small leak that only leaks when cold into cylinder 3. I drove it like this for a while, and ultimately added some flavor of the Bars Stop-Leak into the cooing system, which seems to have stopped the problem.

So I have a decent truck with a fairly high mileage engine (about 315K now) with a problem. The truck needs some medium sized work: lower ball joints, inner tie-rods, steering rack bushings, maybe a front wheel bearing. Could really use a paint job and new seats too. Interior is really clean, and everything else works and drives nicely. I just drove it 900 miles without any problems.

If you were in my situtation, what would you do? I'm hesitant to do an engine swap as I don't have the tools or experience to do that size of job, and a shop wants more than the truck is worth to do the work (7K for a Jasper Reman, aobut 2K of that is labor). I don't mind doing the suspesnsion and bearing work myself. A friend suggested having the head gaskets replaced on the vehicle. But is that throwing good money into an older engine, especially if either head is warped or cracked? Should I just drive it as-is? Or sell it now? This is the reality of having an older vehicle, hoping some of the forum members can enlighten me if they have been in my spot before.

Note- I have another Taco, 1999 with 140K miles that's in great shape, which is my backup/weekend rig. I also have a first right of refusal on a higher mileage (286K) 1999 that's in decent shape (already had head gaskets done) for about $5K. I don't know the history as well on it but seems to be well taken care of and it runs well except for a rough idle.

Thanks for the responses!
Mike

 

Keep it.

 

Fix the head gasket and keep driving it

 

Jesus Christ do not get a Jasper engine.

 

Not only because of the 5K price tag (!!), I dodn't feel good about this option. Only upside is the 36 month warranty which includes all labor for full replacement. I've heard mixed review on their products.

Have any rough prices for replacing head gaskets? How long is the bottom end good for on these engines? I'v changed the oil every 3-5K for the entire time I've owned her.

 

If they offer a lifetime warranty with unlimited mileage, I would not consider this option. I am willing to bet there isn't a plastigauge, a set of feeler gauges, or a deflection bar torque wrench to be found in Jasper's rebuild facility. There is absolutely no quality control, and it shows in their products.

You will, more than likely, go through endless frustration and end up selling the truck if you choose this option. I am not "trolling", but I am really trying to offer you some sound advice... Don't do it. I really am just trying to be helpful.

 

Well OP just where do you live ??

I would bet there might be some forum members close that would be willing to give you some help with the head gaskets or engine swap.

Lots of different ways you could approach this .

Buy a used engine and rebuild it then swap with what is in there .

Just swap in a used engine .

Funny how quite a few shops suggest this route rather then replacing the head gaskets

Just pull the heads and see what you have go from there.

Maybe someone had a bad experience .

I can`t say at this time having bought a Jasper Engine vehicle about 10 years ago still working just fine around 250,000 miles later.

Maybe I was just lucky I can`t say

It would not be my choice to go that route unless all the other options did not work out.

 

Thanks guys for the advice so far- some of my thoughts, in no particular order-
-If I keep the truck, I prefer to keep a Toyota-built engine in this thing, whether it's my current engine, a used pull, or JDM motor (a little nervous on the JDM option). I haven't heard a lot good or bad about re-man's, but trying to keep an open mind on them.
-Regardless of quality good or bad, a Jasper at 5K plus 2K of labor, is way above what I want to put into this truck. I can get a 1999 with 286K miles in better shape for $5K at the moment.
-I'm strongly considering the "run it until the head gasket totally fails", then do a head gasket replacement (and likely refurbished/new heads, and valve adjustment) at that time.
-However I like to be proactive so maybe I should tear it down to the heads and see what I find soon.
-How strong is the bottom end on the 5VZ's? I'd hate to put new head gasket in and then lose the engine 10K miles later from another problem. I guess that's the gamble i take with any used engine.

By the way, I'm in the Auburn, CA area if anybody out there has some experience with this. Beer is on me!

 

If I was not about 100 Air miles west of New York City .

I would be glad to help out .

 

Yeah that's one hell of a drive LOL. I apreciate it though!

 

People have spent more on less. It's up to you.

Do you like the truck, do you have an emotional attachment to it?

Sounds like you just need a head gasket and normal wear and tear stuff (ball joints etc). These motors can last 2 or 3 times this long, so you could easily do the work and have it all work out for you and make a million miles.

