1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Really should hand ballpark those regions first for safety, it's really hard for trims to get it right up there since it occurs fast and you don't necessarily dwell in the same zones long. Even just using quick tune a few times into those zones would get it closer than waiting for trims to stabilize and take you out of the possibility of danger.

 

Can't be dialing in your VE like an art project...

 

til LCE updated the 2rz/3rz SC to a TVS 900 blower


https://www.lceperformance.com/3RZ-2-7L-Low-Boost-Supercharger-Kit-Smog-Legal-199-p/7015195.htm

 

And it's still too small haha, the 1320 would have been perfect.

 

Came here to say the same thing... Lol the 5vz needs a bigger one, and the 2/3rz needs the 1320

 

I wonder if there's a space constraint with the larger blower since it's on it's side sticking into the driver fender apron. Or they didn't wanna do the R&D to see if it would fit....

 

It's very possible, I'm sure it is still a good bit more efficient than the MP62 though. Not having an intercooler is still a tremendous oversight

 

Agreed. I still think you could squeeze one in there between the blower and manifold, but not sure how slim you can get an intercooler and how effective it would be given that constraint.

 

So a quick question about Haltech Elite ECMs in general... are previous tunes lost after they are disconnected from a power source for an extended period of time?

 

Nope, they're stored in non volatile memory, in fact every time you turn off your truck the way they're wired they go entirely powerless

 

I figured there had to be some sort of explanation. I appreciate the information.

 

No problem, I've wired too many of these things now haha. It is nice the Haltech holds on to all information written to it even without power applied, I think it would be a liability if it could randomly lose a tune. I have heard that the Nexus S/R/Rebel ECUs have a real time clock battery internally but it is just there to maintain date and time for logging purposes and if it goes bad you just lose timecodes on your logs.

 

Is there a website or place that sells OEM style plugs? Need a new cam sensor plug and would rather not go to a pick-n-pull.

 

Yeah, you need the weird tri lobe one right?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13957833&cc=1317623&pt=2568&jsn=8

There's other sites for buying oe connectors, which at least on a Toyota are mostly Denso, although there are some ones from yazaki. But they make more sense for people buying in bulk to make harnesses

 

Ah crap I just realized you said cam not crank...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7988060&cc=1317623&pt=2540&jsn=10471

 

Oh sweet. Didn't know rockauto had flying lead plugs like that. that's great. and ya that's the one I need, thanks.

 

To my dismay, the new wheels & tires, about 40lbs lighter on each corner, have worsened my already bad mpg. Idk what's wrong. It's either gotta be bad AFR readings (maybe an exhaust leak?) and I'm running rich everywhere, and/or my timing is wildly conservative and I'm just blowing power to the wind.
Is there anything more on the mechanical side I should check? I did a compression check a couple years ago and they were on the lower end but still acceptable. I'd assume I'd have other symptoms if that were an issue though. Everything else is in tip top shape except maybe valve lash. Could poor cam-to-crank timing cause this? I recall adjusting it back to 0* last time I had it apart, but maybe that was a mistake. Never checked with a timing light either.

 

what's your definition of bad mpg?

 

Exhaust isn't a bad place to start, you have a lot of places to leak or new leaks to form from cracked welds. Your O2 meets a long ways away from the action too because it is downstream of two turbos.

 

On track for like 10