1996 Toyota Tacoma won't always start or make a sound when I turn the key.

Fairly regularly when I go to start my truck, I turn my key and nothing happens. Maybe a click, but it doesn't sound like my starter is engaging. This usually happens when it is cold. After I turn the key 2-5 times the starter will engage and my truck will start. I recently have changed the starter contacts, then the whole starter and the battery. These parts did not fix the problem.

A few other things. Ever so often when I put my key in the ignition and turn the beeping sound will not turn on when it is supposed to, nor will the red lights on my dash (Air bag, seat belt). These may be a symptom of the issue. Does anyone have any suggestions or other possible things that could cause this to happen?

Thanks,

 

They next thing I would try, is changing the starter relay. its in the hood fuse box.
Easy to do, and they are plentiful at the pick/pull yards for around $7. I always carry a spare.

 

Does the starter relay work like a fuse? Because my truck eventually starts. It just takes a few turns of the key. If the start relay was bad, would the truck be able to start at all?

 

no. the relay acts as a switch. terminals 86 and 85 control a pin that is usually connected from 30 to 87a (most cases 87a is not connected or is missing, providing an "off" state). and when power runs through 86/85, the switch engages and then gives power to 87 instead of 87a.

the magnet connected to 86/85 that is used to control the pin may be very weak or damaged from old age, and may not engage when given power. this is a very likely issue. you can test this with some extra wires by taking the relay out and connecting power to 85 and 30, then put a 12v light on 87 and ground it to the chassis/battery, and then grounding terminal 86. it should turn on (or even off) when you send power through 86/85


your relay should look like this. the terminals are numbered differently, but it's still the same concept.

 

This would lead me to believe that it's in the ignition lock cylinder where the key goes in.

 

I'd look close at the battery cables. Are they frayed is their allot of corrosion on the cables, are they making good contact with the battery post?

 

and if i had been paying attention to begin with, i would have said the same thing. or rather id say the electrical switch behind the lock cylinder.

@MrRiverMan is right, these are obvious symptoms of the lock cylinder and/or electric switch in the back.

on a rare case, the spade on the back side of the cylinder that turns the electrical switch may actually be broken off but somehow working still (not likely)

or the switch is bad and has some fried internals. (more likely)

when you get the switch out, go ahead and try to start it by sticking a flat head in the slot and turning it. if symptoms continue, there you go, thats your problem.

 

I agree that this is good to check as well. There should be two posisitve leads - one to the starter and one to the main power box with relays/fuses/etc under the hood. If you have a poor connection of one or both of those lines - most likely at the positive battery terminal connection - you could experience those symptoms. You can get all sorts of weird electrical problems from a bad ground as well.

 

Thanks for your responses. I never received an email for most of these responses but I think the ignition might be the culprit. The starter relay didn't fix my problem. I did take a look at my ignition cylinder, it looks burnt. So if I was going to change the ignition cylinder and the electrical switch, are those the only parts? Because it looks like the area that is burnt is attached to my steering column.

 

Looks like you found the root of your problems. Look at the parts and replace anything that looks burnt. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/symptoms-of-a-bad-ignition-switch#b

 

I'm having similar issue and am leaning towards ignition Switch aswell, but not 100% sure it's problem but atleast that general area of truck. It's '01 2wd Taco, truck would click once but not turn over. Battery is 6 months old at most. Thought it was starter. I replaced starter with new. Same thing still did not start on until maybe 5th turn of key, just 1 click each time. Tested Battery - Ok. Tested Alternator - Ok. Tested old Starter - Ok. I notice it does start if I turn the key long/hard enough, my ? would that be "Ignition Switch" OR "Key Cylinder" Or "Both".

 

Let me know if ignition Switch cures your ailment.

 

I think I'm going to change the white switch at the back, because the ignition cylinder seems like the pivot point. I need to find the schematics for that area of the truck. It seems like most of the area is the housing that holds the ignition cylinder, I don't know what else would be in there. Also, today my truck didn't want to start even though the starter was engaging. I'm not sure if it is another symptom of the electrical switch or not.

 

what else will you need? there's 3 other parts in that area. the housing that holds it all, the key switch, and a small bar that fits in both the key switch and the electrical switch. keep this in mind when swapping things out. you may need them.

here's a pic of the small bar.

 

Here is what the new ignition Switch looks like, bought it at Auto zone $80. Hands not Replaced it yet cause as I was sitting in parking lot looking at your posts/thread for insight, (with truck running), I turned/cycled key my truck on and off about 20 times with no issues (new starter still in place). So who the hell knows lol. Good luck with your issue.
One thing I did do was take the battery terminals off when I tested battery an before putting back on cleaned off posts and inside of terminals of the red anti-corrosion goop that they sold me when I bought new battery, my thinking now seeing as it started with no hiccups is that now I may have a better connection- better electricity transfer from battery to alternator to starter, more juice to turn over starter. Like I said who the hell knows.
Next step is putting old starter back iN and see result.

 

I am going to give this a shot. Thanks for you help. I will look out for the connectors.

 

@Duc01748Man My truck does not start about 5% of the time. Most of the time it works, but sometimes there is no response when I turn the key. So who knows.

 

Yeah that's what I've been getting within last week or so, now ahe (after) sitting without running for about, 40 minutes it's starting to get that, second or so delay I was getting before. when I turn the key - starter kicks out to engage ("the click") - second or so delay - then engine turns over. I feel like its a power issue somewhere but don't really want to hook up the new ignition Switch, and it doesn't cure problem (I can't return, although I'll fight like hell), then I'm out money and still same issue.

 

You can physically check the switch look for burn marks, even OHM it out to see if it is really the problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB-aULIjiog

 

I was able to replace my ignition switch this afternoon. Hopefully that was the issue. I couldn't see any damage on the old one, but who knows. Anyone changing this in the future. Instead of taking off the housing, which is held on by a clamp secured by two bolts that look like cones, which makes it hard to disassemble. It seems like you would have to use vice grips to take them off. I disassembled the ventilation underneath the driver side dash. Although it was hard to get to the screws holding on the ignition switch, it seemed easier than messing with the security bolts.