1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

It's not ever supposed to be low enough with the tensioner installed to contact that

 

Well damn, guess that clears things up

 

This is what the factory Cam/Crank splice looks like on a 2001 Toyota Tacoma S-Runner going through the firewall on the passenger side (green wire). Mine had black vinyl electrical tape on it, not sure if someone had been here before.


I cut the splice, soldered long green wire leads, fished them through the firewall, then soldered them to the Haltech harness (not pictured).

I removed the software Level 2 filter from the Camshaft (Home) setup and I can rev to 6K no problem. Before I had a level 2 filter and it wouldn't "bounce" off the rev limit, but would violently snap back 500 RPM and sometimes produce a code for Home (Cam). Now she bounces with little "pu-pu-pu-pu-pu-pfvvvveeewww" sounds.

Given the data from other users and now personal experience, I'm going have to say separating the factory Toyota wire harness spliced Cam/Crank grounds is a MUST for this Haltech install.

 

So you're using 4 haltech pins for these now?

 

Yes.

It was wired where the Crank and Cam were spliced together at the Haltech harness AND the factory harness. Now Crank and Cam have their own separate ground all the way to the sensor.

I did a continuity check (ohm'ed) the wires after eliminating all splices and they all checked out as individual home runs.

 

Gotcha. I wonder why I'm the only one without these issues.. I used to actually get the Cam CEL when I had the Split Second piggyback so I would have assumed I'd have the issues more than anyone else.

I do still have starting issues again now that it's hotter.. probably too rich again. Might add an IAT axis to the crank fuel table.

 

It starts at least a half a second sooner now... I'm not imagining this. I would think it's synchronizing better now.

 

They're reserved pins anyway, cannot repurpose them in the software so might as well use em as intended/instructed.

 

Ah, ok, hadn't even looked

 

Yeah, I wish you could reuse them for other stuff but I kinda get why you can't, it's all noise isolated and cause its important and serves three different types of sensor it has special filter circuitry. Still a shame it eats up 4 pins on every ECU. And for VR sensors like ours we are supposed to use both the CAM+ and CAM-

 

Yeah, I thought I had to reassign mine and looked around for a while before realizing they are hard wired.

Here's the Haltech side of the wiring.

 

So incase anyone was interested. There's another Haltech compatible 2" gauge on the market and oddly enough it's from Banks.

 

Speaking of, I've been prototyping some of the 3D printed modules I was talking about (printer finally arrived Saturday).. Just having some trouble with tolerances on the edges/getting them to interlock.
So, it's coming along, just slowly

 

I like the literal lock together design

 

over $100 cheaper too!

 

Okay one more option for consideration, you'll need translation on for this one.

https://www.canchecked.de/produkte/

They offer a 2" gauge (with WiFi and a remote knob to control it) but they also offer a ton of other size displays for integration into car panels and gauge clusters which is really neat. They all seem to work with WiFi and the knob deal too so you aren't losing control of it if you do put it in a gauge cluster or something. The MFD15 model even adds extra I/O by appearing as a screen and I/O extender box on the CAN network, so you could wire in your oil pressure or whatever to the screen and use it in the ECU.

This guy replaced the stock temp sender location in his dash with it, since the display can switch between temp and other values and still alert with an alarm on temp he didn't really lose anything.

 

If you guys want something like that, that'd actually be easier than what I'm trying to do now. Then I don't have to hide anything. You just throw everything behind the dash.

 

You might find some folks would like some panels to integrate, everyone has their own style they're going for. I'm lazy and just going to replace the whole ass cluster...

There is a Tacoma cluster blank and the company that makes it will recess and add mounting holes for any of the major popular displays, this one is for the IC7



They do give you the option of a left/right or both 52mm pod hole too but I can't think of what I'd want really so might leave it out since I can drill a hole myself easy enough

 

So I was leaning towards buying a set of knock ears, then I saw a how to video on YouTube.

Fairly easy and much cheaper.

I did it a little different, but the main idea is still there.

I cut a knock plug off an old harness and soldered each wire to some shielded cable, including the sheild wire. You will definitely want to ground the sheild, noticeable difference in noise.
Then soldered the two signal wires to L and R of the headphone jack. The wires were too small off the jack for me to work with. Just pluck them and go right to the jack and save some time. Then added a wire from the sheild braid and a ground terminal.

Plugged it all in on a test engine. Tapped the block very gently and could easily hear it. Here is were I tested the ground and it definitely makes a difference.

So i unplugged my knock harness on the working truck and hooked this up. You can definitely hear all the clattering the engine makes. I was able to induce knock by putting it in 3rd or 4th gear going about 5 mph or so. Higher rpms it gets very noisy with all the normal engine noise. Will play with this more later.

Maybe one of you smart guys can figure out a noise filter or frequency isolation method.

Couple pics during proof of concept.

 

You mean like the Haltech has?