1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

That's actually quite impressive that you can command all that from something that wasn't necessarily designed to do it.

 

If I remember I think Gabe can, but depending on the year, maybe dive by wire was part of the equation?

 

This sounds promising. I'll sign up for that. Accuracy of speed in 4lo seems like a low priority.

 

Anyone with a Haltech 2000 or 2500 can, its like any other feature, it's all there for you to play with but I/O is the hot commodity and controlling the trans eats a bit of it up. Especially if you have drive by wire since your I/O would be heavily eaten into with the dual throttle sensors and the throttle motor plus the trans line pressure solenoid too. Much easier if it isn't a DBW model. Even a Haltech 750 can control a trans I think but you'd have to have a PD16 or a microsquirt (attached by CAN) to have enough I/O. Looks rather straight forward otherwise and enables some nice features to help the auto not get beaten up by the boosted 5VZ

 

Have you got your haltech up and running?
I noticed my scan gauge shows 13.2 volts with haltech,
But with the stock ECU it shows 14.2 volts.

Is the haltech able to run below 13 volts without causing issues?

Still trying to figure out my trigger issues

 

https://nextlevelmotorsport.com.au/...agement/products/a340-gear-position-convertor

^ The HT article links to that to save some ports, but that's a ridiculous price for what it is.

 

This is something anyone could build really, just have each position pin run through a different value resistor.

 

Yep, pretty much. You could go full digital too for like an extra 5 bucks

 

The haltech just doesn't like being below 10v it might not actually start below 11. But 13 is fine, that's technically still above a full battery which is 12.6v

I'm installing mine this Friday so I can start my NA tune

 

I've just been sitting on all of the parts since they arrived. Currently trying to wrap up my engineering degree so I've been pretty busy with that and haven't had a whole lot of time or money for the truck lately. I think I'll get around to installing everything this fall so I'll be sure to read about everyone's issues that they're running into. I'll be doing the remote tuning with Gabe so hopefully he'll have fixes for most or all of the issues by then.

 

Let me know if you have a voltage drop from before and after with stock ECU and then haltech

 

@DrabT100 How is it all coming lately, been quiet

 

I drove the truck around quite a bit last Saturday (cruise night where I live) which gave me a chance to do some road tuning. I am still dealing with the idle and it does stall randomly when starting hot or just coming to a stop after pushing the clutch. The low idle after a hot soak was there before the haltech so my IAC may be on its last legs. Other than that it is great, i havent gone into boost control much yet though. I also have a water injection setup I will be installing and letting the haltech handle as well just for a little safeguard. I have been away all week so lots still to do when I get back.

 

When you see this discrepancy, have you taken a reading at the battery with a multimeter?

I have seen a voltage drop of about ~.5VDC with the Haltech. This difference can be seen between the reading in the Haltech software and my scangauge which is connected to the OBDII port which, on my truck, is still managed by the OEM ECU.

 

Mine is reporting within .3v of what's measured at the battery.

 

Interesting point of note, yesterday when getting my truck working on the haltech, every time I would have crank trigger issues they'd arise on the 33rd tooth of the crank trigger wheel. Not sure what that's about. But after going to Nexus and looking in the oscope, I got it as far as 4100k. Still needs more work and the 26 year old sensor probably isn't helping.

 

Does it care how many teeth there are? Wondering if maybe its a programming thing.

 

Yeah that's how it determines where the crank is out of 360°. Tooth 35 and 36 are missing, that's how it knows TDC. Erroring on 33 is curious to me, but I have a feeling it is a sensitivity issue considering the teeth are extremely small and a poorly functioning sensor could stop reading them accurately when the blank space is approaching, since it reads the teeth on the falling side of the sinusoidal waveform

 

Makes sense. Can you scope the sensor output itself?

 

Actually yes, well also no. I have no idea where my Tektronix scope is. But I can scope the crank and cam sensors in the Haltech software, it'll open them up in an oscope viewer and give you all the granularity you want. Might actually be better than a real scope for this since if the haltech can't see it it doesn't matter if a good scope can.