1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Huh? How else do you train it away from Gabe settings? I'd have to be on a dyno for hours...

 

You turn LTFT off, drive around while PC logging, analyze logs and correct the VE by hand. You don't need a Dyno to get it pretty close, that and familiarity with the engine and VE table trends can get you damn near dialed. I know this is your experiment truck but you really should do some research into best practices and traditional tuning methods, more of your experiments would probably prove to be unnecessary band aids and others provide more successful results free from your vehicles quirk bias.

 

I mean back in the day of the URD piggyback, I did more of that, was sloppy, super time consuming to put every set of logs in a table, and ultimately a failure. If LTFTs are only going one direction, I don't see how that would be a wrong approach...
I've watched plenty of High Performance Academy and others over the years and I follow in line with what they do, I just don't have easy dyno access. I really don't feel like I'm that out of line from the norm, I'm just chasing those little corners. There's no bandaids, just more open cuts. For the record, it drives great 90% of the time, I'm just anal-retentive about modernizing it

BTW, I did reduce the resolution on my fuel tables so be happy about that lol

Crank Injection pulse ended up being necessary and I adjusted it much closer to 100% across the board, working more consistently now, knock on dash.

 

This maybe a dumb question, but as an alt to the Haltech displays, is there any reason setting up a smartphone with the Torque Pro app wouldn't work with haltech (specifically looking at a Nexus S2)? Especially with the Hatech connect app, this seems like a slick/cheap way to setup the gauges and have access to tweek the haltech settings. I know this is nothing new, so just checking if there is a reason it won't work.

Here is a nice example here on a stock ecm
https://youtu.be/RUHSOtlil7o?si=T39B5nZXIOOVJJgw

 

Torque works with the generic OBDII output from a Haltech, there's plenty of cheap dashes that use the much quicker Haltech CAN language though too.

 

Well, got my rusEFI up and running, and so far I'm loving it. The wideband corrections work perfectly and it wasn't hard for me to get a good tune. I don't have the issue that Kenneth has where his ECT, IAT, TPS, etc. all rise with MAP rising. In talking with him, I'm pretty certain he has his grounds messed up and that has something to do with his problem.

Here's a snapshot of my Target AFR vs Actual AFR

 

That's cool dude, I hope it stays dialed for you

 

Had a failure I've never seen on other boosted stuff I've worked on. My boost control solenoid (a genuine MAC valve, not some Amazon cheapo) gave out. Thankfully it failed open to wastegate so it just put me at 3psi haha. Removed it from the truck and measured it, sure enough the coil was open circuit. Got a new one in and everything is back to normal there now.

 

I've always wondered if holding the solenoid at 100% for spool assit would cause this.

 

I don't believe so. When we swapped it to a 3 port, we turned off spool assist since we didn't see a huge difference on his setup overall. That Mac valve was just OLD and was used for an air locker for who knows how long.

 

Hit some consecutive high grade highways today. Smelled burning and lost boost, wonder why lol.

 

It's a good thing it melted the dome line instead of the diaphragm line

 

For those who need a cheap dual wire thread in oil temp sensor I've created a CAL file for this unit that replaces single wire VDO part nums 320.028 and 320.072. It's 1/8-27NPT and has a DTM connector on it already, for use on an AVI with a 1k ohm pullup to 5v.

https://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/temperature-sender/?

 

Hey guys, I know it's not Haltech, but could I get some feedback on my ignition map? Does anyone have a Haltech tune they'd be willing to share with me that has a decent ignition table? My setup is turbocharged, intercooled, 8psi. E85 in the summer, 50/50 E85 and 93 Premium in the winter.

 

What does the y axis represent? If it's what I think, looks pretty aggressive, if not downright dangerous, even if you are running 93 at minimum

There are plenty of map files posted in here, just look/search for .zip files

 

That’s the map at the 10:00 mark in this video. Is this you?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aIs7p9RIKZM

 

Yeah I thought I remembered some tunes being posted in here, but the search feature didn’t sniff out the .zip files and manually scanning all 128 pages of this thread was getting a bit tedious. Even ChatGPT told me no

It’s not me, but I did use that YT video to get me started. I deviated from a few things and improved a little bit on what he did. For example I have cam sync setup and I’m running sequential injection and not batch.

 

What exactly is your load axis supposed to be? It's hard to translate values if a whole axis is different. Also what fuel are you running, Pump 93 and E85 for instance would have vastly different ignition maps. Although if you're running the 315cc injectors in your sig you're probably not running E85, they'd be wayyyyy too small for anything more than 4-5psi haha. If you do run a full load of E85 do you have fuel pressure compensation above the regular 1:1 FPR that comes with the truck?

 

Y-axis is MAP in KPA. An absolute vacuum would be 0kpa. Idle is typically around 29kpa. 100kpa is atmosphere at sea level.

Yes 315cc injectors are small for E85. They’re equivalent to gas on stock 245cc injectors. I don’t take it WOT for that reason, but it helps with towing my boat around at part throttle boost in the summer time. Plan to get bigger injectors here in the near future.

 

Ahh abs.kPa, fun, we can pretend we're europeans haha, don't suppose the Russians put imperial units in there huh? You should probably have a flex sensor so you can do map mixing between your 93ign map and E85, but in the meantime shoot for safe which would be a solid 93oct map. I can't comment on a 50/50 mix of 93 and E85 since it can vary so much, everyone's E85 is a bit different when it comes to total ethanol content, ranges from mid 70s to 88 or so. I'd say your ignition map is a bit advanced for pump 93. You might pick up a set of knock ears or make a set (pretty easy) but in general you want to pull some timing approaching and right at peak torque (peak cyl pressure) to preserve the internals of the engine even if there is no knock present. This is generally around 3600-4000rpm on 5VZ, your turbo is a bit small for the application so I'd imagine you're peaking early and falling off anyway so it may not be a huge concern just yet but something to keep in mind for the future. You're not far off though for a starting point, is the map limited to a 16x16 table or did you just start there for simplicity? I'd personally want a bit more resolution in positive pressure to work with, for the most part what you have out of boost is going to be fine especially with some E85 in the mix. But in boost looks a bit high to me I'd limit your max advance.



If it were me I'd knock a couple degrees out of the purple and rethink the entirety of the red, maybe with some knock monitoring. The blue is lacking so much resolution both in MAP and RPM that I just wouldn't drive up there until you can expand the map also it's way too high like the other zones. This stuff really should be evaluated on a case by case basis with your tuner, but if I was handing someone a basemap at least I would do what I wrote above first.