1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

@treyus30

 

Lol. Did he seriously just say "I have the hardware, it should work. Can somebody make it work?"?

 

That's what I gathered haha

 

I'm probably just going to go back and finish the plain arduino with the small screen model just so I have something poof-of-concepty that can give me display(s), even if it means they just rest there in front of the tach. I was almost done actually.

Possibly I abandon the idea of gauge pod for now (256x256 RGB is a lot to drive for a microcontroller) and build a little modular block system where you can just connect multiple SPI OLED squares together and each one displays one item, and you can cycle through them. Then the only limit is the refresh rate and the amount of pins on the board for Chip Selects

 

I'd just like to post these here because if you look very closely at them you'll see they look quite similar to others on the market. Do with that knowledge what you will...

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...8NQB6QKsqDO9bSWuF_3y9voOh6zXKAm4aAoXkEALw_wcB

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...G8VnDTpRauzrDtnaKDFhKUODR1XS9dkEaAv3uEALw_wcB

 

Even those seem overpriced

 

Still cheaper than the ones that support other platforms

 

Yup, all forged bottom end -- got that JDM crank. My first engine build too. I did everything except the bore & decking. You'd be surprised how cautiously you approach power limits after you pop a stock motor which is probably why I hug boost thresholds closer to heart now. Stock rods will do 20 psi from 3k-4k RPM just fine on a cool night. Hell, they'll do 23 psi a handful of times. Still playing with fire on stock rods past 15 psi.

I'm not matting the skinny pedal until I build boost. I'm easing into it. IMHO, the trickiest tuning area with these motors is 2-3k RPMs. This RPM range is also where closed loop tuning transitions into open loop (if stock computer was still running the show). Until I've established the right fuel curve into lower boost from the 2k-3k RPMs, it's not going to hit as hard. There are gear dependent (remember, manual transmission) critical low boost fuel curve points that start at 2000, 2250, 2500, and 2750, before you can more easily hit WOT at 3k rpms. From personal experience: Pre-ignition exists the most at 2750 RPM on stock motors? Someone said at some point that the rods experience the most stress at this RPM range as well? I don't know if I'm imagining that or not.

Oh, I went with premium fuel cause I thought I got better gas mileage. Kidding, but you broke it down and conceptualized it well.

 

@garetcurry What's your ignition map look like, been wondering how conservative I'm being

 

I never noticed open loop triggering at an RPM threshold - it was either cold engine or WOT - but I could be wrong. I just got fed up mainly because I could never get my piggyback to be useful since I was always in boost without WOT, so the ECU would start correcting away from my enrichment.

I have had to retard extra timing in the 2500-4000 range due to ping. I know that's stock engine peak torque area so probably not a coincidence. As far as pre-ign, I suppose if that's also where it runs hottest that would make sense

 

Here's my maps so far.

Everything is a work in progress: I am not responsible for any damage caused by ... etcetera. Last thing I was working on was idle control because the recent 20 degree drop in temps and rain around here made my idle tune go crazy.

My dirty secret is that I took a 2JZGTE base ignition map from Haltech, looked at y'alls stuff, then dug around the internet and came up with what I have now. In fact, a lot of the things I did started with "modeling" like the base 2JZGTE maps. I just look at the numbers and come up with whatever fits the pattern. Haha... have fun.

Open loop transition was around 2700 RPMs when I was piggy backing w/the AEM FIC-6. Depending on what piggyback you were using... and if it was MAF based tuning... that probably would have been the issue. Anyway, having a Haltech is much better.

 

You're just a tad more retarded than me






Sorry, couldn't resist lmao






Actually, you're mostly running more advanced than me up until 16psi

 

A bit braver than mine, but pretty similar at the top. If I only had on-road to worry about I'd love to push the lower end a bit more.

 

I'm also 9:1 compression, so I can be brave. Right?

 

Sure helps that's fo sho. I'd love to see your E85 ign map if you get to it haha. We have E85 here and my curiosity may get the better of me, worked a charm in a 300zx we tuned and in my 135i.

 

This is might be a dumb question, but for the analog voltage inputs is it ok to supply 12v to those inputs?
In NSP it says max of 5v as switch on voltage. Couldn't find an answer online anywhere.

Tying A15 to my winch power solenoid switch to trigger an idle up condition

 

I'd say you're good, just make sure it is control side of the winch, I'd use a relay to pull a pin to ground if it was me personally as I like a layer of isolation from potential high current items but if it was on the control side that's a moot point and it'll be fine.

 

Ah missed that. Sweet.
I'm pulling from the output of a switch in the cab that just goes to the positive switching terminal on the isolation relay. The relay's max switching current is stated to be less than 1amp
Is that what you mean by control side?

 

Yeah you're good then, long as you aren't triggering from the output of the contactor.

 

Lol no ya that would fry it forsure. All 500 amps or whatever it draws at max load