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1996 toyota Tacoma 2.4 pickup I DROVE TO STORE CAME OUT DEAD NO SPARK

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by oldguy128, Sep 13, 2020.

  1. Sep 14, 2020 at 4:23 PM
    #21
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    no codes send
     
  2. Sep 14, 2020 at 4:32 PM
    #22
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK, I did not know that, my 1996 even has one, where is it, how do I check it, have my good fluke meter, it's old, but it works and it has had sentimental value, I used it since 1983 it paid for its self 10,000 times over, plus given to me by an old friend who passed on and misses him every day
     
  3. Sep 14, 2020 at 4:39 PM
    #23
    JudoJohn

    JudoJohn Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that is it. Did you notice the grey plug that's not plugged into anything?
     
  4. Sep 14, 2020 at 4:39 PM
    #24
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    An OK new question, I removed the plug off the crankshaft sensor with the key in run mode, I measure zero voltage to any of the 3 wires that go to it, is that normal but do measure ohms yikes I forgot it was either 220 ohm or 2,200 ohms on the sensor from the middle pin to either of the other pins I already called a local garage I GIVE UP AND FEEL DUMB being electronics was my work all my life?
     
  5. Sep 14, 2020 at 4:48 PM
    #25
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Now I even discounted the battery, remove ICU the computer cables re put them back they look clean it above the glove department 2 screws, one 10mm bolt to get to it, put it back together, reconnect battery still dead weird how it happed just drove to the food market came out dead, I have a car, but hell miss my pickup, I'm going for more bladder surgery soon if I pee myself I would rather do it in my truck LOL I never smoked, but its the number one reason and damn it's painful, wish they would make the camera smaller getting in there Stop smoking you will thank me, I assume its second-hand from, my co-workers
     
  6. Sep 14, 2020 at 6:08 PM
    #26
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What is the Cel?
     
  7. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:27 PM
    #27
    BikerinBlak909

    BikerinBlak909 Well-Known Member

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    JD Fab LT kit 3" lift spindles Fox 2.5 x 10" dual rate Deaver F67 SUA, 9" shackles 8.4 prerunner rear end with 4.10 33 AT3 wildpeaks McNeil Fiberglass fenders PRP comp seats Doug Thorley long tube header K&N CAI
    Check Engine Light
     
  8. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:30 PM
    #28
    BikerinBlak909

    BikerinBlak909 Well-Known Member

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    MAF is on the intake tube after the filter. Lightly spay it with brake clean. There's a small wire, looks like a halogen bulb, if you break the wire its no good
     
  9. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:36 PM
    #29
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yes it been that way for 5 years when I bought the truck where does it go what is missing the guy who owned it bought it off a guy who messed with it I regret buying it but why would that now cause my issues?
     
  10. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:42 PM
    #30
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    check engine light is on when I'm in run mode with key, I see it on the dash, I ran the reader it says a number that I was told means nothing found wrong there is also nothing to delete either
     
  11. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:43 PM
    #31
    JudoJohn

    JudoJohn Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure, but I think it is either an air temperature sensor, or air volume sensor. BTW- they make a MAF cleaner spray. Use this NOT anything else.
    Also, did you clean the crank sensor?
     
    KdF likes this.
  12. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:44 PM
    #32
    JudoJohn

    JudoJohn Well-Known Member

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    What was the number?
     
  13. Sep 14, 2020 at 8:48 PM
    #33
    BikerinBlak909

    BikerinBlak909 Well-Known Member

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    FYI CEL is always on when key is on and engine off. If you did get a code what is it?
     
  14. Sep 14, 2020 at 9:00 PM
    #34
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK new question, 4 pins on DIST two are AC that is made by a magnet passing a coil with the rotor, as a signal back to the computer, I got that

    Two other wires, one should go to 12 volts through a resistor old school thinking, it did, and the other I assume is to the igniter which shows the

    Voltage change is pulling the primary of the coil to the ground, that seems maybe working correctly, I have to be careful with high voltage now, I have a

    Damn pacemaker that could go crazy and kill me now, it's depressing, but it is what it is, one last check if they don't take it, possibly 12volts to the coil is

    Dropping when I crank it, due to high resistance in the wiring, so what I see at the point C at the igniter is fooling me

    I now want to check that one pin for hard DC, so my question IS THERE A RESISTOR FROM BATTERY PLUS TO POWER THE DIST, OR NOT OLD

    SCHOOL THERE WAS? I can't find a good wire diagram
     
  15. Sep 14, 2020 at 9:40 PM
    #35
    TnShooter

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    oldguy128[OP] likes this.
  16. Sep 14, 2020 at 11:45 PM
    #36
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  17. Sep 15, 2020 at 10:25 AM
    #37
    JudoJohn

    JudoJohn Well-Known Member

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    Here are some pics of my engine compartment There are 3 ground areas noted- 1. on firewall, 2. Left fender near battery, 3. Lower front intake manifold.

    Also, you can see the plug for the sensor in the air filter box.

    i hope this helps.DSCN0358.jpg DSCN0359.jpg DSCN0360.jpg DSCN0361.jpg DSCN0364.jpg

    DSCN0362.jpg
     
  18. Sep 15, 2020 at 8:08 PM
    #38
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  19. Sep 15, 2020 at 11:33 PM
    #39
    oldguy128

    oldguy128 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm 99% sure its the computer, it's not able to scan, its toast I just hope it's not more
     
  20. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:53 AM
    #40
    JudoJohn

    JudoJohn Well-Known Member

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    I would check all my connections, make sure that something isn't either unplugged or a plug not fully seated.
     

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