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1GR-FE shenanigans/rebuild

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Merctech123, Mar 3, 2024.

  1. Mar 3, 2024 at 3:14 PM
    #1
    Merctech123

    Merctech123 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2022
    Member:
    #399963
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle:
    07 Tacoma PreRunner URD MK3 supercharged
    Just thought I'd share my experience with trying to build a 1GR-FE V6 for my 07 Tacoma. Back in early 2020 I installed a URD stage 3 supercharger kit and immediately broke the 180000 mile engine. Bent 3 rods and broke the piston ring lands on one in the right bank. Money being tight did a rush rebuild with Arias forged pistons and Molnar rods and that's about it. Lapped the valves in, put new bearings in, and put it back together after a short check out at a machine shop. 20000 miles later it started to REALLY tap at which point I sourced an engine from an 04 4runner. Eventually timing jumped and it barely ran. Pulled the valve covers and found the teeth on the adjusters to be almost gone. Amazing it ran as long as it did with the way I drive. 20221105_190002.jpg

    I put used adjusters in and hoped for the best while the 4runner engine was at the machine shop. I dropped the engine off at Aldmerman machine shop in Deleware on November 1st 2022 asking if it were possible to sleeve the block without spending ~3000 dollars to put in Darton sleeves. Two weeks later they called and said I needed new valve guides. Told them to go ahead with that and didn't hear anything more despite me calling once a month and after 8 months demanded my engine back. Went and talked to someone who said it'd get on the list to be done without the sleeves. After getting it back I found they didn't dry the lifters in the heads well so they had rust spots, knocked the crank over bending the reluctor wheel, and charged me 1000 dollars to "port work bowls" after putting in oversized valves and the guy slipped with the die grinder, cut at least one valve seat off center, and bored the engine over to 94.5mm without consulting me. 20230805_103908.jpg 20230806_103410.jpg 20230806_185233.jpg 20230820_134224.jpg
    But that bored oversize thing being said I did say I needed custom pistons so go only as large as needed to be a straight cylinder. The head gasket on the engine in the truck eventually failed so I just wanted my engine back and together.

    Thanks to information on here got updated cam adjusters and position sensors for the older engine and after 11 months between machine shop and waiting on things was finally ready to assemble. Got the same Kelford cams that Torspd has in his one engine (thanks to him for explaining how to check that they would even spin in the head)20231101_201432.jpg
    Radiumauto fuel rails. An 8AN fuel feed line is roughly .001 inchs larger then the factory fuel line so lines from tank will connect without issue.20231026_210525.jpg
    Dual valve springs and titanium retainers. Carillo pistons ordered with the help of LC Engineering paired with Brian Crower rods.
    20231103_182736.jpg

    ARP head studs from LC Engineering with 2JZ head studs used as main studs. Couldn't get a tap to cut threads in the studs they were so hard so used a carbide bit on a lathe to cut them down so they'd thread in far enough. Thanks again to Torspd for posting this information.20231101_201130.jpg
    Upgraded the fuel pump from the 255lph that comes with the URD kit to an AEM 340lph
    . Connectors are the same if anyone is curious.20231204_174246.jpg
    Cometic head gaskets and all the odds and ends.20231104_190827.jpg


    Finally had an engine to put into my truck!20231111_152048.jpg

    Can't say how long it'll hold up with oversized bores and boost but nearly 2000 miles on it and it brings in around 475-500 grams per second air so making good power. Wait and see what happens.20240104_221019.jpg
     
    Jet3103, Xmplry808, Jimmyh and 4 others like this.

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