I don't see a reason to go for a whole motor swap unless you get in there and find other internal damage. If that's the case, maybe cut you losses and toss the truck off a bridge, or grit you teeth and find a wrecked donor truck (wrecked chassis usually means the engine is still good, hopefully...) and for for a motor swap. Having a donor truck also means youll have a bunch of spare parts so youll have to make fewer trips to the autoparts store.

 

jbrandt-
Thanks for the tips. I have a little bit of an attachment- I bought the truck my 2nd year of college, it's been with me for ~13 years so lots of memories! After reading other threads on here, I'm realizing people do much larger repairs ($$$ wise) on these trucks than I expected, and the resale value has certainly gone up a lot, especially in the West.
Even if I pay a shop, the head gasket replacement would be under $1500 and I'd be good to go. Ball joints, CV boots, maybe wheel bearings, etc I'm comfortable doing in my driveway when the weather dries out.

 

Instead of a reman engine look at a low mileage JDM. Swap on your parts. Much cheaper alternative of you do it yourself. Mixed bag of opinions but I'd rather do a low mileage replacement. I spent 1k in part's in the front end. 600 of that was coilovers with Bilstein's. IMO it's worth it to fix the front end. Shops will charge you over 1k and tell you you need a steering rack . They drive like new with new ball joints, tie rods and suspension. Keep the TRD

 

I myself will be swapping out heads this weekend. Did a compression test, which passed with flying colors, (No.3 cylinder was a little low, 174 I believe.) So we thought it was the AI manifold gasket. As we started taking it apart, we couldn't figure out why there seemed to be coolant in the throttle body. Turns out, there is a Intake Air Control Valve gasket on it which was also worn. Unfortunately, the problem appeared to have gone on for a little too long, still leaks coolant into the engine. So replacing the heads this weekend. I myself thought about if this was worth it, as it has a couple front end issues, too. But I know when I get this all fixed up, which is really inexpensive and easy to work on, I will be glad I kept it.

 

Also, Carparts.com has a head gasket set available for $60. I've used it.

 

Thanks. I did some of the front end stuff on my '99 (Bilstein 5100's w/ OME springs, new ITR's and Lower Ball Joints, new CV axles) and got it running like a top. It was pretty easy once I got it apart. Doing it a second time seems like a piece of cake! This '96 might actually need a new rack, it leaks a little around the connection to the steering shaft. Still steers tight though.

Would love to see a few pictures of it as you take it apart. My biggest fears are breaking studs on the exhaust manifolds and the like. Are you flattening the top of the block with sandpaper on glass or a stone or anything? Are you changing the heads themselves or just gaskets? Adjusting valve shims? I need to check the IAC coolant path/area, I always wondered if it was contributing to the water in the cylinder. I once parked the truck for about 8 days, filled the entire cylinder with coolant! That was the one and only time it ever got that bad. It has ruined a couple of spark plugs, but seems to be running nice again now that I'm driving it a lot. The Bars Stop-Leak might have something to do with it too.

 

is it the stock exhaust? I've taken the exhaust manifolds off a few times. Never broke the studs, but I've had the studs thread out. So I would advise having replacement nuts on hand. Replacement studs also wouldn't be a bad idea. I have had situations where I stripped the nut and and damaged the stud. Obviously throw some rust perpetrator on a couple days prior.

We are going to see about what exactly is getting swapped when we get there. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell if it's just the gasket or a cracked/warped head until we get to it. I'm not too familiar with the whole process, rather relying on a buddy who ha done this once or twice, so don't know about the shims.

I'll do my best to take pictures, my buddy might just be using me to hand him tools as he fixes it, so we will see what I can do for you. going to be a long day tomorrow.

 

that Rust "perpetrator" is some good shiz PB blaster does a great job on the exhaust studs. Leave it overnight and it works even better. I replace the studs and bolts anytime I remove those types of things. Better to replace those than the head. Good to have a friend with mechanic know-how. That's how I've learned a ton of working on things myself. Good luck!

 

Stop leak is for emergencies. It does more harm than good long term

 

Different people are at the level of emergencies well before others !!

As far as block and head sealants there are some really good products on the market but they are not cheap and you need to follow directions .

Doing or having head gaskets done might not be a option for everyone at certain times .

I know I have been there a time or two .

For Sure not the best option but one does what one needs to.