1999 toyota tacoma no crack no start problem

Is 14v when the car is running? I test the main power cable that goes to the starter it had the same voltage as the battery meaning there is no lost of power from the battery to starter.

 

That's no indication of the batteries ability under load. If the cranking amps drops when load is applied the voltage drops exponentially.
Load test the battery at parts store.

 

Yes 14v would be engine running, static voltage should be around 12.6v.
If the engine cranks normal when you bypass the starter relay that tells me your battery, main power to the starter and engine block ground are good.

 

With key in ON the cluster lights should be on including the CEL.
If CEL bulb is burned out the dash cluster has to be removed to replace the bulb.
The ECM is behind passenger side kick panel so if you have a water leak it gets damaged and connection corrodes and the CEL light if good won't light.

 

It most like is the ECM then the CEL light does turn on and the obd2 port doesn't work

 

May also be the scan tool being used, corroded connection or damaged wires. If the CEL works the ECM is most likely OK.

 

Ok here's engine wiring and ECM pinouts. Pin 16 of the DLC should have power at all times whether the PCM is alive or not and pins 4 and 5 should be full time grounds, if any of those are missing find out why and I bet you find your problem.

 

Could be a bad battery even if you read good voltage. Only way to rule out the battery is to get it load tested. It sounds like you have a manual. Have you tried to bump start it?

 

I just got the new ECM and still no luck but pin 16 of the DLC doesn't have power

 

No I haven't tried jump starting it

 

No I meant bump start. It's where you have someone push the truck and get up to speed about 5mph and then you drop the clutch while it's in 1st or 2nd gear. The engine should turn over. I did this back in the days when my battery died on my cars or moto.

 

Actually nm, I saw that you have crank when you hook up the battery directly to the starter. That should rule out the battery.

 

Your gona have to find where your losing your power then, does the OBD fuse have power on both sides?

 

I believe it is the same one with the cigarette outlet fuse and it isn't blown

 

OBD is on it's own fuse according to the power distribution diagram, still have to check for power there even if the fuse isn't blown to know where in the circuit you need to check from there.

 

I just checked it and it does have power on both side of the fuse

 

I'll start looking for the violet color cable now to see if it's damaged