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1997 4WD 2.7L - No Fuel Pressure After Headgasket Replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by natecastar, Jan 21, 2025.

  1. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:45 AM
    #21
    TnShooter

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    Not if you jump the relay.
    We are bypassing the crank signal with the jumper.
     
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  2. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:46 AM
    #22
    ControlCar

    ControlCar My Moto: Help & Learn…period.

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    sorry my man
    i will let you work!
     
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  3. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:46 AM
    #23
    TnShooter

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    No.
    You are jumping the White/red and blue wires.
     
  4. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:49 AM
    #24
    TnShooter

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    Also, the key needs to be ON with the jumper in place to get power to the pump.

    I’d place the jumper in first, then turn the key on.
     
  5. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:50 AM
    #25
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure which wire is white/red is it this middle one? or the bottom left?
    upload_2025-1-22_13-48-54.png
     
  6. Jan 22, 2025 at 12:00 PM
    #26
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah I had it wrong let me try again, just realized that when I tested the relay that would have told me which one to jump too which is the +B and FP connection that only had continuity when I powered the STA and E1 connector.
    upload_2025-1-22_13-59-40.png
     
  7. Jan 22, 2025 at 12:03 PM
    #27
    TnShooter

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    Correct.
    Those are the ones you need to jump.
     
  8. Jan 22, 2025 at 12:12 PM
    #28
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No dice, jumped those two connections then turned key to on and no pump sound and no fuel pressure.
    Last time I replaced the fuel pump the assembly was pretty gunky or rusty, would I be better off replacing the entire assembly?
    I don't know how much fuel is still in the tank I think I'm going to try removing the bed to access the tank this time.
     
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  9. Jan 22, 2025 at 12:52 PM
    #29
    TnShooter

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    I like to be through, I'd want to go to the pump and test the blue wire for 12v with jumper in and key on.
    You can also test the blue under the front seat at the BN1 connector.
    Key on, Check the blue wire at pin #9.
    12v Key on.


    upload_2025-1-22_15-50-37.pngupload_2025-1-22_15-51-35.png
     
  10. Jan 22, 2025 at 12:53 PM
    #30
    TnShooter

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    Before we get too far ahead of ourself.
    Do you have 12v on the White/Red wire at the C/open relay with key ON?
     
  11. Jan 22, 2025 at 1:03 PM
    #31
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    Yes, jump the white red and blue wires with the key in the ON position then take a plastic hammer and hit the fuel tank a couple of times, not enough to dent it but hard enough to jar the stuck armature on the pump, if it still does not operate replace the pump.
     
  12. Jan 22, 2025 at 1:45 PM
    #32
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can't find the BN1 connector, but I got the plug on tank removed not sure which pins to test.

    I do have power to white/red and to the blue with jumper. No luck beating sense into the tank with jumper and key ON.

    My guess is the top two pins?

    PXL_20250122_214355545.jpg
     
  13. Jan 22, 2025 at 1:50 PM
    #33
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes 12v to the pump, top left is ground top right is power from C/O Relay.

    All points to bad pump right?
     
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  14. Jan 22, 2025 at 1:59 PM
    #34
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Only connector under the seat I found was this that's unplugged, not sure what it is. Didn't see any other connectors under the seat maybe it's under the carpet no clue.

    Was able to take the connector off the tank with a bit of trouble, that release has to be squeezed hard, was squeezing with one hand then had to get my other hand in to squeeze some more.

    PXL_20250122_213828570.MP.jpg
     
  15. Jan 22, 2025 at 2:19 PM
    #35
    TnShooter

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    If you have power to the pump, then it looks like a bad pump to me.


    If you and me were technicians, we'd hook up a 5A test light to the pump wires.
    If the light comes on. Call it done. It needs a pump.

    Be neither of us are "techs" and we aren't getting paid to do this job.

    I'm comfortable throwing a pump in it at this point.

    Only other suggestion is to test the voltage between the pump connector power and ground. Just to make sure the ground wire is good.
     
  16. Jan 22, 2025 at 2:23 PM
    #36
    leid

    leid Well-Known Member

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    I took the carpet out of my '97 3.4L Taco Xcab long ago making the plug under the seat easily visible (below).

    BN1 plug under Driver's Seat.jpg
     
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  17. Jan 22, 2025 at 5:11 PM
    #37
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    New fuel pump and assembly installed, getting fuel pressure!!

    My fuel filter is leaking I think I need new washers. Where can I get some new ones without ordering a new filter?

    PXL_20250123_010716656.jpg PXL_20250123_010720651.jpg PXL_20250123_010708889.MP.jpg
     
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  18. Jan 22, 2025 at 5:18 PM
    #38
    TnShooter

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    Best I remember, the fuel filter is a flare fitting like brake lines.
    No washers that remember?
     
  19. Jan 22, 2025 at 5:21 PM
    #39
    natecastar

    natecastar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember what year it changed, but for this one it's a banjo fitting and the fuel filter is located under the intake manifold. Each end of the filter has 2 crush washers, am I okay to just remove and retighten the crush washers or are they single-use?

    Here's the filter with the mount and crush washers:
    https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B001DRNOL6
     
  20. Jan 22, 2025 at 5:26 PM
    #40
    TnShooter

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    Your local hardware store should have assortments of copper washer/gaskets.
    I have reused them before. I never had much trouble reusing them.
    But I also haven't reused them more than a couple times.

    A "trick" is to snug the banjo bolt up, and peck/hit the head of the bolt with a hammer.
    That "crushes" the washer more. Then go back snug the banjo bolt up once more. As hitting the bolt made it "looser".
     

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