1gr Long Block Removal

Alright guys, so my truck has hit 205k and is still running like a champ but it is consuming some coolant, it has not over heated since I caught it early with the scan gauge. In the middle of a 1.5 mo long cross country trip and currently in Delaware at my parents and have decided to fix this 3200 miles away from home.

Motor already has new pulleys, belt, ac clutch, has had oil changes every 5k with Mobil1 synthetic and OEM filters. Considering this mild coolant consumption is the only thing wrong the engine currently, have decided to go with the HG replacement instead of souring a new engine until something shows me otherwise. That being said, I have some items on my list that I also need to do…

1. Replace the rear main seal (very slow leak) nothing serious, but needs to be done before it gets worse.

2. Replace bushings in the steering rack.

3. Repack and replace boots on the front axels.

Going to perform leak down test to verify health, but very confident the engine is healthy and warpage will be minimal. End of the day, this list will be easier to solve with the long block out of the truck. I have done several motor swaps on Hondas before and consider myself mechanically literate, but wondering for those who have done this before what the most efficient procedure is to rip this long block out, save some time instead of going on this adventure by myself and taking more time.

Any suggestions/insight is much appreciated.

 

Bump, almost done, but stuck between getting the x2 17mm bolts at top of tranny and getting the exhaust manifolds off. Seems like one needs to come off to get to the other, but having a hard time getting a good angle on either. Any input is much appreciated!

 

I use a 17mm swivel socket and a 3 ft extension to get to the top two bell housing bolts. My extension is 1/2” drive on the ratchet end, and 3/8” drive on the other end.

OEMTOOLS 25240 1/2" Drive Impact Conversion Extension Set, 3-Piece

here’s the extension I used- it’s showing unavailable, but it gives you and idea as to what is needed. You can take the four bolts out for the trans crossmember and then support the trans with an trans jack and let it down a little, that will help with getting to the top two bolts as well.

$12 Dynamic Tools D008717 3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric with 17mm Universal Joint Socket, Chrome Finish

Here’s the 17mm swivel socket I used

 

Hella extensions with a wobble and a deep well socket on the end. I used like 4 feet of extensions lol.

 

Ended up using ALL of my 3/8 and 1/2 extensions lol

but today was ROUGH, one problem’s solution led to more problems. The harness was a b**** to remove with all the mud that was in a lot of sensors on the back of the block, getting the ac compressor off the block def was not fun. Oh ya, tried to use the 2 post lift to pull the motor out… the oil pan got caught on the passenger mount and bent the tab closest to the radiator and the lift wouldn’t lift the motor high enough, so have to go look for a cherry picker tomorrow and drop the front wheels. Once the motor is out the real work begins...

 

17mm deep socket and a swivel head ratchet, gets the top two 17mm bolts out of the top of the transmission, for me.