1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Anyone know if the 3/8 holes plugged near the stock oil pressure sensor are good spots to add an aftermarket oil pressure/temp sensor (3.4L V6)? Are they before after the oil pump? I did not see a consistent answer in my search.

 

Rusty one is perfect, it is the same galley that feeds the sensor right above it, aluminum one is dirty oil

 

lmk which one you get, I've been thinking about getting one for a while
I have my turbo feeds teed off the stock pressure sensor so I should also have that spot free

 

Syltech pressure/temp sensor is highest quality. Bosch ones are readily available and cheap but commonly leak through the connector :/

 

So like the MSCS-4P-G10-N8?
What are the correct threads? I seem to remember them being BSPT?

 

Yup, I have a Syltech pressure/temp sensor waiting on deck.
https://theskylineshed.com/products...-and-temp-combo-sensor?variant=41403745239234

 

The the stock oil pressure sensor location is 1/8 BSPT. The 2 plugged locations I mentioned above are 3/8 BSPT. I'll be mounting my pressure/temp sensor away from the engine block so I will be adding a small length of hose which my sensor will be mounted to the end of. Otherwise, a 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT or 3/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter and you are good to go.

 

Cool, that link is the lowest price I saw too.
I'd be worried about relocation though if you want accurate temperature. It's not as though flow circulates down a radial line

 

Spent a minute dialing in the e-fan, can bring the duty down to about 29% and keep temps totally stable so far. So rebuilding my PWM ramp now to acknowledge I basically don't need the fan 90% of the time below 190° and make the ramp a bit more heavy above that

 

Guess my IAC is stuck open, leading to the idle control issue and an annoying high pitched whine you can hear in the cab. Annoying, but maybe it's worth going to an aftermarket now?
Not sure what would have killed it all of a sudden

 

Are you going to go drive by wire or are you going to go aftermarket IAC. I have a couple single wire BAC and double wire BAC valves hanging around

 

It would definitely be fun to play with DBW. Can't say I'm familiar with the difference in valves though

 

Any clue if the DBW pedals mount up in older trucks without fabrication?

 

My recommendation would be to use a Honda pedal position sensor to adapt your factory pedal

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166883135189?chn=ps

 

Sheesh 400 bucks for a 5VZ DBW throttle body

 

You don't want to use that anyway. Use a 60 mm Bosch/Siemens body. You can get them for like 25 bucks from the junkyard.

There's a whole host of reasons why the factory DBW is terrible.

 

It'll bolt up direct?

 

Probably need a tiny adapter plate but you'll avoid the pitfalls of the clutch activated failsafe in the ECTS-i Toyota DBW that makes it not function well with direct control from a standalone. It's why we have to use the factory ECU as a middleman on trucks equipped with it. Not to mention if the throttle position sensor or the pedal position sensor which is mounted to the body on those goes out there are no replacements available you just have to replace a whole throttle body. This is something we were planning on making an off-the-shelf adapter for if there's enough interest.

 

I think I'm more nervous about having enough I/O hah

 

That is a valid concern. You need at least four for the body itself and one for pedal position... But on the bright side you basically get to delete your current TPS and IAC... Sooo

Pretty sure you can put the transmission stuff on an I/O extender safely if you're still doing that