1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Side note that new tune is running well, the truck seems to be starting quicker too.

 

Haltech. I haven't seen anything on the stock ECU since the Haltech went it

 

That's a pretty ungood code and an odd one for your setup



Check your grounds first and foremost, to my knowledge you're not using 5v ref for anything currently in your setup other than TPS maybe but it's throwing a code for the internal ref not the output one which points more to a 12v supply or grounding issue IMHO

 

I guess that's why it reads "abs" not "ABS"

 

yessir, short for absolute

 

Timing 101, but well stated
https://saabwisonline.com/b5/9-3/20...c-t8/normal-ignition-timing/general-ignition/

 

Good summary, but this isn't a college course this is maybe AP HS haha. Remedial Ignition Theory 098

 

So what's the class they put the disruptive kids in before they get to remedial 098 cause I think that's where I belong. Maybe the janitors closet

 

Work study with the dynamometer lubrication crew.

 

It doesn't even have pictures, what a terrible article haha

 

You had me at work study with a dyno.

 

Will be investigating how this could have happened, but this is my EFI fuse. I thought I smelled electrical burning after a towing adventure earlier this week... It's miraculous the truck still runs

 

Are the remnants of the fuse still in there?

 

Yes, just dug them out

 

Wondering if I should drive my fuel pump on a separate circuit now since it draws 12 amps on its own.. I can't remember if I was running a 15A or 20A fuse either. FSM says run 20A, fuse box says run 15.
I probably will, but not in a rewiring mood rn.

 

That's pretty remarkable. I've never seen a fuse do that.

 

Glad it didn't get any worse from there, that's crazy

 

Seems like it was actually the +12V rail underneath making bad contact. I probed the current across the fuse contacts, got 12amps, and pulled them out to promptly burn myself on the tip (the plastic around it had also started melting). So I removed the whole fuse box, cut the wires, and put a new inline fuse in for it.

Was hoping that was the cause of my uncorrectable lean and knock codes (going back to factory for emissions) but appears not.

 

New camshaft sensor and everything is good back to normal

 

Going to try these things with factory since apparently my stock are shot. Prepared to throw together a resonant band pass circuit with it if need be, but need to probe the ECU shunt resistance to determine L and C for 7.1kHz