1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

the values were off by a max of 200 rpm's from what you had. The idle is a lot better already. Now to work on transient throttle some more and iron out cold start issues.

I wouldn't say that 700 rpm isn't lower than the norm. isn't the OEM idle speed at like 650-700?

 

5VZ spec at running temp, above 178* is 700RPM (+/- 50RPM)

3RZ is identical to the 5VZ desired idle speed when stock with EGR (shouldn't matter though if you're not utilizing the EGR you can just demand a slightly lower ISC base value).

So totally normal I'd say, I typically ask for 850rpm idle speed myself, but that's purely a personal choice, with AC idle up I go up another 200rpm (I like cold AC) and with other load idle ups I demand an additional 100rpm.

 

@treyus30 Did you ever getting a working reading from your VSS that was usable, the system on my truck is different but if you didn't I thought we might be able to find something usable from Mike's tune since his is almost identical to your and appears to work (albeit not calibrated).

 

Oh ya it works as an input, still haven't tried as an output though.

 

What would the output feed?

 

Back into the factory ECU for tire size calibration. So intercepting the signal and resending it rather than tapping it

 

Oh I see, that would be to help with trans shift points or just to correct the speedo?

 

Both since Im basically waiting an extra 10mph for lockup

 

Huh, yeah that's not ideal. Well it's a simple enough thing that the ECU should be able to do it but I don't think I've ever seen it done not over CAN.

 

Ya my theory of how to do it is already written up on my page

 

I mean it's a desired feature, enough so that Dakota Digital makes a box just to work with Haltech ECUs and generate predefined outputs for their gauge sets. Which makes me think there might not be a prebuilt function for it.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1302/mode=prod/prd1302.htm

 

That looks like some proprietary logging stuff? They probably just read the CAN info. I'm taking a more direct approach. Frequency in, frequency out.

 

Yeah it is for their gauges, but I think they had to make it because there isn't a canned function to serve the same purpose (minus tacho) in the Haltech.

 

Totally looks like your way would work.

 

I definitely still need to figure out the AC request switch wiring. That and tying the compressor relay into the HT because both of those still stall the motor at idle even with the improved idle control now

 

Whenever you want help tacking that I'm happy to work through it with you. Just need to know which wire you've got and to make sure that once we have AC1 we wire it to an AVI so you can have the switch threshold options like this

 

Great thanks. Pretty sure I've got a grasp on it thanks to your previous post explaining it, but I'll reach out if I run into anything

 

10% off SNP products for limited time:

https://snpspeed.com/all-go-fast-products

 

Wording makes it sound like the discount only works if you're also purchasing a standalone kit, so someone just needing injectors or heaven forbid just an FMU wouldn't get the discount.

 

Thread title changed since Haltech appears to have won out as the preferred 1st gen standalone choice.