1998 2.7L problems and fixes

DrZ I understand i dont have to remove the cover to do the pumps.. But i already need to replace the oil pan and may even to the head cover gasket as well. As the timing cover has molded parts that could be screwed up or cloged with stuff... i was just thinking of replacing it, but due to the cost and possible not needing too.... dont want to take apart everything here. dont have the time. if i did then i might as well rebuild the engine or drop a new one in with parts for fun or to learn some more...

again more to come with pics...Gimp

 

quick question, anyone have any idea how to get those damn screws out of the oil pump? %$#$^&^%$$ wtf! short of starting to strip them... used PB blast, letting sit for a bit... also having to go out and get some metric wrenchs... should have done this from the beginning....Thanks.

Gimp

 

I mentioned earlier that you may need an impact screwdriver to get those off. I ordered a few of the screws from Toyota so I could match a screwdriver to them before I try to remove mine. The slots are about 7mm across, so I think that would be around a #3 size screwdriver.

The other thing is Phillips head screwdrivers are designed to cam out when a lot of torque is applied. These Japanese cars usually use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) screws which actually have a slightly different shape to the screwdriver. The blades are a little wider, so they don't cam out when you apply a lot of torque.

I was going to order a set of impact screwdriver bits that fit JIS screws that include the #3 and #4 sizes like this:
http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/impact/431801/flypage.tpl.html

Then either use them with a ratchet/socket, or use my impact screwdriver with them.

You may be able to get them out with a good fitting Phillips head bit and an impact screwdriver.

I wish I had completed mine already so I could tell you what works for sure, but it looks like you'll be the one telling us what finally worked.

 

I got the impact screw driver about an hour ago.... one you use with a hammer... comes with #2 and #3 bits... i think its a 3... we will see tonight... Def will be replacing ALL the screws with new ones, regardless of the shape of them... 17 years on is a LOONNNGGG time...

Gimp

 

see attached photos... long story short, if i think i see what is the wooddrift key right... its in half, with the one part for the timing chain still there and the other part for the harmonic balance, uh.. well... GONE

so remember my first post on here.. the click click sound... well what i think happened was that the crankshaft bolt came lose just enough to cause a woble which cracked the balancer and wooddrift key... so the question now becomes this... to truely replace that key, i think i need to take off the timing chain cover, chain, gears, etc and install a new one.... MUCH more time and indept then i was just hoping for...

or, do i really need the wood drift key, try to install the new balancer with it torque down (not what i am thining) but asking anyways..... this presumes the oil pump is ok... also is attached the bits and pieces of the balance that was left that i got out.... shaft looks to be good as i tired installing the new balance and its tight going on as it should be.... thoughts, ideas... i am open to ALL...

Gimp

 

see attached for seal that i got out too... i thought this was rubber? looks more like metal, with a spring... do i need this, thought it was replaceable?

Gimp..

 

Also, when using the impact screwdriver... should it be set to L or R to get off and how long should it take (tried one for like 10 minutes but not much room to swing a hammer)... i think it should be L but to be honest i am so pissed off at those 9 screws.....

 

only if you don't want it to leak.

 

do you have a new HB? or is the old one OK? either way, just use a new woodruff key and torque it to specs. Is a part of the key stuck?

 

I think the key also turns the oil pump rotor, but I'm not entirely sure. You will see when you get the oil pump off. There is a second key that aligns the crank timing gear, but that's farther back, and you shouldn't have to mess with that. You should have access to the key with the oil pump off.

A new crank seal should be a complete unit including the outer metal part and spring around the rubber part.

For the impact screwdriver, you want to hold it with a little tension in the counterclockwise direction as you strike it. So put it on the screw and push firmly toward the screw, then while maintaining the force torque it a little like you are trying to loosen it, then strike it. It may be hard to hit it hard with the limited space.

 

so i know i need a new seal... but i was suprised to see that it looks liek metal and not ALL ruber... thats all i am saying... interesting

 

i need a new HB, which i have, came with a new key too... idk know for the key to be honest..... i cant seem to get a good feel inside there besides where the key for the timing chain is. does the HB and timing chain use the same key or a different one? are they alighed or off set.... i am thining the key sheered off and its now still in the shaft... and since i cant get the damn oil pump screws out yet i cant get a good look at the shaft... any help on the key would be a plus, as i am lost at this point besides trying to take the timing cover off... which i really dont want to do just yet... thanks.

Gimp

 

the HB turns the oil pump... its why it has the sloted outsides so it slides right onto the gears. thanks for the seal answer, thats what i thought.

will try again tomorrow, thanks.

Gimp

 

I tried really hard starting off to follow this thread and see if I can help, but I will be honest here. OP, can you PLEASE do some proof reading before you submit a post? It seems like every one of the posts on this first page have glaring spelling and sentence structure problems. It makes it difficult to read at times. Just saying......

 

Understood and will do. Point taken. Thank you

 

The online Toyota parts stores list 2 keys in the crankshaft section. One is listed for the timing gear and one for the pulley. Please post some pics once you get the oil pump off.