1999 Tacoma randomly dying, Need advice.

This has been a problem on my 1999 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 for about a year now. The truck will randomly die with no warning. after dying it will not start (but will turn over just fine) it will not start for about 5-10 minutes. then It will come to life like nothing happened to it and it will run perfectly.

Here is some background of what I have already tried.
Replaced fuel pump
changed fuel filter
cleaned MAF
cleaned throttle body
replaced battery/cleaned terminals

also I heard a clicking (probably a solonoid) coming form the fuze box/charcoal canister area

any suggestions/advice welcome.

 

Cam angle sensor or crank position will cause this, have your codes pulled for pending faults and check to see if your engine check light illuminates on the start up bulb check if it isn't already lit.

 

No codes of any kind, and the check engine light is in working order. could something like this (Cam angle sensor or crank position) be messing with my truck but not be triggering a code?

 

Possibly, it could be failing intermittent and when it fails it kills the truck so the fault is under a non running condition and not recorded to the ECU. The read head could also be dirty so the ECU is not seeing a resistance or continuity fault thus not triggering a code.

Lastly debris could have damaged the tang on the cam or crank that flags the prox sensor and so it doesnt get a solid read.

How long ago was your T-Belt changed? Could be slack and have jumped a tooth causing a cam/crank miss match issue.

Crank sensor is by the crank on the left side of the engine infront of the oil pump angled up (right side as you look at the front of the truck) and their is only one cam sensor and it reads the left cam if I recall correctly, you can get to it by removing the top plastic timing belt cover. Both sensors and cover are held in by 10mm head m6 bolts. I want to say there's 11 in the top cover? Been a while since I ripped out a 3.4.

Shameless plug, I have both a cam and a crank sensor for a 3.4 for sale, used but in good working condition. If you determine you need them let mw know with a PM and we can talk shop.

 

I changed the timing belt only 15000 miles ago. I do not believe I did, but if I mis timed it by a tooth would it cause these kind of problems? I will add the this only happens 4-5 times a year.

If I find out I need a sensor you will be the first one I call.

 

When you changed the belt did you replace the hydraulic tensioner?

Really the only other thing that comes to mind is a possible bad chassis ground. Have you performed "the big 3 upgrade"? You may want to look into that.

Could be the ECU itself but I personally have never seen one go bad on a 3.4.

When it does fail what are the specific conditions, like weather, throttle position, engine load, RPMs, is the truck tilted to one side or the other front or rear, does it happen offroad when chassis is flexed out or twisted, in a turn etc etc.

Or are you tottally boned because it's seemingly completely random with no one reoccurring condition between instances? This would most strongly point to a bad chassis ground or even a broken or shorting wire.

Welcome to TW by the way.

 

I have never heard of this upgrade I will defiantly look into it.

its interesting that you bring up the chassis. why would it matter if the chassis is flexed? the last time it happened I was going up a hill with a quad in the back, while also turning. and the time before that I was turning sharply. could that have anything to do with it?

thank you for the welcome! I have been here for a long time but I would only read. I figured tonight was a good night to make an account.

 

Only reason chassis flex or body roll could factor is if there's a wire or connection that is stressed just enough to not transfer current. Basically a bad ground that only occurs when pulled on.

The Big three is usually more of an audio upgrade,it essentially just replaceing your alternator hot to batt, engine to chassis and batt to chassis cables with larger gauge oxygen free copper wire. It's a good idea regaurdless of it's origin. Your chassis being the ultimate ground for your system as I'm sure you know.

In the mean time you make just check those connections and possibly disconect and clean them and their terminal spots before reassembling and apply dielectric grease.

 

sounds easy and cheap, Two of my favorite things. I will give this a try.

Thanks for all the help! if/when it happens again I will keep this thread updated.

 

Ya keep us posted, always cool to see the end result and hopefully fix. Might help another reader out in the future.

Sometimes those weird issues are caused by the strangest things, a buddy with a 07 Tundra with tow package was having an issue with his ABS apparently the LED brake bar he had pluged into his trailer wiring plug didn't have enough resistance for the truck to see it as a trailer but it knew something was plugged into it and the truck was trying to beef up the brakes stopping power for "his half pound "trailer" causing the abs system fault. Oi!

Somethings really don't need to be "smart". I'm looking at you people who keep making smart fridges. It's a fridge it only needs to do two things, keep beer cold and deer frozen.