1K mile oil change or not

Rings and bearings are seated at the factory. This is not a process that falls on the end user. If you buy a crate motor or rebuild an engine this is something that needs to be done. The main purpose of changing the engine oil early is to reduce the amount of metal in the oil. I honestly don’t understand why people debate this when universally UOA’s show very high levels of iron in particular, aluminum, and copper. Even Amsoil own website specifically states their break-in oil is only for these types of engines. Not needed for a factory engine that has already been seated. It’s also states this should be done at 200 miles. 90% of engine break-in is finished by 500 miles. Waiting until 1k is not doing yourself any favors.


I personally change the oil, or extract the oil, multiple times to help reduce this level of iron, copper, and aluminum to a minimum. The idea is to prevent microscopic scoring or at least minimize and I also start using Liqui Moly’s Cer Tec at 1k miles. The idle smoothness is substantially better after treatment.

This is about 300 miles after cera tec treatment. The idle is so smooth now I can barely tell the engine is running. Look at rpm’s and how they vary minimally.

https://youtube.com/shorts/IAOz2GEPL-Y?feature=shared

 

I agree but engine smoothness has basically no correlation with wear performance.

 

yes, the Cera Tec does improve this tremendously.

 

Like most here if you want change it. I like the 5k number or 12 months for those who don’t drive many miles

 

I'd need to see proof on that as far as rings, and bearings being seated at the factory. I've never heard of this for our mass production engines, only that they might test one out of a batch for qc. You're not dealing with some of these hand build engines where they are dyno tested before shipped. It's up to us to follow the manufactures engine recommendations when breaking in a new vehicle.

 

Yes. Also, when I use ketchup, I open and close the bottle 4 times to make sure I remove all of the air and that it is pristine for my next use. Nothing else will suffice. This isn't a form of obsessive compulsive disorder, it's proven (in my anecdotal studies) to improve ketchup performance.

 

Exactly my point: it's dirtier...lol. It's 5k miles dirtier...and diluted with fuel among other things.

I think your point may be that, in reality, it's only marginally dirtier...but some of us believe that year upon year, mile upon mile...it will reach a tipping point. And no amount of preventative maintenance is gonna get back what you lost.

 

Why stop at 1,000 miles then? Why not change your oil every 100? Every mile makes a difference!

 

If you put in 93.27 octane it runs like a bat out of hell. Also I change the oil on days ending in Y.

 

Don't you think thats way too late? Oil sure has some strange effects of different owners.

 

Check the link. Believe me, 99% of consumers have no idea how to seat rings and bearings. Putting this on the average consumer would be disastrous.

“When breaking in an engine, it is important to vary the load on the engine. A dynamometer often has a preset break-in mode that varies load and engine RPM.”

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2018/05/how-to-break-in-your-piston-rings-the-right-way/

 

Fuel smell at first oil change is usually due to rings not yet seated. 1000 mile oil change may be premature. But if it let's you sleep at night, go 4 it.

 

i do mine every 4-5k miles with castrol or mobil 1 and add marvel mystery oil in the mix. 130k miles and purrs like a kitten. its all shiny when you look into the filler neck (where you add your oil)

to each their own

 

When I bought my Taco I also purchased wheel locks and when it was in for service because they weren’t rotating the tires they wanted charge me more then the wheel locks to put them like 75 bucks and I said no thank you very much.

 

huh?

 

Yep…..sounds about right

 

Yes I know enough about various class engine builds to be dangerous from hanging out at a friends nascar engine facility. They use special break-in oil on all newly built engines, then run them on a dyno before shipping them out. I've never heard of any manufacture doing this for their mass produced engines. I've seen how various type synthetics make it very hard for rings to seat, or not seat at all, opposed to using a dino break-in oil, it happens fairly quick as long as good cylinder pressure is made during several pulls.

 

Yes exactly what I said when they told me the price to install them .

 

No normal automotive manufacturer does that. They don’t send the vehicle out with any special oil.
Toyota guidelines call the Tacoma “broken in “ at I believe 620 miles. No special oil is used, it only makes sense to get the heavy metals out of the oil as soon as possible. And while the filter does catch some stuff, it doesn’t remove everything. And engine braking in causes particles smaller than the filter will catch.

 

I’ve never heard about changing it after 1k thanks for the info