1GR-FE rebuild

So I'm going to start off with a warning, I will do my best to document this engine rebuild.

A little back story. Once upon a time in the land of blissful ignorance. Lol! So a few weeks ago, in reality. I was performing an oil change on the truck. I started off by pulling the filter. I notice something out of the corner of my eye looked a little..off. I look back and think to myself "that looks kinda shiny". Yes, I was a little worried. Well time to raise the truck up and drain the engine. As the oil hits the drain pan you can see all the metallic material in the oil. My thoughts "Fuck". I have not had any noises, knocks, rough running, no symptoms of a failing engine. Well I had to finish the oil change. I think the part that pissed me off the most was the $70-80 of Liquid moly nexgen I had to put in it, just to goto waste.
Well after looking for weeks and trying to decide what I want to do.
Options I thought of:
1: used engine
2: rebuilt engine
3: rebuild the engine
3a: build it with forged internals and Darton mid sleeves
3b: stock rebuild
Well, after lots of looking for part, engines and what not. I can't even find a replacement truck. LMAO! Mostly a joke, mostly. Trying to find anything in stock is hard. I ran into issues where retailers say they have parts in stock but the are not. After trying to get refunds from two different retailers for this issue.
I have found the parts I need to rebuild. Part are on the way. now to drop the trans to pull the engine.
Deja vu, I just replaced the trans a few months back.
I'll try to hunt down the pics of the oil. I think this will be a good start till I get some part removed from the truck.

 

And so it begins.

 

With some planning you can do this.
Make sure that you use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft mains and journals then document it. Most likely you can get away with standard sized bearings. are sure that you spin the crankshaft after mounting the crankshaft bearings. Rebuilding an engine is easier thank you think it is. Remember that in order for you to eat an elephant it takes one bite at a time so don't let it intimidate you.

1. Get compression readings on each cylinder.
2. Examine the spark plugs because they can tell a story.

How did that oil get so much bearing material?

 

looking forward to following this thread. Good luck, shouldn’t be bad. Just take your time and double check everything and you’ll be set!!!

 

Not sure how it got the metal in the oil. Tear down should tell me.
Thanks for the good comments. Auto mechanic is what I do by trade. Just not a big fan of doing it on my back. Lol

 

Trans out and beer in hand. Lol!
A little more to the back story. About 5-7k ago I replaced the trans for a RC62F and added an AWD t-case. I had to use the 3rd gen pressure plate. I was not able to get one of the alignment dowels out of the old trans. So the new trans went in with one dowel. Since that repair I have had a vibration between 2k-3k at the highest rpm. I had not been able to get it tracked down. My fear is that vibration may have contributed to this failure. I took 3 pics of the clutch flywheel assembly while still on the engine. The pics are of looking through the vent gaps. There are three, hince three pics.

 

Did you do the cam gear mod,, if so check the top end.

 

I did. About 17k ago when I put the super charger on

 

An issue there?

 

Clutch disk definitely isn't flat.

How are the dowels and holes for the pressure plate to flywheel? That would be the most likely culprit for a disk "flushness" issue.

 

Heat and channel locks or parallel pliers will get the dowels out.

 

Tried all of that on the old dowel pin. It was not moving. that is why I put the the new trans in with only one.
From what I can tell they all look good and seated properly. I will take pics of them tomorrow or when I pull the clutch off. I was worried the clutch disk may be off center from the missing dowel.

 

If that aint the cleanest transmission for its age that I have ever seen.

 

I had to soak those dowel pins down and fight for forever to get them separated, they finally did.,

 

What's the mileage on the motor?

I recall another thread where someone didn't torque a cam cap or tensioner correctly when doing the gears and it came loose and roached a cam journal.

 

Ew

 

Yeah I didn’t torque down the tensioner bolt in the pass head 8 years ago and it finally worked it’s way out. Did t mess anything up in the head. Not sure about the crank/rod bearings since I have torn apart the motor. The tensioner got chewed up bad and I had a lot of shavings in the engine. Had a knocking sound I ignored for a while cuz I thought it was something with the transmission since it came about after I dropped the transmission for a hydraulic throw out bearing.

 

169800 ish

 

That trans has about 10k on it. I put it in a few months back.