1st Gen 3rd member removal

2003 TRD Offroad SR5
V6
4WD
Elocker

So, I'm getting around to pulling my 3rd member. I'm following this thread. Went through step by step, including the do not-disconnect-the-brake-lines, and the manually-switch-the-elocker-with-a-screwdriver steps. Cant get the sucker to slide off, it feels like something is holding it on at about the 1:00 position looking rearward. This is the area of the locker, so I think it must have something to do with that, but it could also be rust.

Is there anything different about the procedure for the 1st Gen vs. the 2nd Gen w.r.t. the locker?

Please help! I feel like I'm sitting on the garage floor with my guts hanging out!

THanks,
Don

 

I just read the thread that you linked to. I've removed 3rd members before, but that was in 1962.

You could try getting it started by using a hammer and a nice, thin chisel between the 3rd member and its housing. I would first make sure that the elocker is all the way to the center of the housing and then start tapping the chisel lightly all around the housing until I could see it "crack" all the way around. Then I would hammer a bit more until the crack widens to about 1/16 inch or so, and then carefully separate the 3rd member the rest of the way.

Keep us posted!

 

I'm loose all the way around, except around the 1:00 position. When I wiggle I can get the bottom to move about 1/8". At the top at around 12:00, and at about 3:00 I can just see oil moving in the joint when wiggling. Was worried about marring the mating surfaces, but if I use permatex I guess that should fill in any defects.

 

Still no luck. Uploading a video of it wiggling. Will post link when complete.

 

*watches man wiggle third member on Internet*

 

https://youtu.be/C6d0Xdo9pHY

 

Any thoughts on double Nutting the top two studs and backing them out? 4 already came out during disassembly.

 

Locker is in the "locked" position?

 

Yup. All the way to the left, looking rearward

 

Watching that vid it looked like all the studs were free of the third. When prying on it is the pinion still free to move?

 

Do you mean is the drive shafts disconnected? If so, yes.

 

I mean can you spin the diff by hand while prying.

 

Don't know about while prying, but when not prying, yes. Will check.

 

Anything else from the late night crew?

 

Are the axle shafts pulled out for enough to clear the 3rd member? Also, sometimes the elocker shift fork won't move as far as it needs to with just using a screw driver. If this is the case you will need to push in the driver side axle back into its normal position. Once the shaft is back, rotate it some in either direction and then again try to move the elocker shit fork over as instructed in the write-up.


Edit: I'm willing to bet that the axle shaft isn't pulled out far enough. Do you have a helper available to pull out the shaft some at the same time that you are removing the 3rd form the housing

 

I'll try these this morning. Would spinning the pinion flange and looking at the wheels hubs be a "tell"?

 

The checked the locker fork, rotating the axle as you said, and found that I have it in the correct position. Pulled the driver side axle all the way out, and have the passenger side out 8". Still same problem. Is it time for prying?

 

Yes, when prying as shown in the video, pinion flange still moves.

 

The suspected culpril... the stud at 1:00. Flange rusted to stud inside the hole?. PB blaster + heat & cold. Any other tricks?

 

Success! It was the stud/flange corroded. PB Blaster + heat + cold + time + pry bar = 3rd member off.