1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

It's a 3.4lb spring.

 

I really thought that the boost controller was working wonderfully too, Now I'm questioning existence haha. I'll move the ports around before my next drive.

After making a handful of changes to the target lambda table I went up black ridge again, it ran about 7°f cooler.

thought I was doing some data logging earlier and realized when I got home the trigger conditions I input didn't save so it didn't record. I guess that's why the tape icon wasn't blue and spinning.


I'm making a few more adjustments and might try again tonight if only to break in the fresh oil change.

 

The boost controller was giving you all the response! Just not controlled. Forget about boost for now, get everything ironed out, usable and safe. Then add the sauce.

 

Now that it's all put together like the pictures I see that I have a breather where others have a plug. Hope that's not going to make a difference for the orientations.

 

No you have a correct now, you just have a big breather I always buy the low profile ones.

 

Well the temperatures stayed much lower that time but it's not a fair comparison since the ambient temp was much lower and it's only building 0.5psi now

 

Glad to hear its not pinging.

 

Special order, no sauce haha

 

Your fuel map, not your AFR target map, will still need to adjust. I loaded a really close one, but not close enough to lean on without tuning in boost yet.

 

It is weird it's not making your base spring pressure. But atleast over boost/ping is avoided.

Boost reference source location? Any charge pipe leaks?

 

Well it's probably a good thing I haven't touched the base map then but it's probably having a harder time adjusting with me making changes to the AFR target.

Im playing with things I don't understand

 

@unstpible it's ok, you will

https://youtu.be/E96rBIzZ_sE?si=Z1TWFY9lDFyORhHL

https://youtu.be/uPjIS9Tg83M?si=b39r5JPA1EIontE5

 

Boost reference for the MAP is at the FPR. EBC boost reference is on the turbo, That stuff hasn't changed for the last year.

In the charge pipe I have 3 vacuum ports from the Airaid intake tube that weren't sealed as good as I thought they were but I slapped some JB weld plastic epoxy in them a few days ago so the charge pipes are sealed better than ever.

I thought my plenum was leaking after I did the injectors but I think that was actually just the injectors being louder than oem. When I pulled it back apart to replace the injector O rings I pinched I had my wife turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system and with my head under the hood and I could feel the fuel moving through the line making the noise. I also sprayed the MLS plenum gaskets with the copper stuff just to be sure it would seal since I didn't have new gaskets on hand (they arrived a day later) but it was making plenty of boost this afternoon when I drove it in the heat. I think it's the boost controller because that's the only thing I changed before the last drive

 

I'm just trying to do everything within my power to have the truck as ready as possible for the 1,000 mile trip that starts on Sunday. It's been a lot of highs and lows.

 

I would just give the couplers a quick look/tighten.

For 1000 miles, no boost is better than ping. But the controller plumbed like Type 1 is just passing air through the solenoid with no bleed. It's just like having one solid piece of vacuum line from compressor to gate.

Have you hit Apply to Base VE Table yet?

 

I'll give them a look before I go anywhere.

I haven't applied anything to the base VE table either

 

You should probably hit Apply. Save all your major changes to a new file name as you go so you can revert back to a previous map if need be.

You can then compare the old Ve and new Ve maps, see where the differences are and how far off it was. Then you can also adjust surrounding cells that didn't get hit as much in the direction of the trend. Keep ironing out the Ve table until the Stft is very low. The better the Ve table, the better everything else will be to tune.

For your manual boost controller, how much did you have it twisted open? Which one is it?

 

If you're still worried and your AFR table is set and just needs to self-adjust, just set all worrying fuel cells to +10%. That way you run rich and come down over time

 

Manual controller is a Turbosmart Boost Tee and it's been set to 5/100 clicks or almost as low as possible. I have it in right now and have it set to 0 so it should just be the 3.4 spring pressure.

As soon as I see where to hit Apply to the Base VE Table It'll be applied...