1997 4WD 2.7L - No Fuel Pressure After Headgasket Replacement

Yeah I messed up, I misplaced the washers on the backside and had 2 washers stacked on eachother and no washer on the other side. Fixed that and I've finally got the truck to start!

Now I guess I make a new post for the new issues? Won't idle, if I hold the pedal down it'll keep going but while I do that the engine doesn't sound great and I pulled a misfire on cylinder 1 code. I'm so happy to have it up and running after all this work though!

 

You can swap the coils.
I believe each coil has 2 plugs it feeds.
But it doesn't matter. the coils are the same.
Swap the coil and see if the misfire goes to cylinder 2 or 3.

Same thing with the plug.

 

Excellent Ingenuity!!!!!
Kudos!!!!!!!

 

Found injector for cyl 1 was loose (clips broke on 3/4 of the injector connectors)
That fixed the not idling issue but misfire 1 code was still there

Swapped the coils and misfire code is gone completely?

Let it run for a while and warm up, having some issues when trying to open the throttle from under the hood
https://streamable.com/8t6moe

I'm able to give it throttle from the pedal and pressed it harder a few times to clear the bit of hiccups it had but I'm not sure if there's some sort of tightening or adjustment I need to do on the throttle cables or that screw that touches the plunger thing.

 

What does A/T P mean and the bottom right shows wheels, is it in 4WD?

How do I disengage the 4WD, hold the break and get it into the neutral slot?

I tried putting the car into drive earlier and it didn't move, when I moved the shifter back to park it made a grinding noise for a short moment.

Warming up the truck now to check transmission fluid.

 

That light illuminates when the transfer case is in neutral as a warning that the truck can still roll even if the transmission is in park.

 

Pull all the way BACK on the small shifter until it stops.
Then press the shifter to the LEFT until it stops, and the press UP.

The Green Wheels Light should go off.

You need to be in the 2H position.

 

That worked! Had to move it up and down a few times, move out of park and back into it, then it let me move left on the small shifter wouldn't let me before.

Park actually seems to work now, but when I shift into Revers or Drive the truck chokes out and dies. I was able to put it in drive and move forward about a foot before it died. Park/Neutral it continues to idle without issues.

 

You have any codes?
Is the CEL on?

 

I'll double check here in a moment, but I didn't see the CEL on until it died, it seemed like the light was only on because the key was in the ON position.

 

The light will come on all the time in the ON position if the engine is NOT running.
It goes out once the engine starts. (unless there are codes)

 

Okay, no codes tried hopping between neutral and drive a few times while it choked out but didn't let it die.
This looks to be related to the issue I was having in this video: https://streamable.com/8t6moe
I don't know what the plunger underneath the throttle does but in other people's videos it looks like it touches the adjuster screw but on mine there's a gap. No clue what it does, is there a method to clean that out or is that a part that should be replaced?

With the truck in park if I press the pedal it dies too.

 

Watch this video.
Good stuff starts at about 2 min mark.

I know it says 2004, but basics are the same....


https://youtu.be/GVWCCjZBfGM?si=cKex4giI7H2ZgX2N4

 

great vid
thanks for sharing

my vacuum plunger doing same thing after IAV cleaning(never touching)
now i know i can adjust the same

my throttle cables(i have not touched/adjusted) look as loose as video's
tech never adjusted
(surprisingly, my 96 2rz has the same 2 cable system)

guessing that slack is normal?

 

Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF cleaner spray
Cleaned throttle body with throttle body cleaner and new gasket
Cleaned IAC with throttle body cleaner and new gasket, tested IAC open/close function by adding 12V to center pin with the ground on either other pin for open/close

Going to try adjusting the throttle opener thing from the video, grabbed a bluetooth OBD2 scanner so I can see RPM looks like it's idling at about 1400/1500 that seems high from what I remember it should idle around 800?
Not sure about the slack either, not sure if I need to adjust that too?

 

Idle will be 1,200 or so on a COLD engine.
Then drop down once warm and in closed loop.

I’ll check for you in a bit.

 

The throttle gauge shows 11 at idle, could I have an issue with throttle position sensor?

Not sure if I should adjust the throttle position plunger stop until my idle is under 1k

From under the hood of I gradually turn the throttle the rpms rev up, if I move it quickly it stutters and does a kind of blowback then revs up high?

 

Fuel trims? idle/ and mid throttle

 

I think these are the trims, idle mod throttle and idle again

 

Maybe that's not mod throttle only says 16%, I need to add some fuel to the tank and I'll try mid throttle again tomorrow